Painting a barrel

E

emmasis

Inactive
I just got a barrel put on my SAR-* and it is stainless.
Does anyone know what kind of paint to use?
I have painted cars so I am not worried about how, just need to know the paint they use.
Thanks,
Terrance

BTW they wanted to charge me $250.00 to paint it
 
Above post is good, so is Dura-Coat, which does not need baking. More important is prep. Blasting with carbide is good, and followed with Parkerizing before painting is best, but not necessary.

Check out Dura-Coat for videos. You could use similar techniques with other coatings.
 
omg i didnt know u could buy firearm paint in a spray can like that! it has to be so much easier and probly more durable than cold blue! and its cheaper i usually go through two 3.oz bottles of birchwood casey on 1 long gun. im building a turkish mauser sporter and im so ganna try the semi gloss black on my gun. im in love with you fellow members at the firing line! but theres only one drawback that i can see. will the aluma hide flake off from shooting a highpowerd rifle over and over again (you know how hot that barrel gets!)? i doubt it does because its epoxy and they use freggin epoxy in nucular plants!.
 
Just be careful not to paint up the parts that need to move. I bought a Rem 700 a while back that had been painted. It took almost two quarts of stripper to get the bolt freed up. Someone had broken the bolt handle off by hammering on it trying to free it up.
 
Well he said stainless, so park undercoat is out. Bead blasting/degreasing would surely make any paint stick better to the steel. I am wondering about high temperatures. It is a semi auto, right? Might get alot of rapid fire some time and barrels on a hot day can get pretty hot. Some kind of paint that is hi temp rated might be advisible in that case? Maybe some of the stuff you bake on. That makes it durable, and if it can stand baking, it could stand a hot barrel, I think?
 
Use Gunkote! It's not super user freindly but it'll never flake or peel and barrel heat has no effect on it. (Unless it exceeds 800 degrees!!) You can also use the Gunkote Molly finish for internal moving parts including trigger mechanisms and bolt parts. A little bit of use causes it to burnish to a perfect fit and will make it smoother than original. Acetone, cat urine, battery acid, blood, sweat and tears all have no effect on it. (Yes, we get a fair number of handguns in here that had the finish destroyed by cat urine...usually the girlfriends cat) Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
I really like the Duracoat product. I don't use their templates , I just use natural brush like ferns and such to save a buck. It's tough stuff! :cool:
 
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I read up on both of them and they need to be baked, My barrel is on the gun I need something with a fast hardening rate that is durable....anyone?

HELP!

Terrance
 
A lot of people, including myself, use Krylon. They make camo paints in spray bombs. I don't know how much heat they will take, not a lot of fire-fights in the woods. For general range and hunting purposes they work fine.
 
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