Pics of the new (to me) Superposed!

J

jaughtman

New member
OK, I went ahead and bit on the offer to buy this "project" Browning Superposed. It is roughly 1958 manufactor, 3" chamber, Briley thin-wall chokes. What do you think? These are some before pics before the wood gets refinished (the worst is the long scratch in the forend pic - other than that, it just needs a new - I am thinking Satin - finish).

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Not sure.....

but probably the best my guy (I am not refinishing it) can do is slightly fill it in before refinishing - it will still be noticable, just not as much. I will call it "character".

J
 
The head of the stock at the receiver looks "proud" enough for a good refinish - if you have the wood-working skills, it should come out looking fine.

Good luck, and DON'T forget the "after" pics!
 
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Oops....

it is a 1957 on closer inspection (i.e. "actually looking it up"). I have been told that "long tang" is a good thing with Superposed?

J
 
The RKLT designation....meaning Round Knob, Long Tang seems to have an interest with collectors and shooters; although I have never heard anyone having an issue with short tang guns.

Are those 26.5" barrels?
 
Typically.......and that is a loosely used term, Belgian Browning barrel lengths were 26-1/2, 27-5/8, 28, 30, 32 depending on model.

Usually, the 26.5 were either SK/SK weighing about 8+ pounds, or SK/IC weighing about 7-1/4# pounds (field gun)

(I'm looking at a bunch right now on GunsInternational - your pics got me wanting one again! - wife's gonna kill me)

The 27 and 28" barrels were typically field guns chokes anywhere from IC/IM to M/F, while the 30 and 32 were usually trap double guns choked M/F or IM/F
 
Well, not to brag....

but I got that baby for the whopping sum of $630 so even if I put a couple hundred into refinishing the wood, I have a Belgian Superposed for under a grand....keep looking - deals are out there!

J
 
Why would you want to refinish that gun? The marks and scratches give that fine old gun character and a patina of life. To me refinishing the gun would rob it of its history and wouldn't make it shoot any better.
 
If it were mine ....

a. I would strip off the old finish ....

b. sand some of the rough spots a "little" bit ( 300 grit or so / and not too aggressively ) .. I'd also try some damp heat ( wet cloth and a steam iron ) to get some of the dents out as best you could...

c. I would not use any "filler" because I don't care what the can says ...it will never stain like the original wood ...!!

d. Depending on what might hide the scratches better - I would probably darken the wood a little with stain / and use a good varnish --- about 6 coats ...and probably a semi-gloss rather than a Satin ....

a product I like is -

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5531/Product/PRO_CUSTOM_OIL_GUNSTOCK_FINISH

and I've used it on several Browning O/U's. The marketing label says "oil" - but its really a "varnish". It takes patience / 3 days per coat / let it harden - light sand in between - and then another coat. So it takes about 3 weeks just to do the finish.
 
DO NOT REFINISH that gun!

I already posted in your other thread about the options to refinish and i was under the assumption that the gun was a mess. Now that I can see the gun i would say leave it.... the scratches add character to a fine old hunting O/U and any prospective buyers or admirers will appreciate the current condition of the gun.

The briley chokes are a big plus (and about a $475 value right now) and hopefully you got a few spare choke tubes with the gun because briley tubes are not cheap.

and yes there are deals to be had..

I picked up a browning citori trap model from 1978 last friday that had less than a case of shells thru it in its entire life... lets just say I walked out the door with the gun for way less than what it is worth... see my thread for pics..
 
Thanks....

I never realized chokes were that much to install as I never retro-installed any. As far as the gun not being "a mess", not it isn't, but I am still leaning to refinishing it (actually having it refinished) as the finish it just about totally gone in some spots - showing bare wood. That does not show up in my amatuerish pics. I will post some after pics and then we can vote on if I made a mistake. Haha.

J
 
Before you start stripping off the old finish give it a chance. Clean it and a coat of wax will go a long way.

Use something like Meguiar's cleaner wax, then a coat of regular wax. the finish will come up very well. This won't take out the dents/scratches but will make the finish look good.
 
b. sand some of the rough spots a "little" bit ( 300 grit or so / and not too aggressively ) .. I'd also try some damp heat ( wet cloth and a steam iron ) to get some of the dents out as best you could...
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Good advice
 
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