Pillar bedding theory

J

jcadwell

New member
I'm working on a 25/47 mauser that I'd like to pillar bed in a boyds stock. The bottom lug on the triggerguard will be mill off so I can install a true front pillar.

Is it desirable to have the pillar fit tightly onto the boss on the reciever lug? This could imply that the pillar would be capable of taking recoil. Once the reciever is bedded it seems like the pillar should only function to keep the distance between the reciever and floorplate constant and to ensure bolt torque without wood crush.

What sort of clearance would be desirable for the screw holes?

Thanks.
 
bedding

dear Sir;
I am against "pillar-bedding." the term is accurate, what you end up with is slight contact with the stock and your barreled action on two pillars!
if your stock is wood the proper way to "pillar-bed' is to have a good tight fit in the wood! if you're screwed down on pillars what can result is the wood compresses and you end up with crazy pressures on yourt bbld. action.
What I much prefer is a wood or synthetic stock bedded right and the recoil lug area bedded with steel-bed from Brownells and the bbl. free floated.
However, if you shoose to "pillar bed" be sure that all the pillars do is limit your screw tightness.
With a mauser, milling off anything is not good - I guess I just don't like "pillar bedding."
I know it is used and if you so choose it it may work very well for you - just me opinion.
Harry B.
 
The reason I wanted to alter the front pillar was to add some height to the spacing between the reciever and trigger guard. I bought a Boyd's stock and the inletting in the bottom of the stock for the trigger guard is a bit too deep. By adding a bit of height I could flush up the trigger guard with the bottom of the stock, and then steel bed both the action and trigger guard. The pillars would function as spacers between the action and trigger guard, with the action steel bedded and the barrel floated...
 
The cross bolt on a mauser stock takes the recoil. Using the pillar to absorb recoil will likely result in a split stock because the round pillar will become a wedge. I don't believe the Boyd's stock has a cross bolt and the tiny lip on the front of a Mauser receiver isn't big enough by itself to keep from damaging the wood during recoil.
 
Some glass bed and use the pillar which doesn't make much sense to me .A thorough glass bedding eliminates the need for the pillar .
 
Pillar Bedding

To answer your question, are you going to use this rifle for extreme accuracy or more of a service type rifle for hunting and plinking?

If you want the most accuracy out of your Mauser then you would need to pillar bed, as well as glass bed, and free float the barrel. And despite what some people say about pillar bedding on this forum I will explain what proper pillar bedding does. Proper pillar bedding is used in conjunction with glass bedding the action on your rifle. When you pillar bed an action, the aluminum pillars are an 1/16 to 1/8 inch shorter than where the wood on your stock meets the action and trigger assembly. The reason for it being shorter, is so that you can glass bed not only the action, but the trigger assembly too. And a properly pillar bedded system serves only this function, to make sure that you cannot compress the wood stock by overtightening the action and trigger screws. Meaning that your barrel, action, and trigger assembly sit in the same position each and every time you reassemble your weapon. This is a must for the best possible accuracy out of your rifle. Especially if you are using a wood or laminated wood stock, then both systems need to be employed, to ensure this.

Also the torque for your action and trigger assembly screws should be 62-65 INCH POUNDS.
 
send it back

The Mauser rifle is already pillar bedded in the front. Some even have it in the rear after the 1930's. If you need to raise it very much, give Boyd's a call and I am sure if you haven't done anything to it that they can change it out for you. You can always use bedding material to raise it up slightly, but if you have to raise it up very much, I would remove the escutheon and have one milled to give you the additional hieght that you need to raise the receiver up. Make sure that if you raise it in the fron that you raise it in the rear by using a longer pillar and bedding the whole receiver correctly with the longer pillar and higher escutheon.

Now if you have messed with the stock, they are cheap enough that normally you can afford to buy a another one for the Mauser. Take measurements and send them to them, I would also make a tracing of the trigger guard. They should be able to make you one to those exact dimensions.
 

WHy does everyone want to fit the stock and action by raising the action instead of sanding down the stock until it's even????




-tINY

 
Bedding

If you PROPERLY bed the action it will be even with the stock. No getting parts machined, milled, or drilled except if you are getting custom made pillars.

First pillar bed the action and trigger bolts using 5/8 aluminum stock. Remember to keep the pillars at least 1/16 to 1/8 inch shorter than your wood stock.

Second glass bed the action, recoil lug, and two to three inches forward of the recoil lug. I would suggest Devcon plastic steel. The most DURABLE bedding material to use.

Third glass bed the trigger guard. This will ensure the most accuracy out of your rifle.

This is how most competition rifles are bedded. And it also makes for a perfect fit everytime you take your weapon apart and reassemble it. And ensures that the RECOIL lug is the only thing that is taking the recoil. If you have any questions I can forward you to some links that can help if you are going to do it yourself.
 
The only reason I'm machining pillars is because I work as a machinist and I wouldn't consider buying them.

I appreciate the feedback on how to bed. It makes a lot of sense, and my plastic steel is now drying around the reciever. The reciever is flush with the wood, and the pillars are about 1/8 short. They extend just far enough to position the trigger guard properly so it can be bedded as well.

I'm hoping to use this as a longer range hunting rifle; it is on the heavier side. It's chambered in 7mm-08. I have a 30-30 and a 458 Lott, and nothing in between.
 
I hope in raising the reciever, or lowering the trigger guard you have not created a large gap between these two parts. I have seen problems with feeding of rounds due to the relationship between these two, a large enough gap will cause a weak spring and follower...............Tiny, is right, get out the sandpaper !
 
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