patch lube

Whatever the yella stuff is on the ox yokes.

Tried making my own from pillow ticking and mink's fat. They were done "blown through" as it were when I picked up the fired patch. Went back to ox yoke.
 
years ago CVA made a good patch grease in a squeeze tube. Haven't made it for some time
I still got about 1/2 tube left

wonder wad 1000 works it's a paste form
Thompson bore lube will work, but I feel it is a bit soft.

or make your own
basic formula melted 1/2 beeswax 1/2 lard ( which is tallow depends on the animal it comes from)
if too thick add more lard too thin more beeswax,
Lot of people add other exotic things (mink oil, pine.oil. paraffin etc) that really are not needed
 
Just too many options and all claim to be the best

what are you guys using for patch lube with patch and ball loads ?
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I use wonder lube or bore butter or whatever new name they come up with. They are all basically tallow with additives. I shoot with some folks that use their spit and swear by it. Can't knock what works for them ...... :D

Be Safe !!!
 
Beeswax and olive oil but I have substituted Crisco for the olive oil. My patches will scorch a little but never had one come close to burning through.
 
Unicorn tears. You have to kick them a lot just to get enough for a few loads though. Bees wax and olive oil works good too.
 
If I'm in a load-and-shoot situation such as a match, I moisten them with moose milk, TC#13 or some other water based bore cleaner. Generally keeps me from having to swab the bore the entire match. If it's going to possibly stay loaded for a while usually bore butter or ox-yoke pre-lubed patches whatever they use.
 
Not at all into homemade pach lube/s here.

Just saying.
Warm months Shenandoah Valley Patch Lube. (unscented liquid) Cold months TOTWs Trapper's MINK OIL Patching Lube. (almost scent free.)

For many years I used Ox Yoke Wonder Lube. A mediocre patch lube~~ but like all other stinky wintergreen greasy lubes it too has its limitations.

Actually~~Climate determine's your patch lube.

The ideal patch lube doesn't thin to a oil in the heat or turn to a hard wax like substance in the cold. Nor should it stink of a repulsive cover scent (wintergreen.) If only those patch lube manufactures were on the ball. They'd taint their patch lube with anise oil or molasses. Both attractants in the animal world not a repulser of which wintergreen is.
 
Short of plain`ol spit patch, the UNIVERSAL/hot/cold/wet/dry patch lube is;

- 7:1 water/water-soluble Cutting Oil on ticking strips
- Squeegeed all-but dry between paper towels/rolling pin
- Final dry in warm oven.

Fold it into Altoids tins and it lasts forever until use.

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- 7:1 water/water-soluble Cutting Oil on ticking strips
- Squeegeed all-but dry between paper towels/rolling pin
- Final dry in warm oven.
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I have started doing that but instead of water soluble cutting oil, I use Ballistol mixed with water. Soak the patching material with that and blot it dry and then just hang it up so the water evaporates.
I use the TLAR method of mixing it up. (that looks about right) The water is just a vehicle to deposit a light and uniform coating of lube without saturating it with lube. In my experience the sky does not fall if the ratio is a little off.
 
how well would equal parts canola oil and water work sprayed on a patch and squeeze out the excess between your fingers for at the range ?
 
Canola oil won't mix with water. Ballistol and cutting oil both form an emulsion in water. Ballistol mixed with water looks like milk, so does cutting oil, hence the nickname "moose milk".

The idea is to dilute the oil with water so when the water dries, you are left with a thin but uniform amount of lube on the patch.
You could probably cut the canola oil with some sort of solvent like acetone and do the same thing, the acetone dissolves the oil and evaporates leaving a thin and uniform coating of oil.
 
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