Photographing Guns

Gunslinger

Moderator
We all love our "pride and joys" and I'm sure many of us have attempted to take photo's of them with less than favorable results. (Read: Gunslinger can't take a picture to save his life.) I'm referring to photo's to show detail, engraving, etc., not something for insurance purposes.
Please share your tips, "tricks" and techniques.
Face it. We all have that family photo album with pictures of Uncle Herb and even cousiin Bo. Now it is time for the rest of the "family" to take their rightful place in the family album.

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Gunslinger

TFL End of Summer Meet, August 12th & 13th, 2000
 
Guns are very difficult to photograph. The best results are usually obtained by photographing them *outdoors* 'in the shade' (no flash)on a sunny day. Try it. I was trying to photograph my guns indoors using flash and indirect lighting, with poor results..until the 'outdoors in the shade' tip was given to me on another forum. Direct light, such as a flash, will usually spoil the photo, but you can get very nice detail outdoors. The main problem with photographing guns, I think, is that it's all 'macro' photography. Even with a digital camera you can get decent results. The 'background'and colour of the background that the gun is photographed against also makes an astounding difference to the end result
Mike/BC
 
For small to medium size pistols a flatbed scanner will do in a pinch. You must use care when placing on the glass, then cover it with a light colored cloth. Scan then edit SN if necessary. Save the pic in your favorite format and enjoy. With this you can make great full screen backgrounds for your computer, or scale down for posting.
 
For the "quick and easy" way, try setting the gun on white or grey surface. Use diffuse light (window or overcast sky or a softbox) and add a piece of cardboard, foil or purpose-made reflector on the shadow side to fill in the shadows. Use tripod if shooting by natural light.

Colored backdrop tends to make color balancing harder.
 
Use the right kind of camera and the right kind of film. I shoot photographs to illustrate articles I sometimes write for gun magazunes, so I need to get publication reproduceable quality.
Use a quality Sinle Lens Refkex camera with a macro extreme close up lens. I use a Cannon A-1 with a 100mm macro lens. An equivalent Nikon or Minolta setup wiuld work just as well/
If you use color fim most magazines say that ASA 64 gives the best results. For black and white, try the TRI X series.
If you really need good results bracket each shot by taking one ficture one stop higher and another one stop lower than recommended by your light meter. Lots of luck, Hard Ball

[This message has been edited by Hard Ball (edited May 13, 2000).]
 
Hardball. By ASA 64, am I correct in saying you mean transparency type film, rather than print film? Dumb question huh? I haven't too much luck photographing my guns, but I'll try your 100MM Macro ideas.
Paul B.
 
Yes, I meant film for slides. I use it because most magazine editors I deal with want slides rather than prints. I should have made that clear in my original post. I have made a few print photos of guns using equivalent sped print film and they have come out well.
 
The 100mm macro is definitely the most useful for 'detail' shots, but a regular 50mm normal lens will work fine for full-length shots of long guns. Just remember Oleg's advice and you'll do fine--lighting makes the photo! I used to use a Canon Tlb with a Vivitar 135mm and screw-on close-up lenses, and was able to get some near-publication-quality slides, so long as I tinkered with the lighting and got it right. Once you get that setup right it's sort of an assembly-line process; drop in next gun, verify lighting, composition, etc., replace with next gun, repeat...

Vivitar makes a cheap (app.125.00) 100mm macro that has gotten some RAVE reviews for image quality (best sources:B&H Photo, or Adorama, both in NYC). Also the aforementioned close-up lenses work pretty well @about 30.00/set.
 
FWIW, Mike is absolutely right on with his outdoors in the shade advice. Oleg and Hardball also agree with everything I've been taught. Weegee continues the parade of good advice. As for Pack Rat, I can't comment intelligibly.

In terms of film, I'd suggest Ilford's HP5 over the Tri-X, as I've found it a little contrastier, which ought to help detail. If you've got to have it in a hurry, Kodak has a film called "Black and White Plus" which is C41 chemistry and so can be done anywhere, which is the winner-hands down- of films like that, although still not as good as true B&W. There's also the issue of what kind of paper, particularly with black and white.

For color, I'd suggest Kodak's pro color negative film in a 160 speed called 160VC. VC stands for Vivid Color, which means it's contrasty and every day I see a picture of a cheetah on yellow grass that sticks out like a sore thumb taken with this film. It will show detail.

After all that, if everybody swears that Brand X ammo in weight A in style M is the only way to fly, but your gun hates it, and loves Brand Y in weight B in style N, what are you going to shoot? Same concept here. If it works for you, run with it, and to heck with what anybody else says.

Whichever way you go with the film, if you bust your butt to shoot good pictures, and then take it to Walgreen's to let some bored 17-year old watch a machine print them, you'll get crap. _NEVER_ put film into a bag with the name "Qualex" on it, unless it's Kodachrome. Find a halfway decent lab that will actually _look_ at the pictures to see if they're printed right, re-doing them as necessary. It will be more expensive, but it will be worth it.

Avoid red backgrounds especially. It drives meters crazy and will often result in a color shift.

Avoid too much white, especially if your gun is stainless or nickel. The meter won't like that, either.

Magazines love slides because they're objective. "Print it _this_ shade of red! _Just_ like the slide!" If you want your grandkids to see it, shoot Kodachrome, preferably the 25. If you're going to project it or need it in a hurry, shoot Ektachrome/Fujichrome in the E-6 chemistry, but be aware that it will break down after 7 or 8 years. Fuji's Velvia is the top gun, with exceptional saturation. The E-6 chemistry in ISO 64 is generally (not always) tungsten balanced for controlled artificial lighting, so not suitable for outdoor shooting, usually. Slide or print, shoot the slowest film you can lay your hands on, as it will be both cheaper and sharper. If you're on a tripod, and the camera is left by itself, who cares if it takes three hours for an exposure?

Morning shots tend to be "warmer" than afternoon and evening shots. Yellower, rather than blue.

Any SLR will do the trick. The more you pay for the body, the more use it's designed for, you're not paying for bells and whistles. The more you pay for the lens, the better it will be in low light/fast action, sharpness will be better on the edges, and color saturation will be better. Find an outfit that fits your hands and feels good, with comfortable controls, and forget whose name is on it, within reason. Used SLRs are an investment, lots of them are available from people who wanted autofocus, and they'll outlive you with decent care.

Also, let me echo Hardball's bracketing philosophy. The cheapest thing in your camera bag is film, and there is a reason why every pro you ever get near sounds like his camera swallowed a dozen crickets. Pro photographers are often (not always) no better than amateurs; they just shoot more film. Pictures are just like bullets: Shoot enough, and you're bound to hit something sooner or later. That's not advocating "spray and pray," rather _aimed_ shots taken leisurely to ensure one hit. The better you are, the fewer shots it takes, but imagine if you had to wait an hour to find out if you hit your target, and you knew you absolutely had to do it. You'd fire a couple just to make sure, right?

Steve
 
When photographing a silver gun, don't have the camera at 90 degrees to the gun as the flash will reflect directly back.

Shoot it at an angle so the light relects off & away. :)

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"The Gun from Down Under !"
http://www.para1911fanclub.w3.to/
E-mail hotshot_2000@hotmail.com
ICQ # 68806935
 
Wait for overcast days and you won't have shadows. If photographing in B/W, use a light blue bedsheet as a background. It'll show up as white in the photo.
 
Anybody got any tips for digital cameras? My Minolta was stolen, and right now, I've only got a Kodak digi-cam cheapie. (Saw a really nice Nikon D1 a few days ago.<drool> )

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Shoot straight & make big holes, regards, Richard at The Shottist's Center
 
Great response thus far, thank you all. Once this thread is "played out" I plan to print it for futrue reference while shooting guns. (Pun intended ;))

When it think of all the guns in the past I have owned, and worse yet built, that left me never to be photographed or poorly photographed................ :(

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Gunslinger

TFL End of Summer Meet, August 12th & 13th, 2000
 
I use a mega pixel digital camera in macro mode, no flash, and natural sunlight. A good background helps.

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"Pathfinders Light the Way!"
 
Hi Gunslinger,

I agree with almost everthing I've seen here, let's make a list!

1) Go outside!

2) Pick a sunny, to mostly sunny day. I also tend to take my best shots in the mid-morning and late afternoon. Not when the light is too "colored" but also not in the brightest part of the day either.

3) Shoot in the shade.

4) Use a tripod. Not just for stability and lack of shake, but so you can make tiny adjustments to the gun and the camera, and keep them.

5) I recommend having the gun on a relatively horizontal surface, with the sun "above and the right" or "above and to the left" at about a 45 degree angle. Then try and get the camera and tripod positioned so you are shooting almost "straight down". I seem to get the most natural depth and "shadow" detail this way. Some tilting of the resting surface is allowed to get the reflections and shadows "just right".

6) Use a relatively slow film (<=100ASA) to get the finest grain and most detail.

7) "Bracket" your shots, especially with slide film!

8) Use a good "normal" lens (like a 50mm for a 35mm camera) set to a mid-range aperture, most lens have their best performance when not at either aperture extreme. A "macro" 100mm or 200mm will make detail shots a lot easier/feasible/

9) I recommend an "interesting" background, rather than a smooth mono-colored one. If you are going to use a bedsheet, for example, at least wrinkle it up to make a varied 3-dimensional background to lay the weapon on. I like to use pieces of wood with interesting grain, cookie sheets filled with little grey pebbles or fern leaves. Not something distracting, but "interesting". Even the surface of an old road/driveway works well.

10) Don't use for your background something colored bright red, or white or black, as it may affect your camera's light meter, and give you a too bright or dark exposure. Remember that blue is often rendered white with B+W film, and lighter than normal with many color films.

11) A polorizing filter can work wonders for reducing unwanted glare, but since you are in the shade, and can move the gun and camera, you should be able to control reflections and glare that way too!

12) Have your film developed and printed by a good quality organization, and maybe have them put on a Hi-Res PhotoCD, or a cheaper PictureCD! Sure makes it easier to get them into Photoshop!

Take a look at my a few of my Knife Pictures to see what I am talking about! They are at: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/TPHaller/page2.html Notice how the grain in the blade is picked up by the light being at an angle. Notice the white reflection that runs along the brass guard and down the handle to give it dimension! Done at 10am on a sunny Sunday on my front porch, with an old Pentax MX, with SMC 50mm 1.4 lens, and cheap 100 ASA Kodak print film, and using my big cutting board as a background.

Good luck, Gunslinger! Enjoy! You can always take more pictures, later, too!

Thomas
 
See if you can find pictures by Weir of toledo .....he is the photographer who photographed Randall knives and perhaps the photo's will show you something you can use..If you can find it a book by Bob Gaddis, who is the Randall knife historian, on randall knives is chock full of his photo's.....fubsy.
 
Well, I'm certainly no expert, and you can judge my competence for yourself:
My M10-6 Project!

These were with a digital camera, which I think are great because you can get closer than you can with most pocket cameras, and closer than most SLR's unless you have macro lenses.

When I was shooting up close, I noticed that all the pictures were getting washed out from too much light.
After some experimentation, I found out that four layers of regular old masking tape over the flash reduced the amount of light to good levels.
I also photographed a couple nickel and stainless guns, and I needed six layers for those.

One side-benefit of the tape is that the emerging light is yellowish, and makes for a warmer picture.

The backround has a lot to do with the final product, use dark colors for nickel and stainless guns, and light colors for blued guns.
My first attempt of the linked pix had the gun on a maroon bath towel, WAAAAAY TOO DARK!
You couldn't make out the edges of the gun at all.

Like someone else said, it's hard to know how flash photos will turn out since you can't imagine (without all kinds of meters) what the brightness will be.

So, taking photos outside seems like a great idea, since even on a cloudy day it is much brighter out than it is in your bedroom with 4-5 100W bulbs.

Oh, and another thing, digital cameras are great in that you can see the outcome instantly and you can modify the position of the gun and the lighting right away, instead of waiting for film to come back from the lab (which also is a waste of money).
I was borrowing my Dad's digicam, but I'm gonna buy my own this summer, I just can't say enough good about them.

That's all I have, I'm still learning.
I'm printing this out too!
:) -Kframe


[This message has been edited by Kframe (edited May 14, 2000).]
 
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