Plastic looking finish winchester or browning
- Thread starter DonS
- Start date
Don,
That may be a polyurethane finish. They can be difficult to strip. I stripped some polyurethane finishes from Brownings and Sakos in the past, then finished them with Casey's TruOil. They looked great after sanding them down to 600 grit and applying approx 12-15 coats of TruOil with light sanding between coats. TruOil dries to a gloss finish. If you prefer a satin/egg-shell lustre, simply rub out final coat with Brownells XXX rubbing compound. If you go too far, rub with Brownells XXXXX rubbing compound to add gloss back to finish. If you rub thru the final coat, simply apply another finish coat and then rub with XXX or XXXXX.
That may be a polyurethane finish. They can be difficult to strip. I stripped some polyurethane finishes from Brownings and Sakos in the past, then finished them with Casey's TruOil. They looked great after sanding them down to 600 grit and applying approx 12-15 coats of TruOil with light sanding between coats. TruOil dries to a gloss finish. If you prefer a satin/egg-shell lustre, simply rub out final coat with Brownells XXX rubbing compound. If you go too far, rub with Brownells XXXXX rubbing compound to add gloss back to finish. If you rub thru the final coat, simply apply another finish coat and then rub with XXX or XXXXX.
I have refinished my share but only on new wood or stocks that really needed refinishing. If you want a little more luster out of your wood, why not first try a light application of rubbing compound and paste wax. I do mean light. Then if you don't like what you have, "Man I hate saying this" strip it and use some true oil on it or whatever suits you. Go easy and good luck. 
Be Safe !!!
Be Safe !!!
Quote: "I definitely wouldn't sand the stocks, unless some handling marks or other damage needed removal. "
I wouldn't consider refinishing a stock without finish sanding it first with 400 and 600 grit to smooth the surface. That would be like repainting a car without any sanding or surface work. Proper preparation of the wood surface significantly improves appearance of the stock after application of new finish IMO.
I wouldn't consider refinishing a stock without finish sanding it first with 400 and 600 grit to smooth the surface. That would be like repainting a car without any sanding or surface work. Proper preparation of the wood surface significantly improves appearance of the stock after application of new finish IMO.
refishing stock
both of these stocks are new in box and I am being very slow in deciding how to aproach this. both stocks are very highly figured and the figure is just dull, no life and it is due to this semigloss poly used by the OEM I am concerned o use a stripper. I have never tried a stripper on figured walnut and am wondering if it will bleach out any color or figure? there is no way to go back once you start. Sanding may be the safe way but it is slow. however sanding and checkering dont mix well.
Don S
both of these stocks are new in box and I am being very slow in deciding how to aproach this. both stocks are very highly figured and the figure is just dull, no life and it is due to this semigloss poly used by the OEM I am concerned o use a stripper. I have never tried a stripper on figured walnut and am wondering if it will bleach out any color or figure? there is no way to go back once you start. Sanding may be the safe way but it is slow. however sanding and checkering dont mix well.
Don S
I agree that the polyurethane finish has about as much character and life as brown paint, but unless it is damaged, I would leave it alone. Having said that, I usually strip and refinish rifles that have that type of finish on them, and refinish using TruOil or Brownells PermaLin, or Brownell's AcraWood if you want an epoxy finish.
For stripping, I use CitriStrip exclusively now, it is a fantastic stripper. It will not bleach or discolor the wood. After you remove the finish, mask off the checkering so you can sand around it without ruining it, unless you intend to reshape the stock (I usually do because they are clunky).
For stripping, I use CitriStrip exclusively now, it is a fantastic stripper. It will not bleach or discolor the wood. After you remove the finish, mask off the checkering so you can sand around it without ruining it, unless you intend to reshape the stock (I usually do because they are clunky).
Regardless of aesthetics, that polyurethane finish is tough. Removing it by sanding is going to take a lot of time and has a high probability of really messing up the wood underneath. Chemical removal is the way to go.
Sometimes, you can get under the poly with a sharp knife and just peel away big chunks, but that is not guaranteed.
Jim
Sometimes, you can get under the poly with a sharp knife and just peel away big chunks, but that is not guaranteed.
Jim
impalacustom
New member
If your poly is a dull finish why don't you polish it to a gloss? Use some automotive polishing compound and bring the luster out in it. I have seen some stocks that an oil finish just wouldn't bring out the wood the way an automotive clear coat could, they are way tougher and protect the wood better.
Just remember, if you want the clear coat back be prepared to pay a pretty penny for it.
Just remember, if you want the clear coat back be prepared to pay a pretty penny for it.
[I wouldn't consider refinishing a stock without finish sanding it first with 400 and 600 grit to smooth the surface. That would be like repainting a car without any sanding or surface work. Proper preparation of the wood surface significantly improves appearance of the stock after application of new finish ]
While that's de rigour with new wood, or wood that's been repaired (holes & cracks filled/dents raised/whatever), it's about 10 years out-of-date for refinishing existing wood stocks, not needing repair, and having a non-epoxy/poly finish.
In the 10 years since I stopped sanding and started using stripper ILO sanding/etc, I've redone over 50 stocks for customers with zero issues or problems.
DON - You might want to do a quick check under the buttplate, before any strip or refinish job on a poly/epoxy finished factory stock - as on some, the "woodgrain" is an application (first instituted by Miroku, and now Beretta & others), and not the real wood.
If the wood inside the inletting, or under the BP, is plain/light and/or very different-looking from the finished surfaces, what you're looking at there is what you'll get everywhere after the "finish" is removed on those particular stocks.
.
While that's de rigour with new wood, or wood that's been repaired (holes & cracks filled/dents raised/whatever), it's about 10 years out-of-date for refinishing existing wood stocks, not needing repair, and having a non-epoxy/poly finish.
In the 10 years since I stopped sanding and started using stripper ILO sanding/etc, I've redone over 50 stocks for customers with zero issues or problems.
DON - You might want to do a quick check under the buttplate, before any strip or refinish job on a poly/epoxy finished factory stock - as on some, the "woodgrain" is an application (first instituted by Miroku, and now Beretta & others), and not the real wood.
If the wood inside the inletting, or under the BP, is plain/light and/or very different-looking from the finished surfaces, what you're looking at there is what you'll get everywhere after the "finish" is removed on those particular stocks.
.
plastic decal or?
Thanks to PetahW for the info on figured wood being faked. I was worried till I got to look at mine closely and I am ok. But that is a scarey thing to have when you are paying a heavy premium for highly figured wood and getting plain wood.
Agiin thanks PetahW
Don S
Thanks to PetahW for the info on figured wood being faked. I was worried till I got to look at mine closely and I am ok. But that is a scarey thing to have when you are paying a heavy premium for highly figured wood and getting plain wood.
Agiin thanks PetahW
Don S
fineredmist
New member
I have done a couple of "plastic" Browning stocks and it is well worth the time and effort. Follow the directions carefully for the stripper you will use. A plastic scraper and a stiff brisel nylon brush ( to clean out the checkering) are the only tools you will need. Take your time and let the wood thourhly dry before sanding and make sure that you mask off the chechering before sanding. I have use Tru Glo with great success but you have to give the wood numerous light coatings and use some 600 grit wet/dry between coats.
Browning Stock Finish
One of the guys at Brownells told me to use Permatex gasket remover as a stripper. I couldn't find any in town so I picked up some CRC gasket remover and gave that a try . It softens it up so that you can scrape it off with a plastic razor blade slick as can be . Several applications are required as there are many coats of finish on a Browning stock . It doesn't raise the grain like strippers do . Clean out the checkering with a fine bristled SS wire brush , go easy and you will have very little sanding to do . Don't forget to dewhisker after sanding . I have been using Brownells Pro-Custom Oil and my customers have been very pleased with the finish . It's the prep that makes or breaks a refinishing job !!
One of the guys at Brownells told me to use Permatex gasket remover as a stripper. I couldn't find any in town so I picked up some CRC gasket remover and gave that a try . It softens it up so that you can scrape it off with a plastic razor blade slick as can be . Several applications are required as there are many coats of finish on a Browning stock . It doesn't raise the grain like strippers do . Clean out the checkering with a fine bristled SS wire brush , go easy and you will have very little sanding to do . Don't forget to dewhisker after sanding . I have been using Brownells Pro-Custom Oil and my customers have been very pleased with the finish . It's the prep that makes or breaks a refinishing job !!