Old Ruger Single 6

B

bailey bud

New member
What's the wisdom on an unaltered 3 screw Ruger Single Six? (excellent cond - dont' even think it's had a hundred rounds through it)

How important is it to "fix" the firearm?

My sons and I target shoot --- that's pretty much it. I'm not interested in carrying a revolver, so I don't see much risk with a non-modified revolver.

However - Ruger seems to be relatively assertive about their notices, suggesting they really want to see the modifications done (no other repair work allowed, unless the safety modification is done).
 
There is more value in an "Un-modified" 3-screw. If the factory safety modification is what you're calling a "fix", I'd keep it original. If, down the road sometime you need a true repair, Ruger will preform the transfer-bar-up-date, along with the repair. In years past they used to return the original parts. I don't know if this is still the case.
 
bailey bid said:
How important is it to "fix" the firearm?
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Is it broken?

If it's broken, have it repaired.

If it's an original three screw with a real, honest-to-God firing pin -- it isn't broken, so what's to "fix"?
 
I wouldn't send it back to Ruger, if you decide to carry it for whatever reason, just keep the hammer resting on an empty chamber. It's worth more with out the update.

Stu
 
Ruger is required by the terms of the settlement they entered into (the one that created the "new model" design) to convert ALL "old model" guns to the "new model" system.

If Ruger gets their hands on your gun, for any reason, they will convert it. You don't have a choice in the matter. And, neither do they.

Traditionalists put a premium on unconverted "old model" Rugers, and many say they have better trigger pulls than the converted guns.

There is nothing "broken" about your gun, it just uses the colt style operating system. Perfectly safe, provided the gun is operated correctly. And there's the rub, with the new model operating system, its "safer" and very difficult to operate incorrectly.

However it is different from the old system, there is no half cock position for the hammer, (none needed), opening the loading gate frees the cylinder to rotate, and the firing pin is in the frame, with the hammer only contacting the transfer bar to fire the gun when the trigger is pulled (and held back).

I have 9 Ruger new model single actions, including a Super Single Six. I am quite used to the manual of arms for these guns, and actually prefer it to the original colt style system. For one thing, new model Rugers are fully safe to carry with all chambers loaded, which the old models are not. With the old model action, you must, to be safe" carry the gun with an empty chamber under the hammer.
 
ruger

my ole man has one he has had for about 35 year's and he got all the notice's ,and would never change it over .it is worth a lot more thw way it is .
 
Bought my Single Six new in 1960 and never had it converted. It's still one of my favorites.

Guns022.jpg
 
Ruger sends the original parts back with the firearm, takes no more ( and a very easy job )than 5 minutes to put the original parts back in if so desired. When I gave my S/6 to my son, the Ruger parts were in the box. Then if he ever decides he wants to carry out in the bad lands he can install them. If you bag and keep the parts, there is no value lost. They don't modify or change the gun in any way.
 
What RJ said.
You will have a much safer firearm and function will be, for all practical purposes, no different.
Ruger does return the parts.
As for collector value. Rots of ruck getting a life changing price for your, or almost any, Ruger. The old, sorta scarce, models are interesting but do not command very big bucks.
Get the conversion.
BTW, I have a SS and love it and feel much more comfortable with the safety feature. I am shopping for a pistol right now and one of the absoulte requirements is the transfer bar safety feature. Won't be without it. Except for the one on the wall.
 
Leave unconverted. When target shooting I load all six as I shoot it right after loading. Ie. I leave it at half cock, raise gun, pull hammer to full, and shoot. When carrying (or stuffed in a holster), load 1, skip 1, and load 4 more, with empty under hammer. I don't see the point of converting it at all.
 
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There is a great, however impractical, advantage to having a gun that goes *click-click-click* when you pull that hammer back. I vote leave it alone.
 
The old, sorta scarce, models are interesting but do not command very big bucks.
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I don't know what you consider "big bucks" but many old Rugers certainly do command a hefty price tag. Ruger Hawkeyes in shooter condition go from $1500, NIB up to $3000 or more. Old model long frame Super Blackhawks, .357 and .44 flattops in very good condition can get over $1000 to the right person. Factory brass frame guns are very pricy. Condition is definately the big determining factor along with the original box and paperwork but anything over $1000 to me is big bucks. Heck, some Ruger boxes alone go for
$500 and more.

As to the OPs question, I recommend not having it converted. Get a New Model and enjoy the best of both types of lockwork.
 
As the old saying goes . . . "If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it".

I don't have a Single Six but I do have one of the vintage Super Bearcats . . . as stated, keep the hammer on an empty chamber and keep it like it is - to have them "update" it will affect the value. To me . . it's kind of akin to neuterin' a prize bull". :D
 
I have a Single Six, a 30 Carbine, a 357, a 41 mag, a 44 mag and a 45 Colt and will not put the transfer bar in any of them. If I am carring one of them I just carry it on an empty cylinder.
 
I have a 22-22mag and a 30cal 3 screw and I'm like Crazy88fingers luv to hear it when you pull that hammer back. :rolleyes: If I'm not mistaken the first notch back gets the hammer away from the fireing pin..
 
What does it cost to send the Ruger SSS back to Ruger for the conversion ? Does the extra cylinder need go also ? Can it be sent USPS ? Will Ruger 'Clean it up', replace buggered screws ?
 
The conversion is free, and I'm pretty sure they cover shipping too. I don't see why the extra cylinder (or any cylinder) would be needed. You'll have to ask them about replacing screws and such, though they may be replaced in the conversion process.
 
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