Mike,
I own one, but usually only use it on the most extreme metal fouling build-up in old rough barreled military guns and the like. It takes a number of hours to work. You can't use it in a gas gun without plugging the gas port. You also have to know that a gun with any rust in the bore will contaminate the electrolyte in a way that allows it to etch the steel instead of just removing metal fouling, so you have to check the color of the liquid to be sure that isn't happening.
The patent ran out on this device last year, and you don't see anyone jumping in with another version. I think the reason is that the cleaning chemicals are getting so much more sophisticated, and they are less bother to use. The Wipe Out brand has been very successful, and they have a separate special lead remover now. BoreTech Elimenator is another. KG-12, sold by Jim Owens (jarheadtop.com) is probably the most dramatically effective copper remover. All these are water-base and non-rusting.
Merrill Martin reported some years ago being able to make out bronze brush marks in bores with a bore scope, and recommended finding ways to work without a brush. He would put a one-size too small brush on his cleaning rod and wrap a couple of patches around it and use it with what is now called Remington 40X cleaner. But none of the water-based chelating chemistries for removing metal fouling were available when he wrote that.
I shoot moly too. I found my AR barrel tends to get a build-up if carbon and moly mix at the corner where the neck portion of the chamber ends and the freebore begins. I was unable to remove it by Martin's method or with a chamber brush. Too hard. I bought a bottle of
Gunzilla at Camp Perry in 2006 and started using it. One patch loose on an eyelet jag and an overnight soak. Two more patches the next day and the borescope showed every trace was gone. Gunzilla is vegetable oil based and is designed to break down bonds in carbon and other non-metallic fouling. It was designed for armorers who clean lots of guns and whose skin is damaged by the chemicals. This stuff is easy on the hands. It seems to turn hard-caked carbon into soft sludge that wipes away, even when moly is in it. It leaves a lubricating film behind when it dries.
Anyway, I think you'll find the cleaning products I mentioned are fast, except the overnight in Gunzilla. But if you're willing to set up and wait for the Foul Out to finish (2 to 4 hours, plus checking the rod for build-up to clear it of short circuiting metal deposits), then just letting the gun rest overnight isn't a big deal. But if you insist, check my do-it-yourself design at Father Frog's,
here. Use it with neoprene stoppers, a stainless weld rod electrode and O-rings to center the rod and buy just the solutions from Outers. There is also a recipe for the original Outers solutions on
the page.
