parkerized touchups!?!?
- Thread starter jumpcut
- Start date
slickpuppy
New member
Only with a cold bluing agent and that won't match the texture of your original finish very well.
I don't know what type of firearm you have, but, if it is a Glock you will have a very lengthy application process to get rid of any scratches or mars.
With Glocks I have used a Hubbard Hall product called Black Magic - a cold blue agent that imparts a black finish. It is resold by Kleenbore in small quantities to the general public. HH won't deal with the general public. The only problem is that it will take around 30 to 40 applications to get it to take on the Glock due to the underlying tenifer. With other guns the application results are immediate - about a minute.
When you phosphate the finish it is actually a two step process in which you must keep the chemicals at a relatively high, constant temperature for the best results. Touchups may be possible, but, I wouldn't want to try it myself. The application would need to be local to the scratched area and you may not get a perfect match with the surrounding area - if you get it on the good parts it will work the phosphate in those areas too. Plus, the chemicals are some pretty vicious acids that you don't want to play with. I did a few slides and decided it wasn't something I really wanted to do after that.
I don't know what type of firearm you have, but, if it is a Glock you will have a very lengthy application process to get rid of any scratches or mars.
With Glocks I have used a Hubbard Hall product called Black Magic - a cold blue agent that imparts a black finish. It is resold by Kleenbore in small quantities to the general public. HH won't deal with the general public. The only problem is that it will take around 30 to 40 applications to get it to take on the Glock due to the underlying tenifer. With other guns the application results are immediate - about a minute.
When you phosphate the finish it is actually a two step process in which you must keep the chemicals at a relatively high, constant temperature for the best results. Touchups may be possible, but, I wouldn't want to try it myself. The application would need to be local to the scratched area and you may not get a perfect match with the surrounding area - if you get it on the good parts it will work the phosphate in those areas too. Plus, the chemicals are some pretty vicious acids that you don't want to play with. I did a few slides and decided it wasn't something I really wanted to do after that.
slickpuppy
New member
I forgot to mention
The two step process I was referring to implements a pre-dip blackener so that the finished parts will have a nice deep black finish. If you don't do that step your phosphate job will usually be a grayish tone.
The two step process I was referring to implements a pre-dip blackener so that the finished parts will have a nice deep black finish. If you don't do that step your phosphate job will usually be a grayish tone.
It depends on the nature of the scratch. I have sucessfully touched up parkerized guns with a dark finish using Birchwood Casey's Super Blue on a Q-Tip, lightly moistened. Too much and you'll just get a brilliant blue scratch instead of a white one.
I've used the same procedure on Glocks. The scratches completely disappear! The hardest finishes to touch up IMHO are light grey parkerizing and polished blue. Anything you do to it will stand out.
I've used the same procedure on Glocks. The scratches completely disappear! The hardest finishes to touch up IMHO are light grey parkerizing and polished blue. Anything you do to it will stand out.