Parkerized Finish

C

cshreffler

Inactive
I recently purchased a Springfield Armory Mil Spec, 1911 with a Parkerized finish. While I love the firearm, I'm having a really hard time keeping the gun clean.

The first time I holstered the gun I was rewarded with a transfer scratch from a rivet on my jeans.

(To quantify: by transfer scratch, I mean material from another piece of metal has transferred to the finish of my gun. The gun is not actually scratched.)

The first time I shot the gun at the range I noticed little brass colored dots appearing on the upper just to the rear of the ejection port. I'm assuming the casings are spinning out of the ejection port and dinging the parkerized finish as they clear the gun.

Then to add insult to injury; the first time I cleaned the gun after the range I tried to 'buff' these dings off the finish with a lightly applied brass brush only to find the brass brush transferring to the parkerized finish as well!!!!!

I know many other people own these fine hand-guns and that this finish has been around for quite some time. But what am I missing here!?!?

If you have any suggestions on how I can get rid of these metal transfers or better care for the gun, I'd be extremely grateful.
 
It's called "patina" and the look of being USED! My Mil-Spec does the same thing with regards to the brass marks at the ejection port. Clean the pistol, shoot it, clean it, shoot it, carry it. That's why we buy them. If you prefer not to mark them up buy new:D place in safe:confused: and don't touch them after that:(.
 
Cold blue or a copper solvent will remove the brass and copper marks without damaging the parkerizing. Use a rag, not a brush. Give it a little time and it will dissolve the mark. Don't worry about it too much. Keep a good coat of oil of the parkerizing and you will have no problems. The miltary selected parkerizing for a good reason. It's not for looks.
 
Thanks very much for the suggestions. You are right, it isn't about looks, never the less, I want to keep it looking 'clean'. Scratches detract from the aesthetics of the piece.
 
Cold bluing won't remove anything. Regular solvent with a cleaning patch will though.
As mentioned, parkerizing was used because it holds oil well. Wipe your pistol with an oiled(lightly oiled), lint free, cloth after cleaning. It'll eventually get very dark just like any M1 rifle.
"...not actually scratched..." That's good. There is no touching up parkerizing. Cold bluing will cover any real scratches you do get though. Dosen't protect as well, but it's better than nothing.
 
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