P38 Dilema

Doc Hoy

New member
Actually is a P1 from July 1958.

Bought the thing online (Gunbroker) and put about fifty rounds through it when it quit cycling.

Found that the extractor, extractor plunger and plunger spring were completely gone.

Figure the odds of finding such tiny parts in four inch grass.

Bought the parts online only to find that the plunger spring and plunger were WAY too short. too short for the tip to extend past the rim of the hole that it is intended to fit into. No way would it bear on the extractor.

Called up the vendor and got into a long and interesting discussion about how some P38 (1)s are fitted with a second plunger at the bottom of the spring. I never thought to ask him to send me the right parts.

It got to be a challenge so I made a longer plunger and a bottom plunger for the pistol. Just so happens that welding rod is the perfect diameter.

Reassembled the pistol. Extractor tension appears good. Cycled three rounds without a hiccup.

I probly should buy spares (of the proper design) but for now, I am going to see how long the welding rod lasts.

I'll post some photos a little later.
 
I am no expert on the P-38/P-1 ( I have only 1). I wonder if the cross bolt in the frame of the P-1 has something to do with it. I was going to buy a 22 conversion unit for my 1943 Walther when the vendor informed they don't fit on the steel frames because they are designed for the crossbolt.
 
Hmmm Could be.

I am no expert either.

I never had one apart until I bought this one.

I discussed making the plunger for it with the Gunsmith at Sarco (Vendor who sold me the parts.) He did not seem to imply any special hardening requirements.
 
Here are some photos

These are the plungers I made along with the extractor and spring.



Started out with a welding rod.



Cut a taper on the end

 
Last two photos

This is hard to see but there is a notch on the tip to make it easier to get the plungers shoved back into the socket to get the extractor free. Just notched it wif a file.



And then cut the shank to fit into the spring.



Fun project. I hope it lasts.
 
Good Old Sarco. Got my 1943 Walther cheap because the safety was "broken"
-the firing pin was broken. Hied myself to Sarco, got a replacement firing pin-they asked it if was wartime or postwar. A half hour or so of work in their lunchroom got it working fine.
 
I don't fault them....

...for not offering to send the right parts.

By the time I got to talk to the gunsmith, the idea of buying or selling parts was way on the back burner.

I suppose he might have been expected to assume that the parts were wrong and that the parts were purchased from Sarco.

He offered to fix the pistol for the cost of parts plus shipping.

I told him I wanted to take a stab at it.

I'll prolly deal with them again.
 
Plungers don't really need hardening. If it had been the extractor itself, then it would have needed to be quenched and tempered, since it is a high wear item.
 
There are two plungers, with the spring between them. The front one tensions the extractor, the rear one is a detent plunger for the safety. It is possible that gun had no rear plunger when you got it and without the proper tension the extractor would be loose and could be lost, or that both plungers and the spring were lost. Either way, it sounds like the problem is solved.

(FWIW, installation involves installing the safety, then the rear plunger, then the spring and front plunger. The extractor is then used to push the front plunger in until the extractor will hook into the slide and the front plunger snap in place to hold it.)

Jim
 
Good info...

Yes, putting it back together is relatively simple.

Taking it apart is a little harder because of having to push the plunger back past the extractor if the dust cover is not removed.

A video on the net shows the removal process pretty well. The guy in the video has the dust cover off. He presses against the base of the extractor and pops the extractor out while being careful not to allow the plunger and spring to fly across the room.
 
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