Pawn Shop pick up (Arisaka) - PIC HEAVY

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BrothahHeffay

Inactive
Picked her up on Saturday for $60. Barrel shortened. Sights removed.
PROS:
No rust/pitting on action or barrel.
Perfect bore.
Beautiful machining and blueing (1942 early war)
CONS:
It's missing 1 of 4 screws for the weaver mount, they're just common allens though(?) a grip cap, and swivel stud holes are drilled but are missing (see pics).

I only own a few guns, this looks like it could be my favorite.

To Do:
New allen
New buttpad
New follower that allows closing bolt with empty magazine
Add grip cap from ebony blank
Somehow fill tapped holes on top of barrel that held rear sights
Strip, sand, dye, tung oil
**sand, polish, reblue when I've got cash**
***Same with timney cuz safety sucks with a scope***


Questions:
1) What should I do about the missing swivel studs? Front hole is chipped and oversized...
2) What follower should I get? I'm fine with filing/fitting, closest match is best.
3) Ideas for filling the barrel holes?

Open to any ideas.

pics in next post, thanks.
 
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The scope mount screws are probably either 6x40 or 6x48, whether Allen or slot head. Base screws would normally be 6x48 and scope ring screws would be 6x40. Neither size is commonly available at hardware stores, so you might have to get them from Brownells (Google).

Jim
 
Initial pictures

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It looks like a Type 99, but I can't be sure. It has been extensively modified and sporterized, so make sure of the caliber. Many of those rifles were re-barrelled or re-chambered to other calibers since both 6.5 and 7.7 ammo has often been hard or impossible to obtain. Do NOT take anyone's word for the caliber; if in ANY doubt, check with a gunsmith or do a chamber cast.

Jim
 
Correct, it is a type 99. To be frank, I'm not sure of the caliber either! :rolleyes:

It has the original barrel unfortunately, that I am sure of. Whether or not it's been set back and rechambered, I have no idea.
 
Yes, definitely a T-99, you can tell by the ejector box and hardware. There is not a closeup of the area where the receiver meets the barrel. Right at the front of the receiver, it should drop down a little to the barrel. There should be a ledge about 1/8 wide before it drops down to the chamber area of the barrel. If that is still there, it is a good bet that the barrel is original and not set back. I have done some weird stuff to 99 barrels but the choice of adaptable cartridges make exterior barrel modifications almost a sure thing. Anyway, look at some close up photos on the net and you will see the difference.
 
The barrel has not been set back but some re-chambering could be done without setting the barrel back. I still suggest a chamber cast.

Jim
 
Can I remote fire it, and check the brass to tell if it's still chambered in 7.7? I'd rather not spend $$ on just checking it out. Thanks for the help Jim.
 
It happens I have some 7.7 but just because it chambers, doesn't mean its chambered in 7.7....

Well I'm going to remote fire it tomorrow and report back.
 
For the sling holes there are probably many fixes but if it were mine I would probably drill the holes to a common dowel size and cut a section of dowel rod to be epoxied in place. After cured I would drill new holes where the dowels are and mount new sling studs.

That should cover up most of the old holes.

Midway usa probably has a similar video on youtube showing how to do it. Or at least that's what they do to fill loose recoil pads.
 
Nice catch, stock alone is worth $60.00. Just cause it has a 99 type floor plate doesn't mean its a T-99. When I purchased my sporterized T-38 it had a 99 floor installed. The 99 floor plates were hinged and added to many sporterized T-38's back in the day. Best make a chamber casting to determine the caliber, only sure way to determine the caliber. So many things were done to these Arisaka's.

Also, the stock can be sanded down to remove those chips. Used a water base stain when finishing the stock.
 
Blindstitch that's how I now plan on filling the 2 holes.

Watchelhund1 it is a T99, has only 1 gas vent, and a T99 bolt and everything. I have another 99 so I'm sure.

I know 30-06 would be loose but I won't mind. After trying a 7.7 I'll try 30-06.
 
BrothahHeffay said:
I know 30-06 would be loose but I won't mind. After trying a 7.7 I'll try 30-06.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily a problem if you hand load. You can seat a 0.311" bullet into a 06 casing.

A chamber cast is the best thing to do, and you can do it yourself. It's not that hard. But if you are quite sure it would be either 06 or 7.7, chambering each will tell immediately.

-TL
 
Not a lot of options to recut the chamber on a 7.7 without setting the barrel back. I had two in 30-06, one cut by the US Military. This can be done without setting the barrel back. I have used the barrels for :300 SAV, .308 WIN, 7.62x39, 7.65 Mauser, 7.62x54R, 7.63x25 Mauser and maybe a couple I do not remember. All needed a setback or inner or outer sleeveing. I would try inserting a 30-06 with my fingers. If it did not fit, it is a good bet it is untouched. I really can not think of anything common that would clean up the original chamber area. If you have a 7.7 shell, glue a couple round shims to the back and see if you can get it to not lock up. May need quite a few, as commercial 7.7 brass is pretty undersize.
If you look at your barrel, the area I was talking about has a "Timing mark" stamped on it. This area is turned down so you can turn the barrel in further. It looks factory to me.
 
That's what I was thinking. I'll shoot 7.7 today and I'll have a 30-06 round to test chamber on Saturday.

I have a feeling its still in 7.7
 
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