Painting an AR

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bjones870

New member
I've seen a lot of pictures, and people at the range, with the painted AR's. I'm sure you've seen them somewhere. What kind of paint do people use? Is it just spray paint, or something similar? I'm not necessarily looking to do it, just interested in learning more.
 
A lot of people use Krylon's camo colors. You can use Duracoat or Cerakote if you want something more durable, but they are more $ and a little more involved. Krylon can be removed fairly easily if you decide you don't like the paint or want to sell it.
 
Ive always used Testors Military Flats model paints. Lately though, Ive been using Krylon as well.

I use a spray for the base, usually in the lightest color in the pattern. Then, depending on the pattern, I use spray and/or a brush.
 
Ok, thanks for the replies! I'll look into the Krylon. How would I take it off if I decided I didn't like it? Thanks!
 
I usually use either Hoppes and/or Gun Scrubber. It takes a little elbow grease too, and fine steel wool is also a big help.

Theres no doubt, it involves some work.
 
Duracoat is more durable...
I've done two four rifles (Rem 700, AK-47, Mosin sporter, Mini-14 in Tapco stock) with Krylon Camo, overcoated with Matte Clearcoat and they've held up just fine, save for a few nicks here and there...

These are all bench guns, and don't get subjected to a lot of abuse.

If the gun's going to see a lot of abrasion (like handguns in/out of holsters, or brush guns) the Duracoat is a two-part finish that is harder and more durable.
 
I've used Krylon on some beater Mausers. It looks pretty good but scratches/dings easily. On the plus side, it's fairly easy to recover if that happens. I would not even consider trying to remove a good coat of Krylon from all the nooks and crannies of an AR. You won't like what you have left.
 
Technosavant said:
I've used Duracoat. Works pretty well. It's not quite as easy as Krylon, but it works well in this application.
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Duracoat is a very good product. The last rifle I painted I used Aluma-hyde. It's a rattle can paint so it's quick and easy. Several very light coats and then a long drying time you get a very durable finish. I have used Krylon on gun parts before and even with the best prep it seems to scratch or chip very easy. Krylon does stick pretty well on fiberglass stocks.
 
I have used Krylon with good effect on some of my stuff.

A few years ago I painted one of uncle sam's M4s with "bowflage" (not sure if its made anymore) an allegedly easy to remove paint. Did very well over 8mos of daily wear and tear in A-stan and was a bear to remove after return CONUS.
 
I color matched the Foliage Green furniture with fast dry auto paint. I believe it's just lacquer based, it comes off easily with spirits. I used Matte Clear Krylon to finish, as it is a protective overcoat and reduces shine.

Use solvents to prep clean the anodizing, and DON'T remove it, as it is the recommended and preferred primer on aluminum for commercial heavy duty use. Plus, when the paint does get worn, it stops at the milspec anodizing, not a shiny sanded aluminum bright spot that constantly leaves black marks on everything.

What I used can be stripped with a couple of pints of thinner, and it's still good to go, not a part in white needing another coat of paint, or $80 and eight weeks at an anodizer. No, I don't know what some were thinking. These days, it's IS cheaper to just buy another stripped lower or upper compared to that. Must be Rollmark Fever.
 
Duracoat.

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