Pistol Lubrication and YOUR MONEY

K

keys85

Moderator
I came across an earlier post on something like "your favorite lube and why", and decided to take a minor spin off from this. I don't intend to make this a debate on what is better, or why Joe uses this or why John uses that, nor do I want to get into proper maintenance and what specifically should be used for what application. That homework assignment should already be done.

What I would like to understand is, when it comes to grease or oil, why do so many people feel they need to spend that $15 or what have you on the TINY little bottle of brand "x" that does all this miracle work. For the price of some of these wonder lubes, one could afford enough lubrication for their LIFE for both their firearm AND their car. So why spend that money when you can go to your local auto-care store, and purchase a grease or oil that has the same if not better characteristics and lubrication properties as these special weapon lubricants?
NEWSFLASH: If your lubrication effects reliability of your weapon you don't know what you're doing no matter what you're using, and secondly, if your pistol wears out faster from using a lube you got from NAPA versus the gunshop then you either shoot more than Todd Jarett or you own a piece of poo-poo.
 
While I don't spend a lot on anything I use [call me cheap] ,as an auto mechanic it's hard to imagine using any auto lube at -30 to -40 on my guns, even using very light gun oil wiped on with an almost dry cloth, then wiped again to remove excess , I've had guns that had to go under my parka after 20 min or so. Alex
 
So why spend that money when you can go to your local auto-care store, and purchase a grease or oil that has the same if not better characteristics and lubrication properties as these special weapon lubricants?
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1. Because firearm lubes (especially the better products) include very effective corrosion prevention additives not found in automotive/general purpose lubrication products. There are some informal corrosion product test results on the web that demonstrate this pretty effectively.

2. I spend less on lubricants than on any other product associated with my firearm hobby. Therefore the cost is a complete non-issue to me. The last bottle of firearm lube I bought cost me $6 and will probably last me a couple of years.

3. Some firearm lubes have other useful properties that come in handy in a pinch. I use a combination product that can also be used as a cleaner if necessary. It's handy to throw it in the range bag knowing that it's a lot less likely to spring a leak than a container of solvent would be and that I can use it to do a quick cleanup & lube if I need to.
 
The last gun lube I bought was in a syringe and it looked exactly like red wheel bearing grease.

I could only laugh at myself for buying it.:rolleyes:
 
In your case I can understand...but in general, there are greases that will work perfectly fine in -40 temps without having to worry about any bubblegum effect - that you can find in your hardware store. Some even have drop points far above those specified for name brand products. Marine grade and industrial greases have anti-corrosion properties. For your average guy, a concealed carry piece on his/her person will never reach an extreme temperature case as you listed because your own body heat will keep the pistol warm.
 
Well I was a millwright that has been through several lubrication seminars. There is a difference in the additives put in oils and greases. Plus just to know a grease is an oil. Now as long as the additives are not harmful to the firearm's finish or metal parts then fine, but don't forget most machine oils work best when heated and the heat range will determine which additives to use. The extreme ranges of the oil only provide minimum protection to parts to allow them to safely reach operating temps. A cold machine won't be cold very long if it's running and a hot machine, one beyond it's operating range, breaks down oils. So the oil must be carefully chosen for the job it must do.
 
While it's true that anyone can package a lubricant/protectant and call it a miracle, the fact is that lubricants can possess many different specifications that make it better for one application over another.

A simple example is that, in my business, I have equipment that costs upwards of $220K that use precision machined mating surfaces and lot's of moving parts.
The manufacturer doesn't "demand" a particular brand of grease or oil or lube, but they do list the "families" of lubricants that MUST be used in the different areas of the machines.

Simply put, all lubricants are not the same.
The trick is to find one in the "family" of lubricants that offer the very best qualities and specifications for the purpose.

While I'm proud to spend lots of money for an ounce or two of oil for my guns, I don't worry about it too much simply because a little goes a long way.
Even if you pay $15 for a bottle of whatever, as long as it IS a "wonder oil" that performs as it should in all weather and temperatures and on all wear surfaces as well as to protect from rust by "sticking" to the metal, then I'll do so because I probably won't have to buy anymore for over a year.

There is a cheap way to do it, though. Just buy the gun oil from any military surplus store. It's going to be a "mil-spec" product that was approved for use in battle weapons, and it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.
 
after watching other people's guns fail

I find the price of a bottle of BreakFree CLP acceptably inexpensive for its demonstrated performance.
In fine dust.
During rainstorms.
In bitter sub-zero cold (yes, I shoot too often in sub-zero temperatures).

I have tried many options over the years, and remain flexible (exactly why I've tested many over the years), but 'cost' was never an issue.

I do not put gun lubricants in my cars.
 
So you got a $500.00+ gun(s), but your looking for ways to scrimp on lube for it 'cause a $8.00 can of XXX is going to set you back too far.
Got it.
 
keys85 - Why don't you just cut to the chase and tell us what you're using, and why you think it is as good as a comparable gun-specific product?

Your assertion that auto parts store lubes will do the job as well for a fraction of the cost really seems to go against your statement that you don't want to start something about Brand X vs. Brand Y. :confused:
 
A little bottle of RemOil sets me back $2 and lasts for several months.

I can not imagine using motor oils or tranny fuids on my firearms.

Years (many) ago I would buy bottles of LSA from a local surplus store for $.50 each, but that supply dried up. I miss the smell of that stuff. :D
 
If a company wants to REALLY make money on a product, they label it "Specially for ???", and double the price. I use basic Hoppe's gun oil. Just one or two drops will lube the whole gun. My revolver cylinders spin like drill and my pistol slides are like buttah.

No matter how much you lube, nothing replaces cleanliness.
 
I have the "redhead curse" namely the strongly rust promoting body chemistry that some folks (especially redheads) seem to be prone to.

I'm perfectly willing to pay a little extra for chemicals/lubricants that help combat this. I've tested many products and found that it's not all just advertising copy, some of the products out there really do make a difference while some of the "cheaper" solutions (ATF fluid springs to mind) do not protect my guns to the degree that I need them to.

That being true for me the extra cost is worth it. Maybe not so important for other folks.
 
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To me, this issue is all about confidence. If you carry a pistol every day and rely upon it to protect your life (and those of others), you need to have absolute confidence that in the moment of necessity, your firearm will operate properly 100% of the time. Many folks can feel this level of confidence if they dot every i and cross every t on all systems related to their firearm, including the choice of solvents/lubricants. Even the most expensive lubricants cost next to nothing compared to other things like ammunition and accessories, so what's the harm?

The beauty of all of this is that there are MANY different lubricants available in many different price levels, and we can each of us choose what we want. Me? I'm not persnickety when it comes to the choice of lubricants I use in my firearms, but then again I don't generally expose them to terribly harsh environmental conditions either.
 
Need Gunsmiths opinion

I'd like to read some expert opinions on proper lubrication from some of the experienced gunsmiths on this forum. If ever there was a time for a professional opinion on this topic, this might be it.

How about it gunsmiths??
 
For years, all the competition shooters I knew plus a number of police officers lubricated the internals of their guns with ATF fluid. There were several reasons for this. First is that it's thin and tends to seep through even close tolerances. Second is that it doesn't gum like oils do over time. Third, it's excellent even in cold weather and still protects when shooting in the desert. The outside of the gun was protected with typical gun oils.

FWIW, I purchased a 4oz can of Browning gun oil at a shop in 1977 and used it for lubrication and corrosion protection. Humidity is fairly low here in CA so corrosion isn't a huge worry like it might be in the south or east. Still, that can lasted me 30 years and for dozens of guns.

When it comes to lubrication, let's face it, firearms do not stress the properties of oil very much. They don't produce huge shear forces, don't need to lubricate under heavy grinding loads and don't need to absorb the kind of heat generated by 2-4,000 rpm moving parts.

Oils in and on our firearms are there to protect against corrosion, reduce wear on occasionally moving parts and make for smooth movement of the parts. Almost any oil will do this for you.

I do happen to like Weapons Shield as a lubricant and find that it works well. Still, I tend to wipe down the guns with an oil like Hoppes because I've always had good results with it.

ATF, FP-10, MPro-7, CLP, Breakfree CLP, Mobil 1, Tetra-Oil, Mil-Tech, Hoppe's, Outers Gun Oil and others will lubricate your gun just fine. Pick the one that gives you the best results for corrosion protection and smooth running of your gun and stick with it.
 
For years, all the competition shooters I knew plus a number of police officers lubricated the internals of their guns with ATF fluid.
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One of the top guys for tuning LE guns back in the 70s and 80s did that. When my Python came back with this strange looking stuff in it, I called to find out what was going on. As I was a repeat customer he told me that after lots of trial and error he had gone to ATF on all his custom work.
 
Cause we love our guns

I am definitely no expert on this or really ANY firearms subject. I am willing to share what I have done over the years, however. Being the proud owner of more than a few handguns, I like to baby them and keep them in as new condition as much as possible. This makes me a pretty easy marketing target when it comes to gun cleaners, as well as lubricants. What I have settled on, after trying many different things, are Hoppe's #9, and Kroil. My revolvers rarely see anything else, because both of these products are superior cleaners, and they both seem to supply adequate lubricating properties as well. In my autos, I use a regular gun oil (not an expensive one, although the brand name escapes me at the moment). I use it very sparingly, mostly on the slides. My guns all see plenty of range time, which is probably why I get away with this approach. The cost? Well, I bought a new container of the oil about a year ago, and have not used it up yet. I think it was about 5 bucks or so. More expensive than Mobil 1, I'll grant you that, but still completely affordable. Besides, a can of Mobil 1 won't fit in my cleaning goodies box.
 
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