Polishing question again .

cw308

New member
Polishing the chamber . I've watched videos an read posts , I'm using Mother's Billet Polish by hand only . I don't think I'm changing the Chambers detention just want to shine it up . The gun work fine no issues . Would using a 45 Cal. mop with some polish on a patch to polish the chamber be a problem ?

Chris
 
Polishing the chamber of what?
A "45 Cal. mop" isn't perfectly round. It might cause a wee, tiny, small bit of out of roundness. Chambers and cylinders rarely, if ever, require or benefit from any kind of polishing anyway.
A "45 Cal. mop" is more about the size of the bore too. It does work well for removing the lube gunk ring from a .357 cylinder though.
 
T.O'Heir
The firearm is a Colt New Agent in 45ACP. I wouldn't think polishing would cause a problem but wanted to check with my posting friends. I hand polish the barrel & hood just for looks , as long as it's not going to cause any problems I would do the same for the chamber. I will stay away from the rifling. Custom guns the maker will take the time in hand fitting an polishing . I have the time so doing alittle polishing is no big deal for me . I would think the chamber would operate smoother with a polished unchanged diameter chamber, am I wrong.
 
I would think the chamber would operate smoother with a polished unchanged diameter chamber, am I wrong.

Two things jump out to me:

1) Polishing always removes material. So the diameter will be changed, if only by an inconsequential amount. Not saying this will affect function in any way - just pointing out a fact.

2) "operate smoother" - but you already say the gun works fine with no issues. I guess I just don't see the point - but to each his own.
 
Fishbed77
I didn't think polishing would remove metal only cleaned it to a shine . I wouldn't use sandpaper , I use to use JB Compound on a stock barrel saying it wouldn't harm the barrel , worked fine . I look at it this way . If you are getting scratch marks on your barrel or hood ,more metal is being removed then if you polish those parts to a point you can't see the scratches or at least to a minimum .

If polishing the chamber will or could cause a problem then I won't polish , that's my question . On a new chamber the chamber is free of defects works fine . As time goes on , fouling , scratches , what ever happens with use , problems start . I want to keep my chamber looking like brand new . Am I wrong .
 
Fact- you can not polish metal without removing metal.
If the gun works, there is no need to polish chambers-which should rarely be done, and then only by a qualified gunsmith.
Just keep the gun clean and lubed.
 
If you want to keep your chamber looking brand new, don't shoot the gun. JB Bore Brite is an abrasive compound, intended for removing fouling from barrels. As others have already stated, you can't polish anything without removing material. Will the amount removed cause a problem? Probably not, but if the gun shoots well and doesn't malfunction ... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
 
I just don't feel like writing it all over again.
There is a tolerance of form and dimension.The size and shape the folks at Elliot or PTG or Clymer put on the reamer to tolerances in the tenths of thousandths of an inch.
A good smith or machinist gets the most important part,a good reamer tool finish.
Its a good chamber.

But some people and monkeys like shiny objects.Some make videos. Some have Dremels. Some make money selling shiny.

The microscopic texture of your chamber toolmarks is roundy round. Like screw threads.You don't take them out going roundy round.
When you sand something,do you sand the same direction with the 80 grit,the 120 grit,the 240 grit,the 400 grit,the 600grit? Or do you change directionand cross the old lines?

You go inny-out. With your fingers and a very fine stone or some brass and diamond compound.
If you want something (ammo) to go in and out easy,Inny-out lines (draw stoning) is lots better than roundy round.

And jug shaping the chamber really does not help.

Three guys sitting on a bench passing a jug of "Old Stump Blower" . Who gets drunk? Guy in the middle is double hitting.

Felt bob in a dremel,in the chamber ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. "You move it in and out,keep ing it even"

See the jugged chamber?

How do you know when to stop? You use eyes and magnification. The tool finish has peaks and valleys. You cut the peaks off,watching the valleys.Make plateaus. Mesas. But leave the bottoms of the valleys. They don't hurt anything. They are your depth gauges.

Once the valleys are gone,you are wallowing away form and dimension.

When you see a video of some guy with a dremel or foredom and a roundy-round buff or mop or whatever wotking blind in a chamer making it shiny,OK,he isn't selling you anything.He is playing monkey-see,monkey do.

Because the guys who make $3000 guns know you will feel better about the $3000 if the gun has pretty ,shiny places.

This next thing is not something I have done,but I suggest,if you must molest your chamber,take whatever magic superfine grit you want to use(I'd use about a #9 green mold polishing diamond compound)

I'd take 20 or 30 rounds of clean,shiny factory ammo,I'd roll the brass in the grit on a piece of glass.(Charge the brass with embedded abrasive) Wipe of the excess and the bullet.
Shoot the ammo.It willknock off the peaks.Make plateaus.The texture will be in the direction of draw. Sort of like fire lapping. But don't do it toa chrome bore.And no,the chrome is not shiny.

I suggest you keep power tools out of your chamber and bore,and don't believe everything on youtube.
 
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Thanks Guys for answering, I'll clean my barrel an chamber without polishing. That's why I asked. Thanks again
Chris
 
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