Fatal Wound
New member
Anyone recommend a wire brush type primer pocket brush? Thanks
Primer pocket brush
- Thread starter Fatal Wound
- Start date
condor bravo
New member
No I wouldn't recommended a wire brush at all but for cleaning primer pockets what I would highly recommend is the Redding primer pocket depth uniformer. While you may not need it for primer pocket depth, it serves as an excellent primer pocket cleaner by chucking it into an electric drill. Get the Redding brand since it is non adjustable and set to the exact primer pocket depth (maybe you will have some need for cutting primer pockets to exact depth if needed--especially if you happen to load .30-06s for the Garand). This item is available from MidwayUSA at $31.
The one in my RCBS starter kit lasted for nearly three decades. Of course, when I replaced it (with another RCBS), I only then realized how wore out my old one was 
Only a few months after that however, I switched to SS pin tumbling - so no more primer pocket cleaning by hand. I enjoy brass reconditioning as much as anybody I know, but I don't miss that step.
Only a few months after that however, I switched to SS pin tumbling - so no more primer pocket cleaning by hand. I enjoy brass reconditioning as much as anybody I know, but I don't miss that step.
Magnum Wheel Man
New member
I have a set of RCBS brushes in my case prep center, but hope to never use them again... I'm also wet tumbling... I was personally worrying about removing too much material over time with the brushes, if I cleaned the primer pockets every reload ( OCD ya know 
)... I'm much happier with the stainless pins
)... I'm much happier with the stainless pinsRegarding Redding's pocket tool, are all primers made to the same pellet, cup and anvil dimension so for some seating depth amount, they all will detonate uniformly? If so what is the seating depth amount and its reference?
What's special about seating primers for Garands compared to other rifles?
What's special about seating primers for Garands compared to other rifles?
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I've used the large and small RCBS brush set for over 30 year. If I'm lazy and have lots of case I chuck it up in a cordless drill on low speed,most time I just used the supplied handle.
Primers depending on the size and brand all have slightly different cup thicknesses,cup dimensions as well as cup height. In the majority of instances if you seat the primer fully into the bottom of the primer pocket you want have any ignition issues as well as more consistent ignition shot to shot.
In the case of the Garand,SKS or other rifles which have free floating firing pins,when the bolt slams forward and closes the firing pin which is not held in retention by a spring continues to travel forward and will strike the primer and in some instances cause a small dimple or indention. If the primer is not seated correctly ie high in the pocket or slightly below flush the firing pin strike can cause a slamfire. You can also get a slamfire from using a primer with a cup material that is to soft. Some primers have hard cup and some have soft cups,each primer mfg. generally has a primer they recommend for use in rifle with free floating firing pins that are either hard enough to withstand the firing pin strike or they are less sensitive to the firing pin strike.
Regardless of the type primer you use in rifles with free floating firing pins you should never drop the bolt on a chambered rd. always let the bolt strip the rds from the magazine to help minimize the bolt speed as it closes which in turn slows down the inertia of the firing pin.
Here are some examples of bolt drop test I did with primed rds. only to check for primer sensitivity to firing pin strikes. Guess which one I'm not using.
Primers depending on the size and brand all have slightly different cup thicknesses,cup dimensions as well as cup height. In the majority of instances if you seat the primer fully into the bottom of the primer pocket you want have any ignition issues as well as more consistent ignition shot to shot.
In the case of the Garand,SKS or other rifles which have free floating firing pins,when the bolt slams forward and closes the firing pin which is not held in retention by a spring continues to travel forward and will strike the primer and in some instances cause a small dimple or indention. If the primer is not seated correctly ie high in the pocket or slightly below flush the firing pin strike can cause a slamfire. You can also get a slamfire from using a primer with a cup material that is to soft. Some primers have hard cup and some have soft cups,each primer mfg. generally has a primer they recommend for use in rifle with free floating firing pins that are either hard enough to withstand the firing pin strike or they are less sensitive to the firing pin strike.
Regardless of the type primer you use in rifles with free floating firing pins you should never drop the bolt on a chambered rd. always let the bolt strip the rds from the magazine to help minimize the bolt speed as it closes which in turn slows down the inertia of the firing pin.
Here are some examples of bolt drop test I did with primed rds. only to check for primer sensitivity to firing pin strikes. Guess which one I'm not using.
condor bravo
New member
The idea behind the Redding primer pocket depth tool is to be able to cut, if necessary, the primer pocket to its maximum specified depth to require the firing pin on free floating firing pin rifles to travel full distance before contacting the primer. Striking with less force upon chambering a round reduces the chances of a slamfire when the bolt closes. Note that some tools are said to be adjustable which throws the depth setting off with no way to really return the cutting depth to its exact proper setting. The Redding tool is non-adjustable.
I use a lee primer pocket tool and a Dremel 537 brass end brush at low speed. works like a champ. I have been using the same brush for about 2500 rounds.