ParaOrdnance limited reciever disassembly?

ChrisR

Inactive
I own a ParaOrdnance P16 40 limited and can strip the gun, disassemble the slide, but I have little idea about the proceedure to disassemble the reciever. Today I took out the mainspring housing and sear spring (three fingered sprung steel) but could not see how to proceed. According to general 1911 disassebly the next step is to remove the safety catch by moving it "up and out". However on the ParaOrdnance limited the safety is ambi and so the pivot runs through the frame... and I cannot see how one removes it. Does anyone want to give me a blow by blow account of how this is done (I'd really appreciate it) or perhaps there is some online reference though I have'nt had any luck. The reason for all this is that I'd like to be able to maintain my own pistol and I'd like to replace the stock hammer and sear in the near future also.

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Chris, disassembly of the para frame is the same as any 1911. The first step is to remove the thumb safety. Cock the hammer, bring the left or single safety side of the safety to about half way between on and off and wriggle it out to the left. Inside the frame the two sides of the ambi are connected by a slot and tennon. If it is a tight fit it may require a little more wriggling and pulling power but it will come out. Then remove the right or ambi side. George
 
In addition to what George said, the saftey will probably be hard to separate. You will need to get some felt covered or protected pliers to help out and prevent from damaging the metal.

-CAL
 
Chris:

There are several books and videos that cover assembly/disassembly of M1911s. I suggest you get some -- they helped me a bunch. It's easy to bugger something up if you don't know what you're doing, and gun parts cost more than books. Brownells has some and so does Wilson Combat.

M1911

[This message has been edited by M1911 (edited November 10, 2000).]
 
Thanks for all the replys. I am hearing a little contradicting info however. Some other people have said that the first step is to remove the right panel grip and remove the right side thumb safety lever.
Then cock the hammer and you can work the left side (right thumb) lever out. Can someone clear this up for me. In addition, when you lift the safety to the half on position, is that just one side or must both sides rotate up to the half on position (that is to say, is the connecting link untwisting somehow and this point)?
Thankyou again.
Chris.
 
Chris, it depends on how your safety is held in place. If the right side is held by the grip panel then removing it first is fine. If it is held by the sear pin then the left side has to be removed first. And if they are still together, when you lift the left side to the midway position the right side will move right along with it. George
 
Keep in mind!!!

Assuming the top end is off and your rareing to go but havent yet pulled the safety (ambi or otherwise). Get the panels off, both sides, no reason to leave them on.
Half cock.
rotate safety to half. Make sure you have the receiver muzzle end pointing away from you and the hammer end aimed at your chest reason being is when you part the left and right safety pieces there is the spring and detent pin on the left that will launch about half way to dallas texas and with the frame positioned with the hammer end toward your chest the pin and spring should drop dead when it hits you. I usually try to direct it into a bib and let it fall to the bench. When your pulling your safety apart there can be a lot of tugging going on. Try to resist prying with your little screw driver because it will marr, and doesnt make you feel good when you see it afterwards, the two pieces is a slot and tenen (male female) union and your just tugging them outward and apart. When the part its sometimes by surprise and if not eased apart you immediately release the spring and pin. When it happens it can all happens in one motion and keeping track of where the pin land can be a real frustrating event (it will be somewhere in the same room). If you tug very firmly but feeling for separaation you will be able to keep the pin in place then just pull it out after the safty sides are apart and on the bench. The rest is a piece of cake, Mainspring housing out, sear pin, hammer pin, etc. just lay them in the order you remove them and all the pices reasseble in reverse.
You can pull tjhe trigger after rotating the slide release screw and removing it to the left, the trigger and stirrup all slide out the rear.thats if you want to break it all the way down. No reason to other than just doing it for the experience and seeing it happen.
Its all very simple, which is the beauty of the 1911 design.
Let me know how you makae out.
tom
 
TGS is correct if the detent is not properly captured by the spring & the spring doesn't have the proper "kink" in the middle. If so, you need to carefully kink the spring so that it has enough drag to remain in the plunger tube untill you want to remove it. The inner end of the plungers have a small "head" that should snap into the spring with a little hand pressure, then remain captive. End of problem.
 
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