powder cop die ?

R

rebs

New member
I want to buy a powder cop die for my new Hornady AP. I seen the Hornady and I seen the RCBS lock out powder cop die.
Which one do you guys recommend ?
 
I have just the powder cop - works well enough for me. I have no experience with the lockout die, but read a lot of people like having it and the fact that it will stop the press from moving in the event of an undercharge or double charge.
 
You don't say what caliber(s) you will be loading, but I recommend and use the RCBS lockout die for pistol loading. It's good for straight walled pistol only, though, not rifle.
 
I have both, I will not reload on a progressive press without one or the other. Not a problem but the Lock out die is designed to be used with straight wall cases and the COP powder die is designed to be used with bottle neck cases.

Then there is that other ‘no problem thing. Some of my progressive presses are 4 position meaning if I use the lock out die or the COP die I can not seat on one position and crimp on another.

F. Guffey
 
I have this one:
http://www.hornady.com/store/Control-Panel-Powder-Safeguard-Die-Pistol-Only/
it came with my control panel:
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Control-Panel

I love it. It locks the press when there is a shortage of powder and beeps. I like the control panel as well. It helps keep me honest. Warns with low powder, low primers, primer shuttle stuck back. It also counts the reloaded rounds I find this to be useless. I don't care how many I've done just how many I have to do. I think I got the whole thing for 125 if I remember correctly. I also found that in my opinion Hornady cinched out in the kit. I don't have the electric bullet or case feeder so they wanted the control panel mounted to the holes on the back of the press so it would be hidden behind the dies. I cut down a piece of wood to extend it up about 6" above the press so I can see it easily. But overall its a good kit and it does work fairly well.

Good luck on your choice.
 
They are very different in operation. The lockout die is good for detecting empty cases and double charges and does not require and operator attention.

The Powder Cop provides an actual gauge of powder level and would allow you to detect some media that had been left in the case. What I don't like about the Powder Cop is that it isn't in my normal line of vision, but with practice you can train your scan pattern without compromising your focus on the shell plate.

I don't run either with my Hornady since I have a bullet feeder and like separate seating and crimp die - no room for an additional die. With both case and bullet feeders my full attention is on the shell plate and I look at the powder level in every case.
 
The Powder Cop works fine as long as you remember to look at it. It works in rifle rounds, which is nice. I have no experience with the RCBS lockout die.

The powder cop really hasn't made much difference to me. If you mount a light strip in the press, it isn't difficult to just look inside the case. A double charge in .40 or .380 is impossible to miss when you use powders that fill the case.
 
For reloaders that want to discover something and have a few shop skills; installing a micro switch above the COP die then install wires and a battery that will allow for a light instillation. And then; there is the rheostat variable type, something like the one in the gas tank; and then again; an electrical gage can be installed.

F. Guffey
 
Thanks for the replies.
The control panel and the powder cop for it are kind of pricey at this time for me. I am thinking about the regular powder cop and train my eye to scan it every round. I do like the idea of a sensor switch and a light that would go on in the event of a problem.
 
I own both powder cop and lockout, but since using a bullet feed have no station available for a powder checker (LnL AP). I am referring only to handgun cartridge reloading.

The bullet feeder, actually a Bully adapter on the Hornady die and under the Lee four tube feeder set, is up front at station #4, where I can look in the case for powder before pulling the lever for bullet seating. The problem comes with low cc charges in tall, skinny cases. Really good light helps, but with the press on a strong mount you might be on tip toes to look down far enough into the case to see powder. The better solution is to always use powder with a high enough VMD, so the powder level is easy enough to spot. This led me to take an interest in Trailboss, AA#9, Green Dot, and HiSkor 700-x. I am actually using SR4756 in my 357 Magnum Lite, but I gather it is now out of production. I am about to load test rounds in 38 Special using Trailboss, the champ for filling cases enough to see powder.
 
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Real gun you can also use lights and mirror(s) to allow you to see into the case.

IMG_20151216_142428_797_zps87y4xzqw.jpg


Also why I prefer GSI bullet feeders because you get bullet feed, seat/crimp in two different stages and can retain the powder check but they only make them for Dillon machines.
 
Your picture appears to place the mirror at station #5. I expect it would be in the way at station #4. I have a case feeder, decap, size and prime on the press, and dedicate a station to an M-die for lead bullet loading. There is no space for a crimp-only die, let alone a powder check. When really needed, I forgo the bullet feeder, for which I only have dies in .357 and .400. Then I usually go for the powder lockout rather than the dedicated crimp die, since I only use the separate crimp on jacketed bullet diameters.
 
I just got done setting up my new Hornady LNL AP. This is a beautiful machine, I love it. I watched the video twice and read all the literature twice before starting the setup. The setup went great, the only problem is static in the powder measure. I cleaned it good with Hornady one shot gun cleaner and dry lube and wiped it all down just like in the video. I even wiped it with a fabric softener wipe. It was throwing consistent charges varying by 1/10 of a grain. But when I went to empty the powder measure there was powder that stuck all over inside the tube and down on the bottom. I wiped it again and left a static wipe in the tube.
Any other tips on getting rid of the static ?
 
Any other tips on getting rid of the static ?
Click to expand...

This stuff works like a champ. Spray some on a clean cloth and wipe down the inside of the powder hopper and let dry.

450.jpg
 
Your picture appears to place the mirror at station #5. I expect it would be in the way at station #4.
Click to expand...

Just using that as an example, it's at #4 but that is not an LNL.


Neither is this one (from GWS) but an example of how two mirrors can work if a single one won't.

IMG_1259.jpg
 
light

do you guys use the strip led light or the one that mounts on tipop and shines down through the hole in the center of the press top ?
 
I just got done setting up my new Hornady LNL AP. This is a beautiful machine, I love it. I watched the video twice and read all the literature twice before starting the setup. The setup went great, the only problem is static in the powder measure. I cleaned it good with Hornady one shot gun cleaner and dry lube and wiped it all down just like in the video. I even wiped it with a fabric softener wipe. It was throwing consistent charges varying by 1/10 of a grain. But when I went to empty the powder measure there was powder that stuck all over inside the tube and down on the bottom. I wiped it again and left a static wipe in the tube.
Any other tips on getting rid of the static ?
Click to expand...

I would not have used Hornady One Shot on any surface contacting powder. It is sticky enough to hold powder particles. You might try washing your powder hopper in Dawn and starting over with just the dryer sheet idea.

I also recently read that some are grounding their press to control static electricity.
 
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