Now I want to cast my own casull bullets
- Thread starter Dano4734
- Start date
m&p45acp10+1
New member
The Lyman cast bullet guide would be a good start. Before I recommend equipment knowing your budget will help.
I'd start w/ the 45-70 rather than the Casull -- much lower pressure and more forgiving in startup.
Others may recommend various casting equipment, but for bullet I'd also start w/ the classic Lyman 457193 cast either soft (30:1/BN-6) or wheel weight equivalent (BN-10/11)
Start at moderate/original velocities , 1,200 - 1,250fps using Lyman "Trapdoor" loads* in the manual. That bullet, that cartridge, that load range, and that rifle will be an invaluable education for later expansion.
* That will still kill any animal on this continent
Others may recommend various casting equipment, but for bullet I'd also start w/ the classic Lyman 457193 cast either soft (30:1/BN-6) or wheel weight equivalent (BN-10/11)
Start at moderate/original velocities , 1,200 - 1,250fps using Lyman "Trapdoor" loads* in the manual. That bullet, that cartridge, that load range, and that rifle will be an invaluable education for later expansion.
* That will still kill any animal on this continent
+1 on http://castboolits.gunloads.com/
+1 on the Lyman book. More info than I could easily absorb, including all of the relevant metallurgical study. My book looks like a third grader got ahold of it with all my notes in the margins and every which way!
Probably your biggest early barrier is going to be buying lead and which lead to buy. For a fast moving boolit, you'll need a harder alloy (lead, tin, antimony) and the process you use can make them harder or less so. Go to the Rotometals website to find a lot of what you may want.
The nice thing about casting is the same as the nice thing about reloading: You get to form your own stuff with your own blends of materials to get a result that works best for you. Far better than a generic boolit you get from a manufacturer who has to make thousands of buyers happy all at the same time.
You're gonna have fun with it!
--Wag--
+1 on the Lyman book. More info than I could easily absorb, including all of the relevant metallurgical study. My book looks like a third grader got ahold of it with all my notes in the margins and every which way!
Probably your biggest early barrier is going to be buying lead and which lead to buy. For a fast moving boolit, you'll need a harder alloy (lead, tin, antimony) and the process you use can make them harder or less so. Go to the Rotometals website to find a lot of what you may want.
The nice thing about casting is the same as the nice thing about reloading: You get to form your own stuff with your own blends of materials to get a result that works best for you. Far better than a generic boolit you get from a manufacturer who has to make thousands of buyers happy all at the same time.
You're gonna have fun with it!
--Wag--
Oh, one more thing: I suggest you buy molds from Tom at Accurate Molds. His are the very best of the very best. http://www.accuratemolds.com/
NOE has a great reputation too, I've just never bought any of theirs. http://noebulletmolds.com/main/
--Wag--
NOE has a great reputation too, I've just never bought any of theirs. http://noebulletmolds.com/main/
--Wag--
top of forum
7 replies and no one has pointed you to the top of the forum main page-- bullet casting. There's plenty of info right there for a beginner caster to get started. EDIT, I see Uncle Nick moved it for you.
There's just no cheap way to get into this part of the reloading hobby. You CAN save lots of money by getting Lee equipment and Lee molds. BUT you'll still need around 150 bucks before even melting your first lead.
As noted earlier, you must have a source of lead. In years passed tire wheel balancing weights were available to anyone who could spend the time looking for them. The use of non-lead weights to balance tires has dried up that source. Forget about using old car batteries, they will poison you if you tried to melt one down. Scrap lead can be used IF you have some idea where it came from. It could be dead soft pure lead, or extremely hard type metal.
Let us know your budget, we can help more after we see what you can spend.
7 replies and no one has pointed you to the top of the forum main page-- bullet casting. There's plenty of info right there for a beginner caster to get started. EDIT, I see Uncle Nick moved it for you.
There's just no cheap way to get into this part of the reloading hobby. You CAN save lots of money by getting Lee equipment and Lee molds. BUT you'll still need around 150 bucks before even melting your first lead.
As noted earlier, you must have a source of lead. In years passed tire wheel balancing weights were available to anyone who could spend the time looking for them. The use of non-lead weights to balance tires has dried up that source. Forget about using old car batteries, they will poison you if you tried to melt one down. Scrap lead can be used IF you have some idea where it came from. It could be dead soft pure lead, or extremely hard type metal.
Let us know your budget, we can help more after we see what you can spend.
Average Joe
New member
Finding lead is the problem, if you have to buy it, it's not that cost effective. Years ago you could pick up of wheel weight's , but now they are hard to find.
I had maybe 80 lbs of lead stashed prolly 4-5 years before I started casting. Of course, I started sometime in 1968 or 1969.
My Dad got most of it since he was all over the place and asked guys at gas stations, etc. He had a buddy that had a tire shop, so that helped.
Get some lead first, then start looking for a good pot. In the mean time you can shop for a mold. I have always used iron molds. I tried aluminum one time and didn't care for it, but that is just me. I never tried brass molds.
After that and some read time, practice a lot and you will be in the business before you know what happened.
The very first mold that I bought was a RCBS mold for 357 bullets. Next came the 44 then the 45. Added a few more over the years and I cast for everything I have except the 22 LR. The smallest is 22 for my Hornet and the largest is a 500 grainer that I use in the 460 when I have the urge.
I also do 0.690 round balls to use in the 12 ga.
However you start out, you will have fun and some frustrations. Hopefully those will be minor.
My Dad got most of it since he was all over the place and asked guys at gas stations, etc. He had a buddy that had a tire shop, so that helped.
Get some lead first, then start looking for a good pot. In the mean time you can shop for a mold. I have always used iron molds. I tried aluminum one time and didn't care for it, but that is just me. I never tried brass molds.
After that and some read time, practice a lot and you will be in the business before you know what happened.
The very first mold that I bought was a RCBS mold for 357 bullets. Next came the 44 then the 45. Added a few more over the years and I cast for everything I have except the 22 LR. The smallest is 22 for my Hornet and the largest is a 500 grainer that I use in the 460 when I have the urge.
I also do 0.690 round balls to use in the 12 ga.
However you start out, you will have fun and some frustrations. Hopefully those will be minor.
If ya like videos check out fortunecookie45lc on youtube for lots of good casting videos.
Definitely start scrounging lead now, even range scrap. Also you’ll want a cast iron pan and a turkey frier to cast ingots, its a good step in processing lead to get it clean for casting.
Definitely start scrounging lead now, even range scrap. Also you’ll want a cast iron pan and a turkey frier to cast ingots, its a good step in processing lead to get it clean for casting.
This was actually the first handgun, the 454, that I started casting for. I initially used the Cast Performance bullets but quickly decided that for the money a couple of boxes could be had for I could get a mold and other necessities and pour my own.
There's a lot of great molds out there but my mainstay has been the Lee 300gr RFN GC. I basically use straight WW alloy and have had great accuracy and performance with the Lee alox as well as Carnuba Red from White Label Lubes. Initially I pan lubed with it but eventually picked up a lubesizer due to additional calibers being added.
The Lee alox works MUCH better on the upper end loads if you blend it up to what's called 45-45-10 or it too can be purchased already blended from Glen at White Label. This is a great tumble lube and works great on a wide variety of things. For the higher pressure stuff I will lube, size, and lube again. The Lee bullets need the GC installed either before the first lube or between coats.
I've loaded them up to 1650+fps from my 8.375" Raging Bull will no issues, but I get my best accuracy in the 1500-1575fps range. They will go from rear to ears or visas versa of a 250# hog at 200yds and usually drops them on the spot. It only gets better up close and personal.
There's a lot of great molds out there but my mainstay has been the Lee 300gr RFN GC. I basically use straight WW alloy and have had great accuracy and performance with the Lee alox as well as Carnuba Red from White Label Lubes. Initially I pan lubed with it but eventually picked up a lubesizer due to additional calibers being added.
The Lee alox works MUCH better on the upper end loads if you blend it up to what's called 45-45-10 or it too can be purchased already blended from Glen at White Label. This is a great tumble lube and works great on a wide variety of things. For the higher pressure stuff I will lube, size, and lube again. The Lee bullets need the GC installed either before the first lube or between coats.
I've loaded them up to 1650+fps from my 8.375" Raging Bull will no issues, but I get my best accuracy in the 1500-1575fps range. They will go from rear to ears or visas versa of a 250# hog at 200yds and usually drops them on the spot. It only gets better up close and personal.
Get a Lee double cavity mould, a Lyman ladle with the side spout (not the Lee type) and a Lee Magnum Melter. Shoot them as cast or use the Lee Bullet Sizer and lube with a good liquid lube. That's all the basic stuff you will need ... It's a fun hobby.
Get the Magnum Melter...I wish I had gotten one years ago. 20 lbs of metal to cast from is so nice.
Gas checks have always improved accuracy when I have used them. If the bullet has a place...put a check on it !
Gary
Get the Magnum Melter...I wish I had gotten one years ago. 20 lbs of metal to cast from is so nice.
Gas checks have always improved accuracy when I have used them. If the bullet has a place...put a check on it !
Gary