I have loaded powder into my Hornady LNL ap powder measure about 7 to 10 times and still have static cling when I go to empty it. I wiped it down inside and out with a dryer sheet, put powdered graphite through it. What else can I do ? When I empty it I pour the powder back into the jug and then work the action a few times and the rest comes out. But why does it still have static ?
powder measure problem ?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
Rebs, I do not know, I can not create static electric near or around my scales or powder systems. There was a thread on a forum that went for miles and miles. The OP decided the accident was caused by someone else or static electricity. I was of the opinion he dropped a tube of primers and made the mistake of trying to catch the tube out of panic. To me it looked as thought he folded the tube and crushed the primers at the fold. I believe I called his attempt at catching the tube as a ‘Ki-rack’ chop. He did prove primers can be dangerous.
And as usual someone ask if the primers were Federal; the ones that come in the large box.
F. Guffey
And as usual someone ask if the primers were Federal; the ones that come in the large box.
F. Guffey
polyphemus
New member
If you are having an issue with static charges then you should ground yourself,
there are a number of solutions for this,mats,wrist straps.Friction is the common cause of static,your handling of the equipment in a very dry environment is likely it,I'd wear an anti static strap.
there are a number of solutions for this,mats,wrist straps.Friction is the common cause of static,your handling of the equipment in a very dry environment is likely it,I'd wear an anti static strap.
You can also cut a strip of aluminum foil, apply spray adhesive to the back, then stick it on vertically up the inside of the hopper and down the outside to the metal casting. Then take one of the cheap wrist straps to ground it with (Amazon had some for, like, $3 last time I looked, but that was awhile ago). The wrist strap has a built-in high resistance that bleeds charges off to whatever you ground it too, so it doesn't spark.
If you want to go old school, drill holes for a dozen straight pins (the sewing kind) into the lid, set them in place and apply conductive copper tape to them that touches that aluminum strip on the inside of the hopper when you close the lid. The charge in the hopper and on the press will be conducted to the sharp tips of the pins and bleed off.
If you are not grounded, you can induce a static charge in the unit, so getting a wrist strap for yourself is a good idea in either case.
If you want to go old school, drill holes for a dozen straight pins (the sewing kind) into the lid, set them in place and apply conductive copper tape to them that touches that aluminum strip on the inside of the hopper when you close the lid. The charge in the hopper and on the press will be conducted to the sharp tips of the pins and bleed off.
If you are not grounded, you can induce a static charge in the unit, so getting a wrist strap for yourself is a good idea in either case.
1spottedpony
Inactive
Old school solution for static cling with things like plastic funnels is to rinse them in soapy dishwater and let them air dry.
in the case of a powder measure with a fixed hopper try giving it a wipe on the inside with a damp dishrag and let it air dry. This works for me on an old RCBS measure.
in the case of a powder measure with a fixed hopper try giving it a wipe on the inside with a damp dishrag and let it air dry. This works for me on an old RCBS measure.
How much powder clings? I have a nice C-H-502 powder measure and we have little static electricity around here (Coastal Oregon). I have to tap the sides of my measure and work the drum a few times to get rid of any lingering flakes (I use a lot of Universal, Unique, IMR 4064, some 2400, Bullseye and W231). None of the powders I use will dump every flake out cleanly". Just part of using a powder measure...
