P1/P38 vs year old Frog Lube

AK103K

New member
Just got back from the range with my old P1. Its a fun blaster, and I dont really get out with it all that much, and I realize now, I need to do it more often.

Last I remember shooting it, was about a year ago. I was still using Frog Lube then, and thats what it was last cleaned with. Its been in the safe ever since.

Sooo, I load her up at the range, and the first round stove pipes. Hmm, thats a first. Clear it, and second round does the same. Third round short strokes, next round stovepipes again, and on and on it goes, for four full mags. Random and alternating stove pipes and short strokes.

Somewhere in mag five, it starts to run better, and I notice the FL getting "wet". After that, it ran fine, for another 60 rounds or so, like its supposed to, and like nothing ever happened.

Now, this gun has always worked fine in the past. Having had issues with FL in the past, especially in my revolvers, Im pretty sure it was the source of the problems here today. Along with the function issues, I also noticed some light rust on the locking block, something I also noticed with my Model 28 S&W after using FL with it. Nothing heavy or really concerning, but it was there all the same.

So, just a heads up. If youre using FL, and have let things sit, it might pay to clean and relube prior to use, or you may be in for a surprise, especially if youre counting on it for anything serious.
 
If youre using FL, and have let things sit, it might pay to clean and relube prior to use, or you may be in for a surprise, especially if youre counting on it for anything serious.

+100. For a long time my nightstand gun was an HK P2000. I used to field strip it monthly, re-lube, and go about my business. After a good 8 months I realized I hadn't shot it (seriously remiss, I know). I brought it to the range in February, loaded up some mags, pulled the trigger, and click. Time after time and just click. Whether in DA or SA I couldn't get a strong enough hit to ignite a primer, even Gold Dots. Upon a full disassembly I discovered the issue. When I lubed the pistol I applied a light coat of FrogLube to the underside of the slide that rides over the hammer and cocks the pistol when cycling. In that process the FrogLube had leaked down the firing pin block and into the firing pin channel. In the safe in my basement the FrogLube had congealed in the cold and was retarding the motion of the firing pin. Had someone broken in during that time and had I needed to take a shot to defend myself, I would have been screwed. Now I function check all pistols after lubing with the old pencil test, but I have also gone away from FrogLube to Slip 2000. It has more staying power than Breakfree but doesn't seem to change consistency. With the swings in temperature where I live FrogLube just didn't work for me.
 
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I have heard mixed things about Frog lube, but I have never used it. I use MPro-7 cleaner, and lube exclusively, and my guns run 100% even after sitting for long periods of time. I had a bad experience with Tetra grease actually congealing, and starting to rust the rails of a pistol after sitting for some time, so I stopped using it long ago.
 
I used FL for awhile, and gave it a good try. It seems to work OK, if youre using it regularly, and dont let things sit. I was a little surprised with the rust issue, as it happened with my 28 in a very short time.

Its also a bit pricey, especially if youre shooting and cleaning all the time. The bottles are small (even the large ones), and it goes fast.
 
To me that is a fatal flaw with Frog Lube and I would never use it nor recommend it. I have had guns in the safe for 3 or more years that worked perfectly when going to the range.

A firearm lube should not congeal like that to the point of rendering a firearm to paper weight status. Too many other quality lubes, including milspec rated ones, available that to do not do that.

Lot's of similar reports like the OP about Frog Lube.

http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/19112-froglube-fail-x2.html
 
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