Coyote WSM,sorry.
IMO,for me, What I end up with is a fully bedded rifle with pillar bushings installed.I stage the process so I only fight one battle at a time.I can simply epoxy in some pillars to begin.Once I have that,the receiver has a "home" to return to.I can then remove the material lfrom the stock for a full bed job.
Mr O Heir,I agree that its always somewhat of a mystery ,what a rifle will do regarding free floating.I agree history proves sometimes a pressure point works.
I go back to the the threaded joint between the barrel and receiver.If the face of the receiver ring is flat and true,if the smith does a proper job of joining the barrel and receiver so they are sound and stable..
With the quality of stress relieving in the custom barrels we get today...such as a Kreiger, my bet would be on the free floated rifle.
In the AR type rifles,if rules allow,those building rifles for accuracy build free floated.
A free float will have the advantage for consistency,offhand,with sling pressure,etc.
And of course,with moisture and temp changes,fully bedded rifles are subject to certain "dynamics" in the stock.
Now,something like My Rem 513T,with one screw holding the receiver bbl in the stock,and the bbl held in the Receiver by two pins? Yes,a little pressure will hold all the wobble to one side.
A fencepost in a loose hole can be stabilized with a guy wire or two.The slop is taken up by pressure.Thats most of forend tip pressure.
I also understand that on a rifle like an SMLE ,there was a tradition of remedies to make them shoot,and shoot well.Amazing!!.Same with a Military rifle like a 1903A3.There was a spec for forend tip pressure for match and sniper rifles.
But,as a formula for predictable, consistent accurate rifles,A trued action ,well fitted to a quality barrel,properly bedded and free floated probably won't need business cards stuffed in the barrel channel.