Pietta Buffalo

T

TruthTellers

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I hit the range this week and shot my Pietta NMA after a about a year of it sitting around and I couldn't have been more impressed with how well it shot. Unlike the 1851 Navy Pietta I have, it doesn't hit a foot high at 15 yards, it hits POA.

So, because I'm now fully enamored with the New Model Army Piettas, I'm wanting the 12 inch barrel Buffalo revolver with a steel frame. They are hard to find and when I do find them, they are quite expensive. The brass frame models are readily available, but I don't want the brass frame. I intend to use a .45 Colt conversion cylinder for the Buffalo.

I am not opposed to buying a stripped frame and barrel and adding the cylinder, internals, etc. but again, steel frame Buffalo's are tough to find. Would I be better off just buying a complete steel frame Buffalo for double the price of standard Pietta 1858?

For those who have shot, owned, or even handled them, what are your thoughts on these monstrous sized New Model Army revolvers? How much faster is the velocity from the longer barrel?
 
Mind checking the twist rate on that pistol? I expected my 2013 Sheriff's model to have the typical slow twist (1:30") but found it to be about 1:16" like my ROA. However some people claim their newer models still have the slow twist barrel.

Also curious what load(s) you've been using and like. As my guns are meant for hunting I had Accurate Molds create a custom mold with a wide meplat but the length of a ball figuring it to have that slow twist. .460 long and 195 grns. It shoots well as does his little brother that weighs 170 grns and is but .400" long. This with 30 grns (weighs about 33 grns on the scale) of 3F Olde Eynsford. Judging by chronograph results of similar loads it's likey around 400 ft/lbs.

I measured the remaining room in the cylinder and am figuring one day I'll order another mold to take up that excess space looking to tighten up the groups a bit as all too often we read of match shooters claiming filling the chamber with filler helps. I'll use lead as filler as I was surprised to find my groups don't really change from a .457" ball to the 195 grn bullet. Not to mention it will only help penetration and I'm a bit fond of 230 grn .45 ACP loads in a 1911 which this would about replicate.
 
rodwhaincamo said:
Mind checking the twist rate on that pistol? I expected my 2013 Sheriff's model to have the typical slow twist (1:30") but found it to be about 1:16" like my ROA. However some people claim their newer models still have the slow twist barrel.

Also curious what load(s) you've been using and like. As my guns are meant for hunting I had Accurate Molds create a custom mold with a wide meplat but the length of a ball figuring it to have that slow twist. .460 long and 195 grns. It shoots well as does his little brother that weighs 170 grns and is but .400" long. This with 30 grns (weighs about 33 grns on the scale) of 3F Olde Eynsford. Judging by chronograph results of similar loads it's likey around 400 ft/lbs.

I measured the remaining room in the cylinder and am figuring one day I'll order another mold to take up that excess space looking to tighten up the groups a bit as all too often we read of match shooters claiming filling the chamber with filler helps. I'll use lead as filler as I was surprised to find my groups don't really change from a .457" ball to the 195 grn bullet. Not to mention it will only help penetration and I'm a bit fond of 230 grn .45 ACP loads in a 1911 which this would about replicate.
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I agree that some sort of flat point is best for a hunting load. IMO, if I was to cast my own conicals, I'd get the 240 grain Kaido mold which is designed for hunting.

rodwhaincamo said:
These guys have reasonable prices:

http://www.oldsouthfirearms.com/traditions1858remingtonnewarmy44calsteelframe12octbarrelbuffalo.aspx

And stainless:

http://www.oldsouthfirearms.com/tra...warmy44calsteelframe12octbarrelbuffalo-2.aspx
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The blued model is reasonable, but the stainless one is too much for me. I doubt these are flying off the shelves, so I'll keep my eye out for a used steel frame on gunbroker and ebay.
 
I tried to order the 240 grn Kaido way back when but they had been out of stock without enough orders to retool (Lee). I waited for months and finally gave up. However I was able to make what I feel were better changes. We don't need two lube grooves, a wider meplat, to me, was better, and I wasn't certain about that length in a NMA chamber. And with mine I don't think the Kaido 240 would be ideal (more accurate useful load) bullet.
 
rodwhaincamo said:
I tried to order the 240 grn Kaido way back when but they had been out of stock without enough orders to retool (Lee). I waited for months and finally gave up. However I was able to make what I feel were better changes. We don't need two lube grooves, a wider meplat, to me, was better, and I wasn't certain about that length in a NMA chamber. And with mine I don't think the Kaido 240 would be ideal (more accurate useful load) bullet.
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The length of the bullet is an issue for you, but you don't use a bp substitute for powder. I plan to use Pyrodex and Triple 7, which compress more and can leave more room for the Kaido bullets.

But I won't argue a lighter conical makes for a better plinking and target load in c&b revolvers.
 
A ball will typically give a complete passthrough. A WFN will just ensure it's going to cut a wider wound channel and penetrate further.

I also use Triple 7. They both shoot to the same POI and give the same (offhand shooting at 15 yds) group size (roughly). Olde E is cheaper and so I shoot more of it.

I had found that T7 compresses more one day at the range trying Olde E for the first time. Had to knock out the ball through the nipple opening to remove it all. 45 grns of T7 or 40 grns of Olde E seems to be the max with a ball in my ROA.
 
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