Pillar Bedding older Savage composite stocks

[reynolds357]

Has anyone figured out a good way to put a rear pillar in these piece of junk Savage composite stocks they used in the early 90's? The rear action bolt always pulls through the stock or at very best moves in the stock resulting in terrible accuracy. I have fixed a couple and need to fix another one, but there has to be a better way than the way I am doing it. The only way I have been able to get to work is to remove all the material in that area and epoxy an aluminum block in place, then drill it and inlet it. About a 4 hour job. Is there an easier way that works acceptably well?

 

[Scorch]

Yes.

 

[reynolds357]

Do you care to elaborate?

 

[hooligan1]

Me too. and I'd share pics but this dang thing won't let me. I've done this to three savage stocks,(synthetic only) I use 1/8 inch black pipe nipples for pillar stock and I cut it .010 longer that the stock depth, only on the rear pillar I split the pillar down the middle and grind off the offending material that is in the way of the sear, some good slw-set epoxy, and bob's yer uncle.

 

[reynolds357]

Thanks Hooligan. Can you elaborate a bit more on how you attach the pipe to the stock. I have tried something similar to this and had the pillar break loose. I do not have any trouble with Savage's newer stocks, but this style in particular gives me fits. The one I am about to do is on a 338 Win mag, and the rear action screw actually broke through the stock. There is not a lot to work with left.

 

[alex0535]

I think most of the time what is used to attach it is epoxy.

Consider doing a glass bedding along with a pillar bedding. It would probably help fill in any breaks or weak points in the stock. Somone else will be able to elaborate more on the process than I can, but I think it might be something to look into.

 

[hooligan1]

You may have more of a problem then what I'm talking about if your pillar is broken loose from your stock and now you have nothing to epoxy to. You might have to rebuild that part of your stock and glassbed as well as pillar bed like alex0535 mentioned.
What pillar bedding I do is with a stock that has never broke loose, and I take a dremel type tool (I have one of those expensive flexshaft tools) and use a cutting wheel to make grooves to the outside of the nipple so the epoxy has some "bite", and I drill the screw hole out to the diameter of the nipple, and it works well and it's cheap, and it's steel so it ain't going no where! ( it was Clark, or Picher, or someone that pointed me in that direction)

 

[reynolds357]

These particular stocks dont have a pillar in them. They should have one but do not. I have put a pillar into a couple of them and had it break loose. I need to figure out how to post pictures on here and I could show you exactly what I am talking about. Its hard to describe, but it was a terrible design. What makes is so bad is that there is very little material there to attach a pillar to. My friend that custom builds rifles taught me how to do them with an aluminum block, but its almost not worth the trouble of doing it because it is so time consuming.

 

[tobnpr]

Not familiar with those particular stocks.

But, maybe a Whidden V-Block would be a solution?

 

[gmckinney626]

Here you go:

http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-434/Savage-10-fdsh-110-Steel-Pillar/Detail

I did a 110 with these, and the results are fantastic. The rear pillar has a cutout section so it fits properly to the action. Drill out the stock, install the pillars with a good epoxy like Devcon. I then bedded the action and recoil lug with gray Marine Tex. Rock solid bed.

 

[hooligan1]

Here's what I came up with.

 

[reynolds357]

Thanks. I will try that. I have done something very similar and the pillar would not stay attached to the stock.