Primer pocket uniforming options

T

turtlehead

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I have the other operations squared away with a Dillon Super Swage and a Giraud Tri-Way trimmer. My brass is cleaned with the FART so the primer pockets are spotless. So that leaves me with uniforming...

I'm processing about 500 pieces of .223 each month and about 1 in 10 primers aren't seating to the correct depth. Am priming on a 550B.

I'm open to something like the Lyman prep center but wonder if there's something simpler.

Thanks in advance!
 
FA primer pocket tools

I bought a pack of Franklin Arsenal pack of 2 primer pocket uniformers (large and small primer) and 2 crimp removers (large and small) from Sportsmen's Warehouse for about $30 or so. It is threaded for a standard Lyman or RCBS handle, but I put it on my electric screwdriver and it works well for far less money than a case prep center. I will also add that the Lyman EZ trimmer also works well with the same electric screwdtiver.
 
Between the 550 and the Giraud, it sounds like production is your objective. The Dillon Super Swage is the fastest way to get primer pocket diameters uniform, and that step make seating easier. Pocket depth is another matter. I've got a good Neil Jones tool for this that I got years ago, but the issue for me is the full spec depth of large primer pockets is 0.132" and for small is 0.123", but the minimum height for large primers is also 0.123" and for small is 0.115". You are looking at 0.009" and 0.008" difference, so the standard practice of seating the primer 0.004-0.005" below flush with the case head doesn't get the anvils to the bottom of the primer pocket in either case. The maximum height small primer works with that, and the maximum large primer works at flush. So, here's the thing, if you want to seat below flush, especially important in a self-loader, and you want to seat at least 0.002" below where the primer anvils touch down in the pocket in order to set the priming mix bridge, then you probably owe it to yourself to measure your primers and your primer pocket and try to cut the bottom to get the desired bridge set at the desired recess.
 
UN , I have the same issue with my Lyman primer pocket uniformer . It cuts them way to deep and makes me think I wasted my money . For me cutting just a little then measuring does not seem worth the time and effort . So I've been looking into other tools/brands .

These Hornady ones look to be adjustable and are on my short list of next tools to buy .

Large
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6C4D...UTF8&colid=TMARKPBK339L&coliid=I1B26AWAFQQYUF

Small
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6C3T...UTF8&colid=TMARKPBK339L&coliid=I2M4R2YJADH81N
 
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I'm inclined to measure a sample from my brass lot and get the extreme spread for, say, thirty of them, then call the deepest one maximum and aim for cutting them all to that depth. Shim washers set the cutter height, but that Hornady collar looks like it would work. I've got lots of primers that are tall and short and in between, so I can pick an appropriate lot. The primer seater on the Forster Co-ax press pushes them 0.005" below flush with the head, so I look for a combination for which that will compress the primer about 0.003".

Mind you, this is a lot of fuss and done only for match loads. Priming on the Dillon is not as easily set (though you can set the 1050 up for uniformed primer pockets pretty exactly), and you may have to make adjustments to get it right. If I load for the Garand or M1A on it, I usually size and then trim on my Giraud and prime on the coax, then run them the rest of the way through the 550B.
 
about 1 in 10 primers aren't seating to the correct depth
Click to expand...

You don't say, but I assume the primers are high.

I uniform all my primer pockets with the Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer link.

What I like about it is that it is made from solid carbide and is fixed in the cut depth. No collar to slip. Lasts for tens of thousands of cases. I seat all my primers by feel on a hand primer.

With all the previous discussion on variable primer height, variable cut depth, variable primer seating below flush, etc., I guess I try to simplify it somewhat. Once I started uniforming pockets it was quite a learning. Some pockets are very rounded at the bottom and you remove a lot of material. Some not so much. But once they are uniformed, you will never have a high primer again. And when I look at the variability of case sizing (case head to datum line length) and firing pin protrusion, I can't worry too much if a primer is 0.003" below flush or 0.008" below flush. I'm satisfied with the preload I set with the hand primer.
 
I had primer pocket size problems for decades. But not any more since I purchased the Redding primer pocket uniformer.
Use it one time and forget about it. It cuts sides and depth just perfect.

I'm sure you can use it automated. Look for it at the Redding sight.
 
I personally like an adjustable primer pocket uniformer. I want all my cutters to be adjustable. As you may know that large rifle and large pistol primer pockets have different depths. For small rifle and small pistol they are the same depths. Of course the depths may vary some between brass and primers. I recommend the K&M adjustable tool in large rifle and small.
http://kmshooting.com/primer-tools/...arge-rifle-primer-pocket-correction-tool.html
Most of the time with commercial and military brass if you cut to perfectly clean up the pocket bottom then primers will or may seat too deep. Just try the cutter in every case and most often it won't cut at all or only cuts if the pocket bottom is not square or has a high spot. Also, not familiar with the Dillon press but I've read you have to be positive on every press handle stroke and not light pressure on one stroke and heavier on the next???
http://kmshooting.com/small-pistol-rifle-primer-pocket-correction-tool.html
 
I'm going to give the KM tool a try that rg1 suggested. Am only using small rifle and pistol primers for now and the bit appears to be adjustable. Maybe rg1 can comment on that.
 
K&M tools are top quality but slightly expensive. All the other tools mentioned are great too but I do prefer an adjustable tool. I even have the K&M 50 BMG primer pocket uniformer. I use my dewalt drill-driver. I adjust the cutting depth 2 ways. I measure between the cutter and the positive stop with my calipers, and most often just very lightly tighten the set screw and insert the cutter in a primer pocket and push down then lock the set screw. Don't try to cut a perfect bottom or probably you'll be too deep. You still only want your primers about .003" to maximum .005" below flush. The carbide cutter of the uniformer makes the best tool for removing fired primer pocket debris. Just a turn knocks most of the debris loose. You only need to use the uniformer once on pockets but next time just a turn with your fingers is all you need to remove primer debris. My small primer uniformer is set and I don't move it, it stays set at the same depth. The large pistol and rifle I move the cutter in and out. I find some brass has a radius at the pocket bottom which can make a primer not seat deep enough. The cutter sometimes only cuts out some of the radius and doesn't touch the pocket bottom? The K&M does have a set screw that locks the cutter in place. My cutters don't slip or move. You can see the set screw on the top flat in the pictures especially if you zoom in. I recommend buying the accessory handle for the uniformer. It's easy to uniform by hand. Or you may already have some screwdriver handles that accept these 5/16 tool bits.
http://kmshooting.com/primer-tools/primer-pocket-correction.html
 
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The K&M tool is on the way.

Thank you rg1 and everyone else for the education. I'm happy you folks talked me into this hobby. It's a lot of fun. :)
 
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