OK need advice

M

Meiji_man

New member
I own a Colt 1991a1 Series 80. I bought it used and I don't know the history. Since I've
owned it I've put about 500-600 rounds through it. I've had very little problems with it except
when I put an after market Bushing/Compensator on it that would cause the weapon to
"hang" when feeding a round. I've since gone back to the original bushing and replaced the
Recoil and Firing pin springs. I paid $425 for it case, mags, holster, ammo, et al.

I've currently expressed my interest in "tricking" the gun out abit. I want to replace the
sights, bushing and get a trigger job done on it. Maybe later I'll replace the barrel.

My friend has told me that it would be better to sell my 1991 and get a Springfield and then
start working on it. His argument is that with the Colt I'm starting with a PoS and it'll always
be a POS.

Just for the record he also has enough guns to make a 3rd world dictator jealous, and quite
possibly suffers for self esteem problems, so I take his advice with a grain of salt.
My future with this gun is this, I will own it, probably fire 200-300 rounds a year out of it. I
have a CCW so I MIGHT carry it but I have another weapon for that. (I look really stupid
trying to carry it on my 135 lb frame.) Otherwise I't be under my bed until I need it some cold
dark night.
I want this fire arm to reliable and ready in case I ever do need it. But my life and life style
does not require a Combat Grade pistol, like a LEO or Sec would.

Which way should I go?
 
Hey,

I`m of the opinion that a Colt .45 ACP is a desireable piece, an ORIGINAL...

After all, didn`t all others merely try to IMITATE the Browning / Colt design...?

The very title "1911" is a Colt patent date.

I would trick out the Colt myself...IMHO

Good Luck.

------------------
SHOOT,COMMUNICATE AND MOVE OUT !

[This message has been edited by GIT_SOME.45 (edited July 15, 2000).]
 
A Colt 1991-A1 is a fine gun, and NOT a POS.

BUT . . . it's NOT a 1911 no matter what it looks like. Most 1911 aftermarket parts will fit the 1991, and I'm not sure what doesn't fit, but I think it's in the trigger, sear block linkage.

Colt has a weird hybrid history. The Series 70 is the patent 1911-A1 Colt. The Series 80 is the same gun except it has a modification in the sear linkage for added (unnecessary) safety.

You're friend with the arsenal and esteem problems is probably basing his "POS" comments on these minor details. Mechanically, and in terms of fit, finish, and design, the 1991 takes a back seat to no production gun in the 1911 style.

"Tricking out" typically makes the gun more fussy and less reliable. "Race Guns" like the Les Baer and Wilson Combat run $1400 and up and are custom tuned for competition or serious defense. You're doing neither with this gun.

Just for the record, I often shoot 300 rds in an afternoon, and typically shoot twice a month or more . . . just horsing around. You don't need a "custom" gun for 300 rds a year.

Easy, reliable and inexpensive modifications might be adding a full-length recoil rod. This is a drop-in and keeps the recoil spring straight and kink free. They look nice, add value, are not a permanent modification.

Custom grips look nice and are an easy modification that you can change later. Lots of exotic hardwoods available in different configurations. I like stock, checkered Black Walnut like the originals.

You can add an extended slide release and/or ambidexterous thumb safety. You don't need either one. Same for the enlarged mag release button.

Polishing the feed ramp is easy, and increases feed reliability. You can do this yourself with a Dremel, a polishing tip and some jeweler's rouge. You need a gun vise, a steady hand, and patience. DON'T use the Dremel sanding disks! The ramp is precision cut and you want only to polish it, not change angles.

The large, upswept beaver-tail grip safety is a nice addition. This takes some work but is a drop-in modification--so long as your hammer spur clears the tail. You need to knock out some pins to install this. I hate working with press fit pins.

A straight mainspring housing is trendy. This copies the 1911 style (before the A-1). Some like the lines. Some swear that the grip is improved. I think mostly it's nostalgic.

A hammer, trigger, sear job is sort of spendy. Your trigger is probably fine. It's probably really fine. A skeletonized hammer looks sharp and is supposed to reduce lock-time. You'll never appreciate the difference, but the hollow hammer looks nice.

Videki makes a hot trigger system. When you move into this area, you need a gunsmith who understands tuning a 1991. The hammer, trigger, and sear all work together and need to be matched, mated, and tuned. It gets spendy. You're not competing or getting into a lot of firefights on the job. You can buy a nice handgun for what this work costs.

You can "lower and flare" the ejection port. This is machine work and changes the gun.

Beveling the mag well is an option, but this is machine work and changes the gun.

Checkered grip straps also require machine work.

Les Baer and Wilson Combat both have web sites. Look at their custom packages to see what's available. Check the prices! Your Colt is a very fine gun right out of the box. I'd add a recoil rod and grips and then spend my money on a nice holster or two and some ammo.

BTW, I have a Springfield MilSpec, the "plain vanilla" Springfield that is exactly like what's issued except tighter. I added a recoil rod and grips. I have three holsters -- one is the standard issue military, one a thumb break "pancake" style, and the last on a Galco minimalist that's little more than a secure strap across the trigger guard and slide. OK, I bought a couple Wilson Combat seven round mags too--stainless, and a Galco pouch for them.

Eight handguns and I love them all. The pretty much stock Springfield is a favorite.
 
I have several Colts of different vintages and persuasions - none are a POS.

Good sights are never a mistake.

A smooth, crisp trigger pull is never a mistake. (Not too, too light - but smooth and crisp.)

New bushing? If you're moving from the "finger" style to the solid bushing, then you're looking at improving reliability since the little fingers have been known to break off and cause jams (very uncommon, but known to happen).

Generally the better the mateing of the barrel/bushing the better the accuracy. (This, as I understand it was why Colt went to the bushing with the fingers - the spring tension caused the barrel to lock up in the same position more consistantly.)

If your accuracy is acceptable, I don't know that I'd fool with changing out the bushing - except maybe for the reliability issue. If you do decide to do that, I'd recommend you pass it on to someone who has the knowledge and skill to "do it right and do it tight"; and I'd look at it as an accuracy enhancement effort.

A solid guide rod will cost you money and make money for the manufacturer, distributor and retailer. Otherwise I don't see any benefit. Won't hurt anything either.

Arched or flat MS housing. Some folks shoot better with one than they do the other. If you're one of them - pick the one you do best with.

Some folks have difficulty with the size, shape, texture of things like the safety, slide release, magazine release, etc. If you're one of them, then do what needs to be done to make the gun reliable for you. Otherwise most of that kind of stuff tends to be cosmetic. Standard Gov. size guns give me a terrible case of hammer bite. An extended grip safety or a commander style hammer, either one, cures that for me. YMMV.

If the gun feeds and ejects reliably, then any polishing of feed ramps, lowering of ejection ports, etc. are cosmetic. If it works well now, I'd recommend doing your ramp polishing and barrel lapping on the range with live ammo.

Have fun with your project.

------------------
Jim Fox
 
I've been in your possition before...tricking out any 1911s can become a nightmare ($$$ wise)as you can see with your bushing/compensator idea. You are not too deep into the gun and can probably sell it for what you bought it for. Invest in a two more hundred and get a std Kimber Classic.
I've own full Springfield raceguns and Les Bears and can tell you the Kimber right out of the box will shoot, function ,and sometimes beat these $+1200 guns. With today's technology in C-N-C Machines, these guns comes very tight from the factory. Kimbers cost around $500-$600. Check it out, they come fully custom; to get the same quality to build up a 1911 cost +$2000; that is why Les Bear ($1200) came out with the idea, Kimber just beat them on the price! Hope the helps
 
I've got a Series 80 Gold Cup that's been played with by a good (great) gunsmith, and I don't believe I'd call it stock. It makes a bang every time I pull the trigger, and the last time I shot it from a rest, the groups were around a half inch at 25 yards.

I'll stand by my POS Colt. :)

Steve
 
Like the Ads used to read ( IF IT Aint A Colt Its Just A Copy)!!People just kill me whining about colt but atleast thier guns go up in value which is more than i can say for a lot of others. Ive never lost money on a Colt ( course it could be the fact I dont trade my Colts off)
hehe
imho if you do deide to get rid of the colt ,get the Kimber instead of the Springfield.


killer45auto
 
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