P95 trigger creep - How do I fix it?

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AutoPistola

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Do I polish the hammer/sear? Or modify the trigger bar? I don't have a sear angle jig, but I think I'm capable of detail stripping the gun with a little experimentation (preferably instruction). I'd like to smooth things out (get rid of creep) and shorten the reset, if possible.

And please don't tell me to "just buy an ______ instead", I have lots of pistols with crisp triggers and happen to like my P95.
 
Now that just makes me want to mess with it. I already know how to strip an S&W 59 series and a Witness, so how much harder can this be? I'm not going to make drastic changes to the sear or hammer notch.
 
You might get some information at www.rugerforum.net. I just bought a P94 last week for $226.00 on Gunbroker and love it. The trigger is decent for a service gun (not great - needs improvement) and it is very accurate - good sights too! Some time I will have a trigger job done on it by a gunsmith as I am not adventerous enough to try it myself and there are several talented, reasonably priced gunsmiths in my area (including Novak) whom I entrust most of my triggers to except for Glocks and S&W M&P autos which I do myself. I would not say you should or should not work with your trigger as I don't know your talents all I would say is please go slowly, carefully and always remember that it's ok to be too cautious.
 
Yeah, the P series is a rather unique internal design. I couldn't find much on ruger forum as to chronological dissassembly. I'm rather mechanically inclined, so hopefully taking it apart won't be too hard. It does look like a pain to put back together, though. The ejector plate is something else; looks like it has a complicated relationship with the decocker/trigger safety unit. Easy enough to take apart, I'm sure *Sproing* Oops.....:eek:

Hammer/plunger must be removed after the forementioned parts, and has a one-way pin holding it in, which may need to be pryed slightly.
 
Got the bug to disassemble it tonight, but I decided not to remove the ejector plate and hammer. The problem, I'm sure, is some pitting on the hammer, that is, the portion of the hammer which slides on the sear (right before the sear notch.The trigger feel is kind of "two-stage" military style, but creeps bad in SA mode right before it disengages the sear and is a little inconsistent.

Here's how I did it:
1. remove hammerspring/strut from bottom
2. remove sear
3. remove decocking unit
4. figure out how all this stuff works together (to 20min)
5. Give up on removing the hammer, as its axis seems to be designed for permanant placement. I wouldn't be suprised if ruger glued that pin with epoxy.

With some dexterity and a small polishing tool, I can smooth things out a little, which is all I want; no need to remove the hammer, as I'm not modifiying its sear notch at all. I'll just pull the hammer back while carefully polishing, being sure not to polish the left 1/3 of the hammer, which deactivates the firing pin safety.
 
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