Mauser Rat
New member
I originally posted this in the Revolver Forum but was looking through here today and saw a largely different group of posters and so I thought that I would repeat it here and apologize if this offends anyone:
I don't know if anybody else has problems with the spring loaded, stock rear sight on their Redhawk losing the sighting adjustment when they holster it?
It's frustrating because that Redhawk can shoot the nuts off a gnat at 50 yards UNTIL that rear sight gets "compressed" in the holster and wanders off of where I had it zeroed in. I tried Locktite but it pulled the sight down against the spring as it dried and I shot a couple of holes in the moon until I got it re-zeroed (really....just look up there and you can see them
).
I know that I am going to hit myself in the forehead and yell "Doh!" when somebody tells me the solution but...is it just me? I don't need that spring adjustment in the field as I am always shooting in the 25 to 150-ish yard range and I make those adjustments in my head and NOT on the rear sight.
Is there an "obvious" solution that my elderly, partially solidified brain has overlooked?
And a reply that I added later:
And btw, I should have said originally that the Redhawk is in .44 mag and I put a lot of brass down range in it because I love the feel of that Redhawk and I spend a lot of time developing new, heavy rounds for large game. Even the recoil of the Redhawk spitting 300+ grain loads over H110 or Bullseye can affect the adjustment of the spring in question.
Thanks Arizona Redhawk. A shim was my first thought but it is the shape of the shim that is a problem. If you have a rear sight like mine you will see that the spring-loaded adjustment screw is right in the middle of the opening. That means that the best shim would be "U" shaped and that is what I have been looking for. If necessary, I will make one from some scrape steel of the correct thickness but I had hoped that there might be an "obvious" solution that I had missed that required less machinery, cutting oil and shim material about 12 ga. thick.
JohnKSa, thanks to you as well. I may try the threadlocker again with some temporary shims in place that will keep the rear sight in place while the threadlocker dries. The biggest problem is that one needs to be at the range and be SURE that the rear sight is where I want it BEFORE applying the threadlock. Then apply the threadlock in the field and support the Redhawk back home without affecting the field setting until it dries. Doable but, as I said above, I figured that there was one of those "obvious" solutions that everyone else had used and I could just give them a good laugh while they told me about the magic fix that everyone in the world knows about except me?
Maybe I will simply do the un-manly thing and contact Ruger and see what THEY had in mind when they put that weenie little spring in a place that you have to worry about every time you put the weapon down - not just when it goes in the holster? Perhaps there is a Ruger part #littlespringthingfixer that they will sell to me after I submit the proper paperwork.
I don't know if anybody else has problems with the spring loaded, stock rear sight on their Redhawk losing the sighting adjustment when they holster it?
It's frustrating because that Redhawk can shoot the nuts off a gnat at 50 yards UNTIL that rear sight gets "compressed" in the holster and wanders off of where I had it zeroed in. I tried Locktite but it pulled the sight down against the spring as it dried and I shot a couple of holes in the moon until I got it re-zeroed (really....just look up there and you can see them
).I know that I am going to hit myself in the forehead and yell "Doh!" when somebody tells me the solution but...is it just me? I don't need that spring adjustment in the field as I am always shooting in the 25 to 150-ish yard range and I make those adjustments in my head and NOT on the rear sight.
Is there an "obvious" solution that my elderly, partially solidified brain has overlooked?
And a reply that I added later:
And btw, I should have said originally that the Redhawk is in .44 mag and I put a lot of brass down range in it because I love the feel of that Redhawk and I spend a lot of time developing new, heavy rounds for large game. Even the recoil of the Redhawk spitting 300+ grain loads over H110 or Bullseye can affect the adjustment of the spring in question.
Thanks Arizona Redhawk. A shim was my first thought but it is the shape of the shim that is a problem. If you have a rear sight like mine you will see that the spring-loaded adjustment screw is right in the middle of the opening. That means that the best shim would be "U" shaped and that is what I have been looking for. If necessary, I will make one from some scrape steel of the correct thickness but I had hoped that there might be an "obvious" solution that I had missed that required less machinery, cutting oil and shim material about 12 ga. thick.
JohnKSa, thanks to you as well. I may try the threadlocker again with some temporary shims in place that will keep the rear sight in place while the threadlocker dries. The biggest problem is that one needs to be at the range and be SURE that the rear sight is where I want it BEFORE applying the threadlock. Then apply the threadlock in the field and support the Redhawk back home without affecting the field setting until it dries. Doable but, as I said above, I figured that there was one of those "obvious" solutions that everyone else had used and I could just give them a good laugh while they told me about the magic fix that everyone in the world knows about except me?
Maybe I will simply do the un-manly thing and contact Ruger and see what THEY had in mind when they put that weenie little spring in a place that you have to worry about every time you put the weapon down - not just when it goes in the holster? Perhaps there is a Ruger part #littlespringthingfixer that they will sell to me after I submit the proper paperwork.
