Pistol loads?

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blackswamp

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I'm going to work up some pistol loads for the first time. I have been reloading rifle for a few years now so I do have experience. My question is how far back are you from your target when load testing and how far back do you set up a chronograph. I will be loading 9mm and 45acp xtreme bullets.

Thanks
 
For target distance use what you normally shoot at. For my chrono I always set it up at 12' away.
 
The "standard" for measuring pistol groups, as in say for gun tests in American Rifleman magazine, is 25 yards from a Ransom rest or sandbag rest. Typically for the better made target grade 1911s you will see groups reported or guaranteed at 25 yd and sometimes 50 yd, often 2 inches (or less) for 25 and 3 inches for 50.

I shoot all groups from sandbag or standing slow fire at 25 yd. In standing position I can usually tell whether a load works or not. Sandbag would be used for finer differentiation, but I seldom test loads from a sandbag anymore.

What matters most is what your goals are for shooting and performance.
 
From what I read and seen I went with target about 50 feet and I stand about 7 to 10 feet away from my chronograph. The muzzle blast from a pistol is much less than a rifle.
 
IMHO, you'll want to setup your chrono about 10ft or so from the muzzle.

To really see any significant differences in various powder charges or bullet performance, I'd recommend setting your target at 50yds and shooting 10shot groups. Shorter distances and lower rounds counts make it more difficult to do that.

I normally try to shoot at least 2-10shot groups of each load to try and get any "ME" out of the equation. Pick the best 1 or 2 performing loads, load more and do the same thing a different day; again to get the "ME" out of the picture.
 
Groups for normal pistols at 25 yards are usually considered good if they are under 3 inches.
Custom pistols designed for accuracy might be 1 inch.
Like many answers to similar questions, "It all depends."
:confused: :)
 
For me, when I chronograph pistol:

Target is at 10 yards - my normal shooting distance.

Chronograph is at 4 yards.

This has been my configuration for years and it seems to work; so no need to mess with it.
 
The chrono distances you guys listed range from 7 feet to 4 yards!! Are these from directions given with the chronograph? I have a 1980's model from PACT and my directions say the first screen should be 70 inches from the muzzle.

Now a rifle blast usually blows the first "sunshade" off but I overcome that with tape.

Isn't a distance like 4 yards going to give a less accurate muzzle velocity just because of the distance before measuring?
 
"Isn't a distance like 4 yards going to give a less accurate muzzle velocity just because of the distance before measuring? "

Not any less accurate, but a few fps lower. As long as you aren't getting any false readings from muzzle blast, the actual distance isn't critical. At our covered range, I need to go to 10ft or so, just to get the screen lighting that works best. YMMV
 
Isn't a distance like 4 yards going to give a less accurate muzzle velocity just because of the distance before measuring?
Click to expand...

I was always under the impression that a bullet still accelerated for a short distance after leaving the muzzle. Even if it didn't I doubt that velocity lost @ 4 yards is going to be a major factor, especially when using a $100 chrono. I assume the distance is determined by the manufacturer as to avoid interference from muzzle blast.
 
A great depends on what you're using the loads for. Hunting loads aren't the same as target loads. However, like TMD says, use what you normally use. Or the longest distance you normally shoot at. As in 50 yards if you shoot NRA Slow Fire. 50 meters for ISSF.
20 is enough though. You really can forget the chrono altogether. Accuracy is far more important than velocity.
 
The main reason why I chrono at 4 yards is that's the distance needed at my range to get both diffusers bathing in sunlight - until about 10:30am Daylight time (9:30am Standard). After that, the shadow of the overhead starts to cross.

(If it's a hazy or high-thin cloudy day, I can remove the diffusers and chrono at any time. But I'm still at 4 yards for consistency.)

That said, 4 yards seems to be a reasonable distance. I can't imagine much velocity loss between the muzzle and 12 feet. And . . . I'm consistent. All my data is at 4 yards.

Works for me.
 
I don't shoot or load for rifle so I do not have a chronograph.

I test handgun loads at 10yds. Standing, freehand. That is the position and distance a shot in self defense will most likely occur. I work up loads to be the most accurate and reliable at that distance

Now if I were to handgun hunt with larger caliber longer barrels it would be different. I barely ever practice shooting pistol past 25yds. For one reason these old eye just taint what they used to be.
 
I'm not an expert on chronographs, so I read the directions that came with mine. Distance from firearm to chrony is 5 to 10 feet for handguns and 10 to 15 feet for rifles. So far these instructions have worked for me.:rolleyes:

My handgun shooting distances vary with the gun. For my pocket .38 Specials and small 9mms, I usually keep the distances around 15-25 feet. For my .44 Magnums I'll start at 25 yards, work up to 50 yards and embarrass myself at 75 yards. My scoped Contender and scoped Ruger MKIII 50 yards and out is about right...
 
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I have been loading for about 40 years. I load for accuracy with Rifle and Pistol. I do quite well with both. By the way I don't use a chronograph.

Back 30 years ago I did use a friends chronograph but I found little difference with accuracy. Perhaps if I were to purchase a Bench Rest rifle a chronograph might help a little.

I'm happy with 3/8" grouping with out the chronograph.
 
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