Old glenfield model 60

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bspillman

New member
Hey folks I have a chance to pick up an old 1970 glen field model 60 for a 100 bucks. The guy said I could test fire it before I buy it. He also disclosed that the gun shoots well with quaility ammo but jams up on value pack ammo. I have looked the gun over and it's in good shape but is extremely dirty and I suspect that's the cause of the jamming with cheap ammo. Any way my question is do you think it's safe to spray a little brake cleaner in the action before I fire it to clean out some of the grime before testing it. Thanks.
 
Brake cleaner is an excellent cleaner for anything metal.
But as GW sez, not for wood or plastics.
Enjoy your new to you Marlin.
 
Don't use brake cleaner at all. As already mentioned, take it out of the stock. Starting fluid evaporates quickly and won't harm the nylon buffer block or magazine follower. The group of parts containing the hammer anf cartridge lifter, etc., should not normally be dismantled, but as a group is easily removed from the receiver for cleaning and to expose the bolt assembly for removal. The cuts in the breach-face of the barrel are likely packed with debris which you can dig out with an improvised probe but a professional dental pick is what I use, followed by a spray of starting fluid. A tooth brush with Hoppes # 9 will do for a lot of the internals, finished with a generous blast of more starting fluid.
 
A very reliable and serviceable rifle !!!

Any way my question is do you think it's safe to spray a little brake cleaner in the action before I fire it to clean out some of the grime before testing it. Thanks.
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If it needs it, sure !! Now then, just a thought on the price. If it is in "good" condition, this might work. It is a Glendfield and they don't have as much resale value as the Marlins. Also make sure you use break cleaner as oppose to Carb. Cleaner. Also wear protecting gloves or handle the action with a towel. These kinds of spray, get very cold and will dry all the oils out of you skin. Just read the label. ..... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
The cost of the ammo has nothing to do with cycling. You could run the most expensive Eley and still have cycling issues. if it won't cycle regular HV .22 ammo there's something wrong with it.
Any .22 requires you to try a box of as many brands as possible to find the ammo the firearm shoots best and, in the cases of a semi-auto, cycles the action.
 
Trusting Bulk-Packs in semi-autos ???

The cost of the ammo has nothing to do with cycling.
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This is true but he mentioned bulk-packs and some "will" give you cycling problems. I shoot bulk-packs that I will no longer trust in any of my Semi's. I restrict them to all other actions. .... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
I received my model 60 as a gift from my grandfather in 1972...my three brothers and I shot the snot out of it until 2007 and only cleaned the barrel. It stopped cycling reliably, so I removed the stock and soaked the whole receiver in a coffee can with mineral spirits for two days. I used a tooth brush, Q-tips etc and blew it out with an air compressor. Doused it again with hoppes and blew that out. Finally sprayed it with rem oil and blew that out. It functioned perfectly after that.
 
Since when is a gun made in 1970 considered old????

Guess that makes some of us "antiques" (born 18 years before 1970).
 
Here is how I see this...

If the rifle is not visibly compromised--
(RUST, broken parts, horrible marred metal, butchered screws, broke pieces, things falling off, missing, dinged crown, cracked stock, etc etc)
...if none of that and it simply looks like an old used rifle, we are talking about A HUNDRED BUCKS. If it interests you... buy it!

Don't spray anything in to it.
Take it home, take it apart, it's a very simple design. Scrub it with a toothbrush and q-tips using a good gun solvent like Hoppes#9 or any of the fifty other fine products on the market.

Lubricate the moving metal parts and the areas where things must slide.

Put the rifle back together and gather up all the different ammo choices you can find and give it a proper range day.

It will -PROBABLY- run beautifully well.
If it doesn't, go from there.

Either way, you are interested in it and it's a hundred bucks here in the year 2015.
 
Since when is a gun made in 1970 considered old?
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If it is furniture or a book from 1970, it is not considered to be that old. Same for a piece of art.

For almost every other thing... c'mon -- it's old.

Take a look around every day life and point out all the things you see that are older than 1970.
 
Ok I shot it. I put 50 rounds of CCI standard velocity and had a few nose dive upward. I put 60 rounds of remington thunderbolt through it and the bolt would not strip it from the mag tube it kept getting caught under the bolt each and every time. What do you guys think?
 
Not giving you much of a price break is he. Reconsider offering something in the realm of 60-70.00 ($). Action and probably everything else needs to be looked at and cleaned and that surely is worth 25.00 to 35.00 ($) to have it done_>some where's else.<_If its brought to you're attention you are buying as is. Consider the low buffer price of 60.00 ($) only. Just in case there are unseen problems in the short term needing immediate attention. Having a dirty receiver is a pretty good reason too> to check any firearms bore also before its purchase. Always!!
 
I think it's typical for many .22 semis to be picky about what ammo you run. I have a Glenfield model 75. Its does not like Federal Lightning or Remington Thunderbolt. It'll run all day on CCI mini mag or Blazer, which are also the most accurrate in it.

It obviously works fine with the right ammo, and is probably well worth the asking price, so if you want it, buy it, take it home and take it apart, and clean and lube it right, and it will likely be a lot less picky about ammo. Worst case, but unlikely, is that it only eats CCI, and you either shoot CCI or sell it.
 
Still should be an easy fix, and those Glenfields are great guns. Grab it and love it, or at least grab it and sell it to me! :D
 
If I had any desire for it at all I think I'd buy it believing that I'd be able to clean it up and get it working okay. (This is a delusion I have that no amount of real life experience seems to cure.)

That said, if the guy selling it is a real good friend or really in need of the money I'd probably pay the $100. Otherwise I might just do the theatrical thing of shaking my head over the gun, rolling my eyes as I look at the action, sigh and say reluctantly 'I don't know, maybe $70?" This will probably work better for you than me as I don't believe I have the 'bargaining' gene in me.
 
Hey, doesn't this Glenfield still sell for $149.00 new or am
I that far behide ?

And now for a P.S. Remington Thunder Bolts are okay for revolvers and
single shots, but keep them away from semi-autos, their to fat...okay (LARGE)
for many chambers.
 
My 60 and 795 will cycle standard velocity just fine. For target shooting/hunting/sighting in I use the good stuff of course.
 
I have one that I got at 12 years old, in 1970. Decent gun for a while, but I wore it out 20-30 years ago. I keep it because it was my 1st gun, but I'd not buy another at any price. $100 is way too much, I see them in pawnshops for under $100. I might offer $50 if I really wanted it.
 
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