Plastic v. Steel Guide Rods

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BarryLee

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I have noticed that some semi-autos come with plastic guide rods. Also, I see that several sites sell steel guide rods to replace the plastic ones. I would assume the obvious advantage of steel over plastic is strength, but are there any other advantages? For instance does the added weight help/hurt, is flexing an issue, anything else?
 
Both types have pros and cons. For example:

Many Colt Mustang (also Mustang +II, PocketLite, and Pony) owners learn the hard way, that steel guide rods are a bad idea. Many owners end up with cracked slides, shortly after installing their steel guide rod (factory part is polymer). It doesn't happen to all of the pistols, but Colt, apparently, used a polymer guide rod for a reason.
 
Alloyed frame CZ's also use polymer rods for a reason: to not destroy the frame where the base of the rod sets and moves around during cycling. Even Glocks can have issues with metal rods (although I do use metal rods in some of my Glocks). With Glocks, it is metal versus polymer. What I do with aftermarket metal rods is round out the edges of the rod base with very fine grit sand-paper to smoothen and round it out ever so slightly so as to take away the sharp carving edge of the original rod base.
 
I tried a stainless guide rod in one of my Glocks because I figured sooner or later the plastic one would wear down and sproing out the end.

I noticed no difference while shooting though. Then I got to reflecting that my Glocks over the years have shot thousands of rounds each and not one guide rod has ever failed in any measure. The Glock plastic guide rod is like $3.50 so it is cheap to keep one or two on hand just in case.

I also considered that Glock probably made it in plastic for a reason and messing with materials without a clear need and knowledge of possible consequences is not a good idea.

I went back to using OEM rods in all my Glocks and still have not had one fail. Besides, I change them periodically anyway to replace the spring, so no single guide rod is getting more than a few thousand rounds. OEM is cheaper, it works, and I can afford to replace it with the spring often as needed/wanted.
 
Seems like in most cases it makes the most sense to rely on what the manufacturer intended in the first place. There is money to made from solutions that are in search of a problem. It is like buying a recoil buffer for an SKS; at best there is no measurable difference between the "upgrade" and the weapon in its original configuration, at worse, there are adverse effects on reliability or durability.
 
I had problem with steel rod on Glock 32 with 40 cal barrel; I could not reject some rounds when cycling by hand with the round halfway in the chamber. After changing to plastic rod I had no problem.
 
All the small Colt Mustangs and variants had the plastic recoil guide rod. I carried a Colt .380 for years and never had a problem.
 
I swapped out the plastic for a metal Wolff unit in my Sigma .40 and also installed a lighter striker spring. I can't say it works any better, but it works. I stayed with a stock spring weight on the recoil spring, because the gun functioned very well with the plastic unit installed at the factory. The Wolff rod is easier to put in, however.
 
My 9VE came with a plastic rod and works like a champ.

My PT92 came with a metal rod and works like a champ.

I like to stick with factory parts on guns that work perfectly.

Just my humble opinion.
 
Yes, I have one of those Colt Mustangs and have never had an issue with the plastic guide rod.

:confused: I guess one thing that kind of confused me is that my new P229 has a plastic guide rod, but I see that SIG actually sells steel guide rods for the gun. I thought about calling them up to see what they have to say about it.

I guess I kind of agree with the general consensus that if the manufacture designed it that way it is probably OK. However, if I can make a gun more reliable for a few bucks I thought it was worth looking into.
 
I replaced the polymer guide rod on my S&W 908S with a steel part, but I never had any issues with the old rod. The steel rod does add a little bit of mass up front, which I guess would be either a good or a bad thing depending on who you ask (good for me).

IMO, it's not any different from dropping in any other after-market part. As long as you've done your homework and made sure that changing the part won't result in Very Bad Things happening to your gun, it's purely down to preference.
 
I would and do use plastic for all my firearm if one is made for it. It just seems logical to use plastic for certain parts in something like this, the guide rod has a lot of pressure being applied to it which transfer the pressure throughout the firearm. JMO.
 
I've heard of metal guide rods bending, especially in battle, when it's very likely that the user will be diving into the dirt...
 
I made the mistake of ordering an EFK "Frame Saver Dual Recoil Spring". Basically something like the captive dual recoil spring/guide rod found in the Gen4 Glocks. I thought it'd make my .40 P226 a softer shooter, but wound up with problems like FTFs, the elimination of last round slide lock, and what feels like the slide will rattle free of the frame when the gun is shook.

Long story short, something I now subscribe to is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Stupid me, I thought I knew better than one of the world's leader firearms manufacturers. :o
 
Thanks, tape.

TBH, after one range session, I just gave up on the thing. Factory spring and plastic rod work just fine. What a waste of $80. Lesson learned.
 
If you want to replace your plastic guide rod with a metal one, by all means do so, but I don't believe that you'll really see any difference in the function of the firearm.
 
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