OK, now what?

T

turtlehead

New member
I have come to join you all in the dark art of reloading. :eek:

Dillon is local to me and after doing some reading and seeing the press in person I bought an rl550b. Also got a flip tray, case gage and dies for .223.

That's what I could afford for now. Over the next month or two I can add items as I learn more.

So, can I learn to reload .223 or will I die as I've been told?

Can you please recommend the essential reading materials?

Much thanks in advance!
 
turtlehead said:
I have come to join you all in the dark art of reloading. :eek:

Dillon is local to me and after doing some reading and seeing the press in person I bought an rl550b. Also got a flip tray, case gage and dies for .223.

That's what I could afford for now. Over the next month or two I can add items as I learn more.

So, can I learn to reload .223 or will I die as I've been told?

Can you please recommend the essential reading materials?

Much thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Well hopefully not die, but if you are not careful that could very well be a real possibility. As many will tell you the ABCs of reloading is a great book to start with as well as pick up the latest edition of Lymans Reloading (50th edition just arrived to my house today. I believe they released it a couple weeks ago) and always be safe! This is not a race, it is more precision than volume. Good luck and I am sure you will love it!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Stop by Dillons again, or give a call first, to see if they have the Lyman reloading manual, the 50th edition just came out but grab the 49th should they have it at a reduced price. I'm also local Phoenix area from time to time and Dillons is a favorite place to go, just minutes away from when I am there.
 
I'll pick up the manual first thing.

Am in no hurry whatsoever and enjoy the research and reading very much. It'll be a little while before I can even gather the components.

Appreciate your help!
 
Rule #1.
Keep a LOG!
A load book can be for a specific firearm,
For a specific caliber,
Or just 'Chapters' in a general load book.
Once you try/chart specific loads, you will have hard data, ideas, speculations all in print so it doesn't escape over time.
Re-Reading some of my old log books have given me some loads/ideas I wouldn't have tried otherwise, and gives me a good starting point when I start with a new firearm.

Reloading manuals are good to have, cross reference between manuals to check for misprints. Misprints abound and cause no end of trouble.
On line information is sketchy unless you know it's coming from a manufacturer.

If loading for more than one specific firearm,
Get yourself a SAAMI case gauge so your resized brass chamber in all firearms.
Once you learn to size the brass properly, which is stright forward, you are well on your way to producing accurate rounds.
You will need a SAAMI case gauge to get the brass where you want them...

Don't believe that you need super 'Hot' loads to be accurate.
Most of my most accurate loads are well under 'Maximum'.
You will often find 'Accuracy Nodes', small changes that make groups tighter than you wound normally expect.
Accuracy loading is different than general loading, you will waste tons of time searching for that 'Sweet Spot', looking for an accuracy node.

Reloading is a 'Tinkers' hobby, of you don't 'REALLY' enjoy messing with 'Gadgets' this will bore you to tears quickly.

The good part about a Dillion is once it's set up, you can crank out nearly match grade ammo without 'Tinkering' with the unit any farther.
Its as close to a 'Production' unit as you can ask for.

I had some issues with my Dillon, which are mostly solved,
And now it cranks out ammo that is consistant enough to equal or exceed 'Factory' ammo without 'Fiddling' with it all the time.
I've since aquired 3 more Dillon machines and all work very well,
Not perfect, but nothing is...
 
One other thing,
Groups.
Three shot groups will lie to you.
Five, or better yet, ten shot groups will tell you more and keep you honest.

Ten shot groups will quickly tell you if your concentration isn't what it should be...
 
I'm also an advocate of the five shot groups but used to do ten. It's about always the 4th or 5th shot however that ruins the group. You may shoot consistent three shot one half inch groups but the reason two or more groups usually cannot be combined into a single half inch group is due to the center of each group not being at the same spot on the target. An obvious statement I guess.
 
I've never dealt with Dillon, but from what I've heard they are a good company to deal with. So, since they are local, give them a call and ask if there is a reloading class they offer...
 
Start by reading the manual that came with the press. Here, if you misplaced it.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/manuals.html
Go here and watch the video too. http://www.dillonprecision.com/rl-550b_8_1_23594.html
Dillon's customer service is right up there with RCBS. ANY issues they fix with a phone call. Their phone tech also have a top notch reputation.
You will need a scale before you do anything as well. Even though the press has a thrower, you have to work up the load first. One of the reasons a progressive isn't great for a new guy.
You get the right "Conversion kit"?
 
Please forgive me for not addressing the individual comments as I'm typing from my cheap phone. I am taking in all your advice.

Dillons had Lyman's 49th and not the new one. They said the 49th is a 2008 edition and to get the 50th. They really didn't have any good reading material there.

They are remodeling the showroom and the temporary showroom is in the employee break room. It's a little bare right now.

Yes, ball powder is best. Then flake they said.

Putting the parts on the press right now and am not getting positive clicks on the shell plate. Maybe the ball bearing spring is too short. Will figure it out.
 
Not being a "Spelling Nazi" (just a life long machinist/mechanic) but the correct spelling is "gauge", from old north French and late middle English. "Gage" is the "dumbed down" spelling most often used today (by folks that had trouble with "odd" spelling, "au", or those that used dumb stuff like "prolly")... :rolleyes:
 
Gage, guage, gauge, what's in a name?
Would a rose by any other name.......
More important is how to use one.
Click to expand...

G Willikers, I met a lady that attended finishing school, she taught me the difference between what I was saying and what I should say, she though ‘FANTASTIC!’ was the better of the two choices.

Mikid, b.s. do you have books on gages, tool catalogs like Starrett? I suggest you Google, Google will allow you to catch up in a hurry. And then; there are published dates. I would like to take you serous but when it appears you are making this stuff up.


1. www.starrett.com
Manufactures more than 5,000 variations of precision tools, gages, measuring instruments, saw blades for industrial, professional and consumer markets worldwide.

F. Guffey
 
While "gauge" is the more correct spelling, including shotshell designations, "gage" has morphed into a more common and acceptable spelling and is probably used more than the original spelling.
 
I'm old school and an engineer. It's a gauge. You need the U, or in today's Internet-speak, "U need the U".

You could say that today's shortened versions of words and use of acronyms for a sequence of words is just evolution of the English language. I think that it's more a combination of poor education and laziness. IMHO and FWIW.:D
 
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