Piller bedding. Worth it?

okie24

New member
I have a Remington sps I am thinking about piller bedding. I have already glass bedded it. I recently had some issues with groups opening up quite a bit. I am wondering if it is worth the time and effort. Or should I save my pennys and buy an after market stock?

Any tips on piller bedding would be appriciated as well.

Thanks
 
I'd save my money and settle for nothing but a quality aftermarket stock that came with pillar's. Going cheap on an aftermarket stock will leave you with a stock no better than what you already have, just $200 less in your pocket.
 
How many rounds through your barrel, and what caliber?

If your rifle was properly bedded you should not be having accuracy issues due to bedding.

My Rem 700's shot better after bedding, the factory bedding was just awful and the actions moved around within the stock.

Pillar bedding is a technique. I have non pillar bedded many rifles, pillar bedded a couple, did not see any big difference on target.

You can screw up a pillar bedding job just as much as any other style of bedding.
 
If: You have bedded at the recoil lug and the rear tang, and the action contacts all parts of the bed snugly and does not rock front to rear, and the stock is well sealed against moisture, then it should do quite well and pillars would IMO not add much. Pillars will prevent changes in action screw tension due to minor weather-related changes in the wood. Before you do any more bedding work, play with barrel pressure at the foreend tip, especially if the barrel is floated in front of the bedding point.
 
My 700 CDL SF in 300 WSM from the factory was grouping poorly so I had it pillar bedded by Score High Gunsmiths in ABQ and now the rifle groups less than 1/2" MOA. Worth every penny.
 
The recoil lug and the barrel was floated. It shot very well for about a year then didnt like to be floated all of the sudden. That is what is making me think there may be a bedding issue. I put a pressure pad under the barrel and the groups look good again. The caliber is 270 wsm and I have shot about 1000 rounds through it.
 
The recoil lug and the barrel was floated.

The lug was floated? Or the lug was bedded and the barrel was floated?

If it now wants a pressure point maybe look at action screw tension. One may have loosened a bit...
 
I wrote this for another thread on Free-floating:

Glassbedding flexible factory synthetic stocks requires special techniques. I like pillar bedding, but also imbed reinforcing steel cross-wise in the bedding area to prevent stocks from widening, even splitting under stock screw tension. I use pieces of common bolts in routed slots near the forend screws. That stiffens bedding areas very well.

A few years ago, I did the cross-wise bolt trick on a Rem. Model 7 stock that someone had split by over-torqueing the front screw. It worked so well that the rifle now shoots 1/2 minute groups with factory ammo.

Inexpensive pillars for sporters can be made from 1/2" steel tubing available from hardware stores and Home Depot.
 
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