problems with rifled mossberg 500 with a 3by9by40 scope

R

Rem1187

New member
Hi evreyone, Sorry if this is a newbie question.

I posted a thread similar to this a little earlier 2 days ago. I havent yet got my mossy zeroed. The groups were fine but I just couldnt move them to where they should be TFL member mtn boomer suggested using a lower power scope instead of the 3by9 because of something having to do with the parallex position. Can you guys explain this parallex thing more to me and tell me whats wrong with a bushnell 3by9 on my gun except the fact that you really don't need that much power, I like powerfull magnification thats why i opted for this scope. I know its a shotgun but the average shot where i hunt ranges from 50-13yds so more magnification isnt bad. What kind of groups should i expect out of my gun I have had 2 inches at 50 yds.I use Remington Coper solids.



By the way what kind of groups do you guys shoot with your mossy slug guns as well as your other slug guns.

Thanks for all inputs!
 
Two inches at 50 is not real bad. If you can't bring it to center target you already know you have a scope problem. At 50 yards you don't need 9 power. Try a lower power scope.
 
If you can't move the group to your point of aim it sounds like using what is basically a rifle scope, you are out of windage and/or elevation adjustment. Slugs aren't known for their FLAT trajectories so it is possible you can't get enough adjustment. You could try to shim the front or rear rings to give you some added verticle adjustment. I my opinion a 3X to 9x just isn't a shotgun scope. Even at 3X and a der jumps up at 40 yards, all you are going to see if a lot of deer hide. I use a 1.5X to 6X on my 2 slug guns and actually never found the need around here to go avove 2X. There are scopes made by all manufacturers expressly for shootin slugs, they will be parralex free at 50 to 100 yards, but will work at most any range. Some of them offer more internal adjustment and possibly might be made a little tougher to withstand the pounding a slug gun produces. I too use copper solids and find them accurate in both of my guns. I also have had great luck with Hornady and Lightfields as well. Try a couple of diferent brands, your gun my like something else a little better. Good Luck
 
Thanks guys

Ruger its intersting that you bring up the adjustment thing because the reason that i cant get it zeroed is because im running out of eindage and elevation the adgustment knobs on the scope wont turn any more. However i was zeroing at 9 power. Could zeroing at 3 power possibly help. Im sorry if i confused you guys but my hunting range is actually 50-130yds not 13. Im really out of ideas and on alow budget so getting another scope isnt an option so all feedback is higly appreciated.

Thanks agin for all input.
Rem1187
 
Loosen the rings and move the the scope in the direction it needs to move, hold tension on it and retighten. It might give you enough to get on target. You can also shim it to change elevation. At 50 yards try zeroing a 3 power.
 
I can totally understand the budget thing. You don't say if it is windage or elevation adjustments you have run out of. I would re set the controls to "zero" in case the previous shooter has used up a lot of adjustments prior to you and you are trying to correct your shots with a scope that is already overadjusted in one direction or the other. If you can't zero the gun with the available adjustments, shimming may be your only option, elevation is pretty simple, windage gets a little more difficult. You can shim for elevation without too much problem, but for windage, assuming a "Weaver" type mount, I remove some of the metal on the ring bases to compensate. You also might want to check and make sure the bases are the "right" ones.
 
Thanks again guys!!

It is actually windage that I have run out off. I am new to scopes so I would be greatfull if you could explain what shimming is ang if a gunsmith should do it. My scope is new and when I bought the gun it was boresighted for 50 yards. The guy said that it should be dead on. Right know at 50 yards it is shooting about 10 inches right and I cant move it to the left because im out of windage. I think within the next month Ill have a experienced friend try to zero it at 3 power. Once again if you could tell me what shimming is Id be very greatfull. After spending 100+ on sabots with bad results and missing an 8 point buck all feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again
Rem 1187
 
Thanks again guys!!

It is actually windage that I have run out off. I am new to scopes so I would be greatfull if you could explain what shimming is ang if a gunsmith should do it. My scope is new and when I bought the gun it was boresighted for 50 yards. The guy said that it should be dead on. Right know at 50 yards it is shooting about 10 inches right and I cant move it to the left because im out of windage. I think within the next month Ill have a experienced friend try to zero it at 3 power. Once again if you could tell me what shimming is Id be very greatfull. After spending 100+ on sabots with bad results and missing an 8 point buck all feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again
Rem 1187
 
Shiming is simple. buy or make shims out of thin brass or aluminium flashing or what ever you can find that is fairly thin. Not knowing what mounts and bases you have I cannot tell you for sure what will work but I will assume you have Weaver type stuff. If you need elevation you would place shims under the front base to raise the elevation. Hope this helps
 
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