I just finished building this kit that someone gave me that is 30 years old. The barrel and cylinder are stainless. It came with no instructions but was able to get a scamatic on line and also a video of a 1858 remington new army pistol on youtube that has the same action as the spiller. After putting it all together using the diagram and the detailed video everything seems to work except that the cylinder doesnt rotate when the hammer is drawn back and doesnt lock or line up correctly with the hammer. Any ideas ? Thanks steve
Pietta 1862 spiller & burr kit trouble
- Thread starter showell57
- Start date
Sounds like a broken hand spring. The hand on the S&B is screwed to the hammer. If the spring is broken, the hand will not come out of the hole to turn the cylinder.
Also sounds like the cylinder bolt stop may have some issues. However, without photos of the parts, hard to really help.
The Doc is out now.
Also sounds like the cylinder bolt stop may have some issues. However, without photos of the parts, hard to really help.
The Doc is out now.
hand spring
thanks for your reply doc, the hand spring looks fine and so does the cylinder stop. Maybe the springs that help operate these parts could be malfunctioning even though they were never used but are over 30 years old.what do you think. Also when the hammer is in the full cocked postion the cylinder will lock if you try to turn it counter clockwise (looking towards the front sight)but will continue to be free spinning if you turn it clockwise.I will post pictures tomorrow . Thanks
thanks for your reply doc, the hand spring looks fine and so does the cylinder stop. Maybe the springs that help operate these parts could be malfunctioning even though they were never used but are over 30 years old.what do you think. Also when the hammer is in the full cocked postion the cylinder will lock if you try to turn it counter clockwise (looking towards the front sight)but will continue to be free spinning if you turn it clockwise.I will post pictures tomorrow . Thanks
Show
Take the cylinder out of the revolver. Then cycle the action.
When you move the hammer to half cock, the hand should extend and protrude from the recoil shield by at least an eighth inch. Probably more. If it does not, the spring is weak. Or it may be bound up on the hammer and not moving properly.
The bolt should drop out of sight in the frame of the revolver or should at least drop low enough to disengage from the slots in the cylinder.
It should then click into the battery position when the hammer is drawn to full cock.
As the real Doc (DrLaw) says, some photos would be very helpful, however in this case, the photos may not tell the full story.
By the way.....Welcome to the forum. You came to the right place.
Take the cylinder out of the revolver. Then cycle the action.
When you move the hammer to half cock, the hand should extend and protrude from the recoil shield by at least an eighth inch. Probably more. If it does not, the spring is weak. Or it may be bound up on the hammer and not moving properly.
The bolt should drop out of sight in the frame of the revolver or should at least drop low enough to disengage from the slots in the cylinder.
It should then click into the battery position when the hammer is drawn to full cock.
As the real Doc (DrLaw) says, some photos would be very helpful, however in this case, the photos may not tell the full story.
By the way.....Welcome to the forum. You came to the right place.
dove tail rod holder on barrel
does anyone know the best way to install the latch to the dove tail that holds the rod to the bottom of the barrel and what is the best way to install the barrel to the frame of the pistol without scratching it. I was thinking about using a strap wrench and vise to do the job. The barrel screws on and needs to be tool tightened about 1/4 turn to line it up. Is there a stop in the machined treads on the frame that will stop the barrel when its lined up properly ? Like I mention before this is a kit that was given to me with no instructions or manual so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
does anyone know the best way to install the latch to the dove tail that holds the rod to the bottom of the barrel and what is the best way to install the barrel to the frame of the pistol without scratching it. I was thinking about using a strap wrench and vise to do the job. The barrel screws on and needs to be tool tightened about 1/4 turn to line it up. Is there a stop in the machined treads on the frame that will stop the barrel when its lined up properly ? Like I mention before this is a kit that was given to me with no instructions or manual so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
Show
You can put the barrel in a vise but line the vice with something to protect the surface. If you have some slabs of oak or maple you can use those. The tightening of the barrel a quarter turn is not that hard but I doubt that it can be done in one motion. The importance of using a vise is that it spreads the force over a large surface area of the barrel. Almost any other tool you use contacts the barrel over a small area and consequently far more force is needed to hold the barrel while turning it. Tis will almost certainly leave a mark on the barrel.
You can get the barrel to tighten properly with the sight lined up for good accuracy by repeatedly removing and installing the barrel. In effect your are wearing the threads on the barrel and frame slightly each time you put it in. Some have suggested using valve lapping compound on the threads to shorten the process. I don't recommend that.
You say that right now it snugs up at a quarter turn or 90 degrees from correct. After the repeated removing and installing of the barrel it should get looser until it does not get snug until you are about twenty to thirty degrees from correct. Once you get it to that point, you should be able to make it nice and tight at the proper line up.
I have built a lot of Remington kits but not a Spiller and Burr.
I have never had to take anything off of the front of the frame. That should not be necessary on your revolver either. BUT if you find it is necessary be extremely careful since you can easily ruin the angle on the front surface of the frame. This means that the shoulder on the barrel will contact the frame at one point and no other. There will be a visible gap at some points on the junction between the sholder of the barrel and the front surface of the frame.
You can put the barrel in a vise but line the vice with something to protect the surface. If you have some slabs of oak or maple you can use those. The tightening of the barrel a quarter turn is not that hard but I doubt that it can be done in one motion. The importance of using a vise is that it spreads the force over a large surface area of the barrel. Almost any other tool you use contacts the barrel over a small area and consequently far more force is needed to hold the barrel while turning it. Tis will almost certainly leave a mark on the barrel.
You can get the barrel to tighten properly with the sight lined up for good accuracy by repeatedly removing and installing the barrel. In effect your are wearing the threads on the barrel and frame slightly each time you put it in. Some have suggested using valve lapping compound on the threads to shorten the process. I don't recommend that.
You say that right now it snugs up at a quarter turn or 90 degrees from correct. After the repeated removing and installing of the barrel it should get looser until it does not get snug until you are about twenty to thirty degrees from correct. Once you get it to that point, you should be able to make it nice and tight at the proper line up.
I have built a lot of Remington kits but not a Spiller and Burr.
I have never had to take anything off of the front of the frame. That should not be necessary on your revolver either. BUT if you find it is necessary be extremely careful since you can easily ruin the angle on the front surface of the frame. This means that the shoulder on the barrel will contact the frame at one point and no other. There will be a visible gap at some points on the junction between the sholder of the barrel and the front surface of the frame.
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