pietta 1851 navy trouble

B

billiam916

Inactive
Hey guys,
i am new to the FLF and i have a question about a cabelas 1851 navy i just bought, and by reading some of the fourms on the 1851 navy, i think i have an idea what the answer might be.
 
oops not enough info

anyways,
it is a 36 cal. steel frame puchased from cabelas(i didnt want the brass becaus i heard they are only good for display or casual shooting). i have shot the thing about 100 times and have noticed that the cylinder catch groves are getting wrecked. from my expierence i am assuming that the gun is out of time. also, after the cylinder was already marred, it started to funtion properly and the hammer dosnt bind during each cocking of the hammer. the thing shoots like heaven and i can hit almost anything from 15 yards, but this cylinder probelm is the only mishap i have encountered.
other than that it is a great C&B pistol for the money.
any advice on what to do with it??
 
I have a herd of cap and balls one is the same as yours.

First of all what you said about the brass frame being only for light shooting, well sir I am afraid your mistaken.
I have one that was built in Italy that I have had since 1970, and I participate in Cowboy matches and its one of the guns that I use. The number of rounds it’s had through it I couldn’t even come to guess.
But the steel bar that the cylinder rides on has a small V notch cut out from the gas escaping between the cylinder and barrel.
Brass is a fine material to make frames out of for low pressure guns like cap and ball revolvers.
I have had the same problem with the one Calabras that you did. What I did to fix it was to totally disassemble the gun and us a honing stone on all the moving part of the action.
When you say that the cylinder lock chewed up the cylinder, do you mean that it cut a ring completely around the cylinder, or just where the notch that the lock goes into.
Older models of the colt design do this. Cheaper guns to. The lock is only held down when the hammer has started its rearward movement and then releases before it is all the way back.
 
yes sir

thank you for a quick reply sir, the cylinder lock is only chewing up the cylinder lock notches. it makes them about 1/16th of an inch wider. the pistol shoots fine but it is ugly ass hell. i did not mean to imply that the brass frames were no good it was just some advice i had heard from some guys at the range. i would buy an uberti but it is out of my price range. so is the revolver out of time and should i send it back to cabelas and ask for a new one?
 
also, i dont have much expierenc with gunsmithing except for parts changeouts on a 10/22 but im not sure how to hone all of the internal parts.
should i have this done by a gunsmith?
 
Working an an 1851

If you can do a 10/22, you can do a black powder revolver. Lot less parts and not as small. I own and play with the insides of both. Here is a link to get you started with the insides of an 1851. Just go for it.

http://users.adelphia.net/~danwagner/action.html

Here is a link to a forum where the subject of the cylinder stop (bolt) was just hashed out pretty good. Go back a few days and you will find it. On this forum, most of the Folks do their own work and share what they have found as they do it. Wonderful Folks and love to share.

http://www.voy.com/60048/


Good Luck
Lee
 
LEE is right on the money

THere very simple desighn and easy to dissamble.
One sugestion first get your self a good set of screwdrivers, GOOD SET
There are so many different head sizes and you want a driver that fits the screw knotch as much as possible with no play and yet not touch any mettal out side the screw head.
The web sight that Lee put up is very good and "Thank you LEE"
but if you have a digital camira take pictures as you take it apart.
But I think that you will find it easy to work out.
P.S.
BRASS looks prettier on a c&b
 
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