ok, another stupid ? by me.

G

gasmandave

New member
I have 3 colt clones, an 1851 Navy, an 1851 Snub nose, and a 1849 pocket 31. The question is, why is there a spring tab on the wedge? My snub has one, the full sized Navy's wedge was missing when I got it used and the '49 doesn't have one. I think the spring tab makes it difficult to disassemble the pistol and doesn't seem to be needed to keep the wedge tight in place when firing the pistol. So why need it?
 
So the wedge doesn't falloff and get lost. The spring should catch on the screw head when out to remove the barrel.
I have my open tops so by pushing with both thumb nails on the wedge and spring they will come out. One I had to put a little flat on the screw so as it would not drag.
 
My wedges are tight and require a good rap with a leather mallet. But when they come loose the 2 without spring tabs usually come out rather quickly and I have to be ready to catch them or see where they bounce off to.
I prefer to remove the barrels and cylinders when I load as I have a press to seat the balls. I charge all six cylinders and place 6 balls on then press all six at once. Apply lube then re-assemble the pistol, putting the caps on last.
 
If your weapon is fitted properly, you should not need to use anything other than thumb pressure to get the wedge out.
 
I own 4 Colt repro revolvers, and not a single one of them can you push the wedge out by hand. All of them require a tap from some non-marring object.

(2) Pietta 1851 Navy (.44 cal, brass)
Pietta 1860 Army
Uberti Walker

The Uberti shoots the best of any of them and its wedge, once tapped, works free better than any of them.

Steve
 
If your weapon is fitted properly, you should not need to use anything other than thumb pressure to get the wedge out.
Click to expand...

+1. If you install it with thumb pressure it should come out the same way. Once its been installed a few times it will fit itself.
 
"fitted properly"
There have been quite a fer threads on arbor length issues, cylinder gap, spring tension, etc. I for one like single action Colt open tops for projects as much as shooting.
To get the wedge "right" the arbor issues need to be taken care of so that the wedge does not force the barrel back and this is the time to do some thing if there is excessive cylinder gap. Mine are about .006 now. You don't need a machine shop just a few good files and measuring tools with patience.
Remember the wedge is only about $10 so don't go hacking on arbor.
 
I've had a number of different makes of '51 Navies over the years. I currently am shooting a Uberti and I can easily thumb the wedge out on it which is the way it's supposed to work. I also have a '61 ASM Navy that operates the same way.

On some of the other makes I've had - it's been "iffy". I basically "stoned" the wedge until I got a fit that allowed me to insert and remove with thumb pressure. Although the spring is supposed to retain the wedge - on some it just doesn't work that way. The Uberti that I have now has probably been one of the best I've ever had in terms of the wedge working the way it was designed to. If you have to use a mallet . . . try stoning it and working on the fit a little. It will remove the blue from the wedge but you can easily touch that up with some cold blue. Also check and make sure you don't have any burrs, etc. in the slot. I really don't think that a lot of effort is made by the mfgs. to smooth that slot up in the cylinder arbor after initial machining.
 
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