I just don't feel like writing it all over again.
There is a tolerance of form and dimension.The size and shape the folks at Elliot or PTG or Clymer put on the reamer to tolerances in the tenths of thousandths of an inch.
A good smith or machinist gets the most important part,a good reamer tool finish.
Its a good chamber.
But some people and monkeys like shiny objects.Some make videos. Some have Dremels. Some make money selling shiny.
The microscopic texture of your chamber toolmarks is roundy round. Like screw threads.You don't take them out going roundy round.
When you sand something,do you sand the same direction with the 80 grit,the 120 grit,the 240 grit,the 400 grit,the 600grit? Or do you change directionand cross the old lines?
You go inny-out. With your fingers and a very fine stone or some brass and diamond compound.
If you want something (ammo) to go in and out easy,Inny-out lines (draw stoning) is lots better than roundy round.
And jug shaping the chamber really does not help.
Three guys sitting on a bench passing a jug of "Old Stump Blower" . Who gets drunk? Guy in the middle is double hitting.
Felt bob in a dremel,in the chamber ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. "You move it in and out,keep ing it even"
See the jugged chamber?
How do you know when to stop? You use eyes and magnification. The tool finish has peaks and valleys. You cut the peaks off,watching the valleys.Make plateaus. Mesas. But leave the bottoms of the valleys. They don't hurt anything. They are your depth gauges.
Once the valleys are gone,you are wallowing away form and dimension.
When you see a video of some guy with a dremel or foredom and a roundy-round buff or mop or whatever wotking blind in a chamer making it shiny,OK,he isn't selling you anything.He is playing monkey-see,monkey do.
Because the guys who make $3000 guns know you will feel better about the $3000 if the gun has pretty ,shiny places.
This next thing is not something I have done,but I suggest,if you must molest your chamber,take whatever magic superfine grit you want to use(I'd use about a #9 green mold polishing diamond compound)
I'd take 20 or 30 rounds of clean,shiny factory ammo,I'd roll the brass in the grit on a piece of glass.(Charge the brass with embedded abrasive) Wipe of the excess and the bullet.
Shoot the ammo.It willknock off the peaks.Make plateaus.The texture will be in the direction of draw. Sort of like fire lapping. But don't do it toa chrome bore.And no,the chrome is not shiny.
I suggest you keep power tools out of your chamber and bore,and don't believe everything on youtube.
