Pre-64 Winchester M70

How different is the pre-64 winchester from the current model 70?

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Ben Lee
Student, Senior
Computer Science
Mississippi State University
Heed the man that owns only one rifle,
he likely knows how to use it.
- Anonymous
 
Ben, You could go for your PhD on this one!
It's not going to get answered here. Your question should be "How different is the pre-64 winchester from the post 64 model
The current model "Classic" has gone back to some of the features of the Pre version.
Short answer, Winchester decided to do some cost cutting on the 95's that did not sit well with the fans of the rifle.

[This message has been edited by HankL (edited October 09, 2000).]
 
Ben,

The current M-70 Classic and the pre-64 M-70 have several differences, although not as many as either of them have with the push-feed model.

The M-70 Classic has some of the features of the push feed M-70 such as the anti-bind cut on one of the locking lugs. The pre-64 used a guide rail on the bolt body to prevent binding.

The M-70 Classic action is a little longer than the pre-64 action enabling it to handle full length magnums without releaving the receiver ring. The M-70 Classic will handle escaped gas a little better than the pre-64 will.

In my opinion, the metal to metal fit on the pre-64 M-70 is better than the Classic action. The stocks on the Classics are light years ahead of the pre-64's in terms of fitting the shooter and overall finish. In most cases, a Classic should be more accurate than a pre-64 due to better barrels.

I do prefer the pre-64's over the Classics even if the Classic is a better rifle in most regards. I also prefer a 1969 Z-28 Camaro over a 2000 Z-28 even if it isn't as fast or handle as well. It must be a feeling of history or nostalgia I guess.
 
Cactus, a 427 or 454 will fit right into that Camaro. The only interference is that if you have to pull the left valve cover, the windshield-wiper motor is in the way--but that's easy.

With one of these new-fangled five- or six-speed transmissions, you oughta be able to run 180-plus with little difficulty. Great gas mileage at 80, too...

:), Art
 
I concur with Cactus on some of this. I think the workmanship was better on the early stuff, as opposed to the stamped out factro stuff now. The comment about the metal to metal fight I agree with. I think to fully understand the differences between the pre and post 64, you've got to also pay attention to the cosmetic details (more than one can probably count). You can check out some photos on my web page if you want. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=993029&a=7436828 I have picutes of 4 different Model 70's, 2 pre 64 and 2 post 64 featherweights.

I'd also recommend a couple books for your research. Winchester, An American Legend by R.L. Wilson and The Rifleman's Rifle by Roger Rule both have insight into these guns.

Good luck

Snake
 
MississippiRifleman:

THE standard ref's on the Pre-64 are Rule's RIFLEMAN's RIFLE (now back in print) and Whitaker's THE WINCHESTER MODEL 70 (out of print). Both will show you the technical differences between the Pre-64 and the current CRF Model 70's.

The REAL difference between the two rifles is something that you'll have to experience by comparing the two in your own hands. The optimal pre-64's were made prior to 53 or so before machinery was wearing and costs became a problem and quality control lapsed over the last years.)

Personally, I find a major difference in quality in the older weapons and have seem and heard of too many current iterations with feeding problems, gross tool marks, bolt faces apparently fit with cold chisels, etc. Owners of the current 70 and many of the gunwriters will tell you the new iteration is THE best yet. Opinions and orifices, you know......

Check the older ones out before you make a decision--if you want a hunting rifle that you and your grandchildren (assuming the politicians of the clintonista ilk don't ban them all by then) can be proud of, a nice piece that is a bit below the grade optimally desired by collectors can be had at a reasonable price. A little professional work on bedding, trigger adjustment, oil finishing the stock, perhaps adding a Decelerator pad if the calibre requires it, produces a really optimal hunting rifle that puts most other factory efforts to shame.
 
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