Parker-Hale bolt
- Thread starter nbknnt
- Start date
Thank you; need more help
Thank you for your answer. Sorry not to have responded equally quickly, but I've been away.
My bolt is like the Mauser 98 in the photo you posted.
Can you help me with getting it functional again?
I've been looking through my own and friends' take-down diagrams/instructions, and can't find out what to do,
As it stands now, the rear, spring-loaded, part of the bolt doesn't go all the way down the camming notch (that's what I'm calling it, for want of the correct term), nor does it sit clear of the notch. Sorry if I'm using incorrect nomenclature, but can't find any diagrams, part lists, etc, that tell me the right names.
Thank you for your answer. Sorry not to have responded equally quickly, but I've been away.
My bolt is like the Mauser 98 in the photo you posted.
Can you help me with getting it functional again?
I've been looking through my own and friends' take-down diagrams/instructions, and can't find out what to do,
As it stands now, the rear, spring-loaded, part of the bolt doesn't go all the way down the camming notch (that's what I'm calling it, for want of the correct term), nor does it sit clear of the notch. Sorry if I'm using incorrect nomenclature, but can't find any diagrams, part lists, etc, that tell me the right names.
OK, take-down is relatively easy.
- If there is a hole in the cocking piece it is easier, but if your rifle has a notch in the cocking piece for a two-stage trigger it is still easy. If the cocking piece is flat on the bottom, pull it back far enough to put a small nail or allen wrench through the hole to hold the bolt in the cocked position. If the cocking piece has a notch in the bottom, pull the cocking piece to the rear as you unscrew the shroud.
- On the left side of the bolt shroud, there is a button that sticks out (shroud lock). Push it in and unscrew the bolt shroud. You should be able to draw the firing pin out of the bolt.
- Inspect the firing pin. The tip should be about 1/4" long, smoothly rounded on the end.
- Inspect the inside of the bolt. This almost sounds like a broken firing pin spring, but make sure there is nothing blocking the inside of the bolt.
If there is nothing that immediately looks broken or bent, take the rifle to a smith and let him work on it or take some pictures and post them so we can tell what may be wrong.
- If there is a hole in the cocking piece it is easier, but if your rifle has a notch in the cocking piece for a two-stage trigger it is still easy. If the cocking piece is flat on the bottom, pull it back far enough to put a small nail or allen wrench through the hole to hold the bolt in the cocked position. If the cocking piece has a notch in the bottom, pull the cocking piece to the rear as you unscrew the shroud.
- On the left side of the bolt shroud, there is a button that sticks out (shroud lock). Push it in and unscrew the bolt shroud. You should be able to draw the firing pin out of the bolt.
- Inspect the firing pin. The tip should be about 1/4" long, smoothly rounded on the end.
- Inspect the inside of the bolt. This almost sounds like a broken firing pin spring, but make sure there is nothing blocking the inside of the bolt.
If there is nothing that immediately looks broken or bent, take the rifle to a smith and let him work on it or take some pictures and post them so we can tell what may be wrong.
ForneyRider
New member
I used the disassembly/assembly page for Mauser 98 for my Parker Hale 1200 Deluxe 7mm Mag.
Recently, I had the bolt body replaced with one from a Interarms Mk X.
These 2 guns are sporterized Mauser 98.
Harry Bonar
New member
bolt
Sir:
I had a fellow bring one in (98 Mauser) years ago with the same problem - he didn't have the striker assy. screwed clear in.
Harry B.
Sir:
I had a fellow bring one in (98 Mauser) years ago with the same problem - he didn't have the striker assy. screwed clear in.
Harry B.