Obtained NIB 3rd issue Detective Special, cylinder bolt question

[Danus ex]

Like the title says, I picked up a NIB Colt Detective Special. After rotating the cylinder only a few times (maybe ten, I have not fired it yet), it has already left a wear line. This obviously isn't a real problem, however I do question whether or not this is proper function, especially after reading the following section of Jim March's 'Revolver Checkout' write-up:

"7. Use you fingers or thumb to put a small amount of drag on the cylinder while you manually cock the revolver (single action mode). The cylinder bolt should click into the locking notches in the cylinder, locking the cylinder in place, at the end of each segment of cylinder rotation. If it does not, the gun is out of time and needs work. Then rapidly thumb cock the gun (don't "fan" a revolver)--the cylinder should not rotate past the proper locking notch. Also, the bolt should not be dragging on the cylinder as it turns. If it does it will leave a clearly visible wear line in the cylinder's finish."

Opinions? Insights? I know autos much better than revolvers.

 

[jonathon]

Er, I don't quite get the question.

The cylinder line happens to all revolvers..

If it locks up while cocked, your fine...

 

[BillCA]

Colt timing is different than S&W's timing.

On S&W's you'll get a drag line around most of the cylinder.
On Colts, the drag line usually starts in the groove leading into the cylinder stop notch. Slowly thumb cock the Colt and the bolt retracts to release the cylinder, then as the cylinder rotates most Colts release the bolt back up against the cylinder just before the cylinder notch--on the cut groove leading to the notch. If yours releases the bolt early, that's not really that bad and the only problem will be a slight drag line on the cylinder.

Colt may have changed this function since I last handled one, but no one has ever mentioned noticing a change to their actions.

 

[GrandmasterB]

This is a shameless copy from a post by another member, dfariswheel. It gives and excellent description of proper Colt revolver timing.


To check Colt timing:
Watch the bolt in the bottom of the frame window, as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.
The bolt MUST start to drop the INSTANT the hammer starts back, and MUST be completely clear of the cylinder notch BEFORE the cylinder starts to rotate.

The bolt must drop back with a clean "click" without being 'mushy'. It MUST drop onto the leed or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch, and MUST drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the leed.

The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reachs full cock.

The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).

In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt hitting a little late into the leed, but usually wear in to correct timing. If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem but a little extra finish wear.

*****If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action.***** This can give off center hits or mis-fires. In this condition, occasionaly the trigger is pulled with just the right speed to get the cylinder rotating, but not far enough to allow the bolt to drop fast enough to catch and lock the cylinder. The cylinder rotates PAST the bolt and it drops onto the cylinder PAST the lock notch. In this position the cylinder is not locked, and the firing pin will either strike the primer off center, or even off the primer entirely.

So the problem you describe does add to finish wear, but it shouldn't affect the function of your revolver.

 

[DHart]

I've found on my Detectives (four, all 3rd/4th issue) that the drag lines are much less noticible than on S&W's, but they're there... just subtler.