Hi all. I have the Lee classic turret press kit which has pretty much everything in it to start loading with including hand case prep, manual all that kind of stuff scale. I have already loaded 9mm and am getting ready to embark on 223 and 30-06. I have probably thousands of cases of 9mm and 223 that I need to sort and clean. In order of preference what should be on my shopping list to make life better? I see tumblers, electronic scales electronic case trimmers, stuff like that. I am going to start slowly until I can really develop loads so no need to go out and buy a whole bunch of them, but I am thinking more incrementally a piece at a time that will add the most benefit to my experience. How have you guys built up your gear on a budget? Thanks. Can of worms.....Open!
Pieces to buy next?
- Thread starter baddarryl
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springer99
New member
If you're branching out to reloading rifle cartridges, I'd think that a case trimmer and a tumbler would be on my short list. If your kit came with the Lee Auto-Drum measure you should be GTG. If it came with the Pro Auto-Disk measure, then I'd suggest getting either the Auto-drum or an after-market measure that can handle larger powder dumps.
blackwidowp61
New member
I didn't see a caliper mentioned in your list. Pretty much a must when making rifle loads. Either digital or analog.
For cleaning I started with a vibratory tumbler but have since switched to the Frankfort wet tumbler and I’ll never go back to dry media. It’s well worth it IMO for a better cleaning that includes the primer pockets.
I also use the LCT with the powder disks and have loaded plenty of 9mm with that setup, however, for rifle cartridges I use the RCBS chargemaster 1500 for powder dumps ... also well worth the money when compared to manually weighing each and every load, which I did for far too long.
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I also use the LCT with the powder disks and have loaded plenty of 9mm with that setup, however, for rifle cartridges I use the RCBS chargemaster 1500 for powder dumps ... also well worth the money when compared to manually weighing each and every load, which I did for far too long.
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Basic for new reloaders; Good manual and/or The ABCs of Reloading. Tumblers aren't necessary, I reloaded for 12 years before I tumbled my brass. Just wipe each case with a solvent dampened rag as it's inspected. Nope, you won't ruin your dies and yep, you can spot defects in the case. For rifle cases you'll need some case lube and a good starter for trimming is Lee's tool (the one with the "gauge", shell holder and cutter). I used a Lee scale with scoops for a couple years and got a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (still use the PPM for certain powders 30 years later). Also you'll need tool to chamfer the case mouth (I have used a countersink for the ID and emery cloth for the OD).
I too bought my reloading equipment as I needed it and researched each tool before I bought it. I now have a multi-colored bench (lots of different tool manufacturers) and my tools fit my reloading style. Being a lifelong machinist/mechanic I've found that there are a lot of tools that aren't "dedicated" reloading tools that work just as well and sometimes better.
Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
I too bought my reloading equipment as I needed it and researched each tool before I bought it. I now have a multi-colored bench (lots of different tool manufacturers) and my tools fit my reloading style. Being a lifelong machinist/mechanic I've found that there are a lot of tools that aren't "dedicated" reloading tools that work just as well and sometimes better.
Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
Rangerrich99
New member
A tumbler (or a wet rotary) is nice if you're going to be cleaning large numbers of cases. I shoot a few thousand .223 rounds a year, so I use a tumbler for cleaning that brass. For my rather small lots of .30-06 brass, I usually just clean them by hand, as I never load more than a couple dozen at a time.
A trimmer is a must for rifle cases. I have a Hornady case trimmer, which has worked adequately for me so far, but I'm not necessarily recommending it. If I were starting from scratch, I'd get the Giraud Tri-Way trimmer (about $100) which trims, chamfers, and deburrs all at the same time. Hoping Santa drops one of these into my stocking this year, so that I can retire the Hornady camlock trimmer.
Calipers are a necessity, but any brand will do. I use a set of Cabela's brand digital calipers, which are accurate enough. $18 I think.
And as you're planning on loading .223 rem you might consider a primer pocket swager or something to remove the occasional crimped primer pocket. Or just toss those cases out.
A trimmer is a must for rifle cases. I have a Hornady case trimmer, which has worked adequately for me so far, but I'm not necessarily recommending it. If I were starting from scratch, I'd get the Giraud Tri-Way trimmer (about $100) which trims, chamfers, and deburrs all at the same time. Hoping Santa drops one of these into my stocking this year, so that I can retire the Hornady camlock trimmer.
Calipers are a necessity, but any brand will do. I use a set of Cabela's brand digital calipers, which are accurate enough. $18 I think.
And as you're planning on loading .223 rem you might consider a primer pocket swager or something to remove the occasional crimped primer pocket. Or just toss those cases out.
- Reloading Manual (or better yet, more than one Reloading Manual)
- A balance or scale for weighing powder charges.
- A powder measure
- Calipers (and a 0-1 inch Micrometer if you can afford it)
- Deburring tool
- Case Trimmer
- Case Tumbler (vibratory or rotary)
I ranked them like this because you need the manuals to tell you what you're doing and how to do it safely. You should read the "How to Reload" section twice before you do anything else. Once you've done that, you need to know how much powder you're putting into each case and a way to do it consistently. Everything that follows is dependent to some extent on measurement so a caliper is needed. I use a caliper and micrometer to take measurements on the critical dimensions of the cases so I don't use a case gauge. If you don't get a micrometer you'll probably want a case gauge. The debutting tool and case trimmer go together. Bottleneck cartridges stretch with firing and will eventually need to be trimmed. The case tumbler is useful to clean cases, polish them and remove resizing lubricant, but is not as important as the other items and you can live with brown rather than golden color brass while you take care of the other items.
After this, everything else is to some degree a convenience or luxury. An electronic powder dispenser is nice, but if you've got a powder measure and balance you can do everything that reloaders have been doing for the better part of a century. If you deal with military cases a primer pocker swage or reamer will help you retain your sanity and avoid carpal tunnel. You'll make a mistake from time to time so a bullet puller (kinetic or cam action) is nice. And the list can go on from there.
Rangerrich99
New member
Oh yeah a bullet puller. Can't believe I forgot that one. And I'd suggest getting a camlock puller. Way easier and faster than a kinetic. And .223 bullets are so light it takes around two dozen whacks to get one to come out.
Solvent Warning: This does penetrate the skin. If you do that use gloves.
I get by with what I have until I see what I want on sale.
Of that list I would go with the Tumbler and for sure a set of metal micrometers. I have a Thumbler Vibratory that is a step above others, never used a rotrary so no opinion on those.
I have looked at wet tumbling, just too much fluid handling, sorting of brass and pins and a problem in disposal in my shop.
The Dry vs wet is not right or wrong, it had a lot do do with how this works for you.
I got my electronic powder dispense for $167 on a sale (Lyman). I would never want to give up that and you get both scale and dispenser.
I do have a Layman scale with a trickler as a backup and general bench weighting use (is that a 168 gr HP or a 175 gr HP I just found?)
And while I am no spring chicken and fixed in my ways, I love electronic scales or the dispenser, the beams just sit on the shelf now.
I think the electronics used right are better, but you do have to know how to keep them zeroed.
It sure makes things go faster. Not only the load, but with larger cartridge (243 on up) you can do things in between eh powder dispensing like seat a bullet or two.
Keep an eye out, Lyman makes a small one but still easily does 50+ 30-06 from its hopper. RCBS makes a small one have only seen. Touch screens are too small and you do need a touch stylus but its only a few bucks.
I like the off the shoulder trimmers, with a drill chucked up in a vice I can go through 300 cases in 10 minutes.
Just did a small batch of 270 on the old hand crank RCBS, reminded me how much I hated it.
Gerrard Tri Trimmer is the best drill unit as it does it in one step.
The Trim It II works but is a lot of setting (it has 5 different size hex screws to adjust it)
Little Crow WFT is lower prices does a nice job though you have to chamfer and deburr. Probably what I will get for hte 270 as its fairly low use loads.
I get by with what I have until I see what I want on sale.
Of that list I would go with the Tumbler and for sure a set of metal micrometers. I have a Thumbler Vibratory that is a step above others, never used a rotrary so no opinion on those.
I have looked at wet tumbling, just too much fluid handling, sorting of brass and pins and a problem in disposal in my shop.
The Dry vs wet is not right or wrong, it had a lot do do with how this works for you.
I got my electronic powder dispense for $167 on a sale (Lyman). I would never want to give up that and you get both scale and dispenser.
I do have a Layman scale with a trickler as a backup and general bench weighting use (is that a 168 gr HP or a 175 gr HP I just found?)
And while I am no spring chicken and fixed in my ways, I love electronic scales or the dispenser, the beams just sit on the shelf now.
I think the electronics used right are better, but you do have to know how to keep them zeroed.
It sure makes things go faster. Not only the load, but with larger cartridge (243 on up) you can do things in between eh powder dispensing like seat a bullet or two.
Keep an eye out, Lyman makes a small one but still easily does 50+ 30-06 from its hopper. RCBS makes a small one have only seen. Touch screens are too small and you do need a touch stylus but its only a few bucks.
I like the off the shoulder trimmers, with a drill chucked up in a vice I can go through 300 cases in 10 minutes.
Just did a small batch of 270 on the old hand crank RCBS, reminded me how much I hated it.
Gerrard Tri Trimmer is the best drill unit as it does it in one step.
The Trim It II works but is a lot of setting (it has 5 different size hex screws to adjust it)
Little Crow WFT is lower prices does a nice job though you have to chamfer and deburr. Probably what I will get for hte 270 as its fairly low use loads.
m&p45acp10+1
New member
Knowing the budget will help greatly. There are the things that if you can afford them they will make things go much more smoothly, or quickly. Sometimes both. Sometimes we do not have the funds to do that so we get what we can afford, and work with that, and possibly upgrade later.
If you scale is the Lee model. I would advise upgrading that first. For the handgun brass you will not need to trim it. With 9mm you may need to remove crimps or stakes from primer pockets. Many Euro and some stateside factories use crimps, or stakes. Thus you try to prime, and the primer just does not want to go in. For 9mm you can keep a can near the bench. When the can fill up then you have enough to start removing the crimps. For the .223 unless the brass is factory new, or previously processed before you got it. You are going to need a small primer pocket crimp removal tool. Either a swage, or a reamer. The only head stamps that I know of that do not do this are as follows: Nosler (Good luck finding those cases on the ground at the range.) R-P, Hornady (I hoard any I find on the range for my bolt action stash.) and Lapua (I have not in 8 years found a single one in the bucket, or on the ground at the range, and they have several tons of brass from the past year in a barn.)
If you scale is the Lee model. I would advise upgrading that first. For the handgun brass you will not need to trim it. With 9mm you may need to remove crimps or stakes from primer pockets. Many Euro and some stateside factories use crimps, or stakes. Thus you try to prime, and the primer just does not want to go in. For 9mm you can keep a can near the bench. When the can fill up then you have enough to start removing the crimps. For the .223 unless the brass is factory new, or previously processed before you got it. You are going to need a small primer pocket crimp removal tool. Either a swage, or a reamer. The only head stamps that I know of that do not do this are as follows: Nosler (Good luck finding those cases on the ground at the range.) R-P, Hornady (I hoard any I find on the range for my bolt action stash.) and Lapua (I have not in 8 years found a single one in the bucket, or on the ground at the range, and they have several tons of brass from the past year in a barn.)
This is it. Thank you everyone so far! The small stuff from right to left are Safety Prime, riser, lube, Lyman scale, Lee Adjustable Charge bar, Lee chamfer kit, Lee Safety Scale, dial calipers, and Lyman bullet remover. The stuff on the bottom is just brass, powders, dies, etc.
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springer99
New member
Looks like the measure is an Pro Auto-disk. Fine for pistol but you need something better to handle large powder charges, and a loading block to hold the cases during the process. That and something to trim to length the cases will be a basic setup. Rifle cases WILL grow with reloading, straight walled pistol cases-hardly ever(IMO).
If you're real fussy, pick up a primer pocket cleaner.
If you're real fussy, pick up a primer pocket cleaner.
RC20 seems like a good source of information and has convinced me to take a serious look at this for a trimmer (I posted this in another thread):
Disclaimer: I don't own a Giraud trimmer (yet) and have not used one but it sure seems like it might be a nifty way to trim cases.
The Giraud Tri-Way trimmer for .223. It trims, chamfers and deburs at the same time, discussed in this thread:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588132&highlight=trimmer
http://www.giraudtool.com/Tri Way Trimmer.htm
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As to your scale dilemma, I'm reminded of the old proverb 'a man with one watch knows what time it is, a man with two watches is never sure.' You could take all the fun out the proverb by buying a set of check weights.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/533891/rcbs-standard-scale-check-weight-set
Disclaimer: I don't own a Giraud trimmer (yet) and have not used one but it sure seems like it might be a nifty way to trim cases.
The Giraud Tri-Way trimmer for .223. It trims, chamfers and deburs at the same time, discussed in this thread:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588132&highlight=trimmer
http://www.giraudtool.com/Tri Way Trimmer.htm
-----------------------------------------------------
As to your scale dilemma, I'm reminded of the old proverb 'a man with one watch knows what time it is, a man with two watches is never sure.' You could take all the fun out the proverb by buying a set of check weights.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/533891/rcbs-standard-scale-check-weight-set
Looks like you are off to a good start baddarryl with a great basic setup. Like others here I washed my cases for years, a tumbler will make them shiny and pretty but soap and hot water will clean them. Stil shiny cases are purty and if you get a lot of range pickup brass a tumber is nice. Just me but I would spend my money for good dies and see what direction your shooting/reloading leads you, maybe pick up a set of Lee hand case trimmers for the rifle calibers
I have a RCBS 502 balance beam, a RCBS Loadmaster and a RCBS 750. The 2 electronics agree with each other but are always .1 off of the balance beam above 20 grains. I know that from experience and just accommodate for if checking or weighing a charge on the balance. Start low and work up a load on one or the other then always weigh it to that number on that scale and if weighing on the other just know how much you need to compensate
I have a RCBS 502 balance beam, a RCBS Loadmaster and a RCBS 750. The 2 electronics agree with each other but are always .1 off of the balance beam above 20 grains. I know that from experience and just accommodate for if checking or weighing a charge on the balance. Start low and work up a load on one or the other then always weigh it to that number on that scale and if weighing on the other just know how much you need to compensate
Smoke & Recoil
New member
I would like to suggest that you put more bend in your press handle/lever, it
gives better clearance for your Auto Disc. Screw the wood ball off and place
the steel rod in a vise and slide a pipe over the rod for leverage.
gives better clearance for your Auto Disc. Screw the wood ball off and place
the steel rod in a vise and slide a pipe over the rod for leverage.
Thank you. While I am over 60, I also work as an equipment techno/engineer (motors, generators, switchgear, compressors etc).
I don't move fast (mentally or physically these days) but I don't discount new stuff either.
What I also have found out is what works for me, does not work for another person. Not because of technical merit, but how things fit into your brain.
I love digital scales. I work with that sort of stuff and the monitoring of how its working and the correction is not an issue.
Others don't and prefer beam scales. They work find, but never suited me, it was just the best we had and could afford.
Functionally a beam pretty much does the same job as a digital.
A lot of what has come up has been a collaboration with my brother. One or the other of us finds something, thinks it works better for us and try's it, the passes the idea on.
While we agree on a lot, so far I have not gone to the wet method. It works for him and I understand what and why, but not for me. Neither right nor wrong but a combo of his home setup and mine as well as how we go about things.
Some things are money related. He got a Co ax press, looks like a great way to go. Big bucks and I have two good Rock Chuckers. hmmmm. Lot of die screwing in and out.
As I switch dies a lot the Coax is one good solution.
I think a Hand turn turret would be another.
So its a process, you listen, chew on it, apply it to yourself as best you can and then pass it on as to how and why it works for you.