Playing with paint

T

taylorce1

New member
I've been working on this rifle for a neighbor kid that comes over and helps me out around the place. It's just a simple M670 Winchester in .270 Win barreled action I had . I found a used McMillan Winlite stock an spot bedded the recoil lug. Threw a Burris FFII 3-9X40 LRS (lighted ballistic plex reticle) on in Burris rings and Leupold steel Weaver bases. He wanted a camo paint job so I picked up some Krylon and gave it a go. Anyone think a 16 year old boy will have any problem with this rifles camo job?


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Oh yeah, he's going to have a real problem with that...
When he leans it up against a tree near dusk and CAN'T FIND IT AGAIN due to the great paint job! ;)

I know nothing about painting a rifle stock but that looks like a fine job to me. I would never choose camouflage on almost anything but mentoring or even just being around for a bit of shooting/hunting related time, help or advice is high quality work! :cool: So terrific job!
 
Did you rough up the stock really well and degrease with acetone or something similar? Use a good plastic specific primer and clear coat? Ive found that makes or breaks the paint job. Cool rifle id hunt it!
 
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No plastic primer, it's a.McMillan fiberglass stock that I just roughed up the old paint on. I did degrease but with rubbing alcohol as I didn't want to run into town again. I've painted several stocks so it isn't my first rodeo, just my first attempt at a tri color camouflage.
 
Krylon Camo is great for DIY. Doesn't get any easier.
The good thing about it, is if you ever get tired of it and just want something different, it can be wiped off with solvent (assuming the stock can take it) and re-done. Trade-off is durability compared to other products.

If you haven't already, I suggest multiple Matte clear coats to add protection. It's been a few years since I last did a Krylon job- but at that time they didn't make a Matte clear coat and I used a poly from a different manufacturer.
 
Looks good! Im sure he'll like it.

As was mentioned, Krylon will normally come off with a little work, assuming you didnt use their Fusion stuff on plastic.

I like Testors Military Flats. They have pretty much any color you need for any pattern, and they will also come off completely (with a little work).

I quit doing the matte lacquer final coat(s). If youre using enamels, they tend to make things "sticky" if youre not careful.

My experience has been, the paint jobs effectiveness, gets better with age and use.

Prep is important. Degreasing, and in some cases, how you handle things while you paint are probably the most important.

The most dangerous part, is doing "the first". After that, all bets are off. Addiction is a terrible thing. :D
 
I always matte/satin clear all my rattle can paint jobs.

This is the video I watched before I attempted my paint job. It was pretty easy to follow, I sprayed everything light tan first and then went over it with sage green and flat black. I wasn't sure I liked it, but it looked a lot better with the barreled action in it and in the sunlight than it did hanging under my porch.

How to paint camouflage
 
Scale says 8 lbs 7.1 oz with nylon sling and five rounds of 130 grain ammunition. I might have to keep it and find something else for the boy!

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Whom I kidding I have a 7 lbs 1 oz .30-06 and 7 lbs 14 oz .270 Win, though this .270 would probably be tamer to shoot than my 06 by quite a bit. ;)
 
Thats a cool camo, we do that quite a bit here, doesn't seem right to leave a black stock alone.
Mary on the other hand wont let me near her Weather Warrior!!:rolleyes:
 
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