My approach to Wet tumbling has been that I re-size first, the run it though the tumbler with the pins (I tried flakes for 6.5 mm but that damaged the cases to the point I could not longer size, so I just live with pins getting stuck in the mouth of the 6.5 cases (Lapua and Creedmore)
My lube of choice is Lyman s which is lanolin based. Unfortunate I finally figured out that the Lyman Turbo Sonic and the Lemon shine do not cut that and I get quasi dirty cases. I can polish them up in the dry tumbler but..... annoying.
This last run I used Dish Soap, Lemon Shine and the Turbo Sonic and that came out with gleaming cases. Others probably don't have that issue, I have tried other lubes and for me the Lymans works by far the best (others have their favorites and that is fine, just my experience not a this is the only way and yes I could try others again)
It took me some time to figure out the not so clean was the Lymans lube.
That leads into a bonus as the cases are so clean that I can anneal them with no smoke, which means a fan and opening doors.
As for Annealing, I use the Annie and have played with that a fair amount. I failed to anneal my often fired 7.5 Swiss cases and got neck cracks, so I annealed the batch and that stopped.
No question it works to stop that, I make no claims on better accuracy.
My approach has been to be conservative with the anneal. As Unclenick has noted, you can do a partial anneal you just have to do it more often.
The Annie has a timer down to the tenth of a second and I have worked out the settings (for my machine and how clean the cases are, dirty cases are different). I push it over the edge on test cases then back off to safe (no red glow at all even in a fully dark room). I cross test with templisticks to confirm its in the right heat range when I first get the glow as well as the backoff heat point.
The attest inter sting aspect is one out Mr. Guffys book to get cases sized right for a Schmidt Rubin 1911 (7.5 Swiss). IE, raise the shell up in the holder with a shim so you don't have to cam it over.
That 1911 gun has a slightly different case shape, I switched to the Lee die for that and as far as I can get the shoulder to set back. In doing so they fit. The ones that fit my 7.5 Swiss custom build and the K31 don't fit in the 1911.
My lube of choice is Lyman s which is lanolin based. Unfortunate I finally figured out that the Lyman Turbo Sonic and the Lemon shine do not cut that and I get quasi dirty cases. I can polish them up in the dry tumbler but..... annoying.
This last run I used Dish Soap, Lemon Shine and the Turbo Sonic and that came out with gleaming cases. Others probably don't have that issue, I have tried other lubes and for me the Lymans works by far the best (others have their favorites and that is fine, just my experience not a this is the only way and yes I could try others again)
It took me some time to figure out the not so clean was the Lymans lube.
That leads into a bonus as the cases are so clean that I can anneal them with no smoke, which means a fan and opening doors.
As for Annealing, I use the Annie and have played with that a fair amount. I failed to anneal my often fired 7.5 Swiss cases and got neck cracks, so I annealed the batch and that stopped.
No question it works to stop that, I make no claims on better accuracy.
My approach has been to be conservative with the anneal. As Unclenick has noted, you can do a partial anneal you just have to do it more often.
The Annie has a timer down to the tenth of a second and I have worked out the settings (for my machine and how clean the cases are, dirty cases are different). I push it over the edge on test cases then back off to safe (no red glow at all even in a fully dark room). I cross test with templisticks to confirm its in the right heat range when I first get the glow as well as the backoff heat point.
The attest inter sting aspect is one out Mr. Guffys book to get cases sized right for a Schmidt Rubin 1911 (7.5 Swiss). IE, raise the shell up in the holder with a shim so you don't have to cam it over.
That 1911 gun has a slightly different case shape, I switched to the Lee die for that and as far as I can get the shoulder to set back. In doing so they fit. The ones that fit my 7.5 Swiss custom build and the K31 don't fit in the 1911.