Priming pin jam

C

cdoc42

New member
In 44 years I've never had this happen. I have a custom-made 6mm PPC, purchased in 2006, with which I have fired no more than 500 rounds. I've resized the same Norma cases without difficulty. Until today.

I resized cases as usual, then had a case that would not eject from my RCBS Rock Chukar. Traced it to a priming pin that was stuck in the primer pocket hole. It had been pulled out of the die. I removed it from the case, re-inserted it into the die, tightened it with as much torque as I could. Several cases were resized without difficulty, then it happened again, and again. The pin is extended 0.1875" from the end of the die as instructed. I reduced it sequentially until it would not deprime the case, then slowly extended it. But as soon as it was long enough to enter and exit the pocket hole, it got stuck.

My 6PPC die is a Forster, and I have resized these cases since 2006 without a problem. I changed the pin, using a small pin from a .223 die. No difference, but realistically, they are the same RCBS small primer pins.

Finally, I used a Dremel tool to reduce the pin diameter and that solved the problem.

Is it possible that the primer pocket hole constricted in diameter with repetitive firings? Cleaning the pocket made no difference, so it was not from carbon residue.
 
It may be a worn primer assembly. My piggyback was jamming up and the plastic bushing was allowing the primer rod to drop down too far under spring pressure and jam the feed mechanism. RCBS will send you a new stem if it won't hold the pin anymore.
 
hounddawg, that sounds like the problem. I wondered if the holes were smaller, and maybe I lost the original pin from the Forster die and replaced it with a larger "small" pin.

Is there any requirement that the flash hole needs to be so small in those calibers such that I should not enlarge them?
 
Small point of terminology,

If it pushes fired primers out,
Its a De-priming pin, almost always referred to as a Decapping pin.

if it pushes new primers in,
Its a Primer seating stem or seating punch

Many dies use a straight pin held in place by a collet type system. These can loosen, or if the pin binds, can let the pin be pulled out. It happens.

My old Lyman dies use a headed pin, held in by a threaded cap. They can bend, they can break, but they never pull out...

Some years back I switched over to hand decapping about everything, using the Lee punch, base, and a hammer. This is intended for military crimped primers but works just fine on everything. It's slow, labor intensive and abit dirty, its "primitive" but it allows you to feel for the flash hole and know if its off center, or too tight. Plus, it lets me hit things, which is a bit of stress release in its own right. :D
 
Thanks for the links, guys, my order will shortly be on its way. Good thing I didn't start drilling them out.

44AMP, funny you should mention it, in my "stuff" I found 3 headed pins that you described and I think one day in the past I bought them by accident because I never had any Lyman dies.
 
I ordered 3 pins from Forster but the cost jumped to almost $4 each because the shipping cost doubled the actual cost of the pins........amazing.
 
hounddawg said:
The standard dimension for Lapua 220 Russian and 6mmBR flash holes is 1.5mm or .0590″. whereas the .223 standard flash hole size is .080. Sinclair sells flash hole reamers for both sizes

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...sku749005418-36020-68910.aspx?sku=749-005-418
Click to expand...
I like the looks of this tool. I just posted about possibly drilling out the flash holes on some Lapua 6.5x55 brass and am curious if this would also work for this purpose? I’d rather just enlarge the flash holes and use all my regular dies as opposed to getting a special decapping die just for this brass.
 
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