novice shooter needs solvent and lube

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nodule

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Hi,
I am purchasing my cleaning supplies today for my 2 revolvers and I was wondering
what is the best solvent and lube combination to clean my revolvers??

Is there really only product that can effectively clean and lube, or do
you always use two products....cleaner and lube?

Breakfree and a lube like REM oil?
Balistol for BOTH cleaner and lube?
Hopppes and REM oil?

What is the best combination??

Thanks!
 
Try all of them ..and see what you like.
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Personally, for all my handguns I use Shooters Choice ( shotgun and choke tube cleaner ) as a solvent ...and Break Free as a lube ...
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Some of my buddies use Break Free as an all in one ...

Hoppees is ok ...as a solvent.

If I get some stubborn deposits in my barrels ...I use Barnes CR-10 as a solvent to get stuff out of the riflings.

Rem Oil is ok as a light lube ..but I like Break Free or Wilson Combat's Ultima lube a lot better - so those are the only lubes I use.
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so on my cleaning bench right now ....

for lubes there is Break Free and Ultima Lube
for solvents - there is Shooters Choice and Barnes CR-10 ( and some Hoppes because I like the smell :D).
 
You are about to get a ton of different answers varying from the latest synthetic product to motor oil! The truth is everyone has their favorite whether it's due to trial and error that gave them the right product for their personal climates and shooting needs, or just what they are comfortable with because it's what their Dad taught them to use.
My suggestion would be to stick to buying smaller containers of any one of the brands (Hoppes, CLP, Rem Oil, etc) that way when you run out you can try something else. Eventually you will get hooked on something. Or you might end up with a box full of different stuff (like me:D) and realize they all work pretty good. Just please don't use WD-40, I cringe when I read that!!
 
CLP breakfree is my choice use for the whole process. I also have some Krol oil that I used to clean the bores every few months. It is a penetrating oil and seems to pull the leading out of the barrel.

Also look for some brass jags.
 
Hoppe's #9 for cleaning...and Automatic Transmission fluid for lube...ATF Dextron ll or lll. A cheaper way is to make up some Ed's Red: equal parts by volume of: ATF, Kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and Acetone. (Ed's Red will not pull copper fouling out of a barrel, but continued use of ER seems to mitigate future buildups.)

HTH's ... Rod
 
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Hoppe's #9 for cleaning...and Automatic Transmission fluid for lube...ATF Dextron ll or lll
Agreed on this,unless you're shooting corrosive ammo in which case original Hoppes #9 wont do.
 
Recently I've tried a few of the newer solvents, but I finally decided that Shooters Choice was still my favorite. And I keep a bottle of Hoppe's No 9 around because it cleans Ok and I admit the smell brings back memories (good ones, in my case). Butch's Bore Shine works fine also. As for Copper Solvents, I don't have a favorite right now. All the ones I have seem pretty effective. As for a gun oil, I just use 3 in 1 oil on the outside, but I have a new lube (and the name eludes me) that works real nice on internals.
 
almost anything will work on lead build up in your gun. heck, all ya need is a brash brush, good cotton patches and atsko camp dry silicone. and even massive does of 22lr in my stuff just dissapears to a mirror shine in a few minutes.

the greatest issue is that some lubes can promote buildup of residue, and some others will make the builder harder to remove. trial and error is your friend. as well as

slow shooting, let the gun cool down and once in a while wipe the forcing cone and cylinder faces off with a rag or brush dipped in No 9
 
Both Hoppe's #9 and Rig #44 seem to work well for me. The Rig #44 seems to reduce lead build up better than the Hoppe's, but it's harder to find.

As far as a lubricant for handguns, I'm following the advice of gunsmith Grant Cunningham to use Dexron ATF. Automatic transmission fluid is thinner than most oils so it creeps into those smaller crevices, pivot points and wear spots. It's also cleaner than oil. It has good lubricity and clinging properties.

Handguns rarely exert the kind of stresses on oil that an engine does so there is little need for specially formulated "synthetics" as additives or oils. ATF works fine and it's cheaper than most specialty gun oils too.

Cleaning tip: Before leaving the range, while the barrel is still warm, pull a bore snake or dry bore brush through the bore a few times to remove lead build up. The lead will be softer and easier to brush out. Follow up with a normal cleaning.
 
cleaner and lubricant

Ed's Red (cheap, effective, and fast to whip up at home) for a cleaner and Lucas gun oil (good balance of tackiness and penetration for all applications, sliding as wella s rotating.).

Plus they're both RED ;)

The only thing I'd caution you stay away from, based on my own experience, is household 3 in 1. As a young gun crank I put this on my remington cocking cam and it did not keep the cocking piece from galling the cam. It was wierd I admity as these parts should have been hard enough to function dry. It happened so take it FWIW. I just wanted to help.
 
I would advise against brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and engine cleaners/degreasers.

A lot of the those products have chlorinated esters which are corrosive to steel - especially stainless steel.

They are also pretty powerful solvents and they are volatile. Even the non-chlorinated products are overkill for cleaning IMO. I wouldn't use them on a gun I wanted to keep for decades.

You can completely clean everything that needs to be cleaned with Breakfree and either lead or copper solvent for the barrel - if there even is copper or lead residue present.

Breakfree is a proven product that underwent extensive testing by the U.S. Army:

To increase reliability and performance to reduce misfires
and malfunctions in various military weapons, the U.S. Army
issued in 1971 a "purchase description"--PD-48-- listing the
performance properties of a single, multi-purpose product to
clean, lubricate and protect weaponry. These included, in broad
terms, the following requirements:

1. It must easily remove firing residue, carbon
deposits and other contaminants during the
cleaning process, and prevent the rapid buildup of
subsequent deposits during firing which cause
malfunctions and weapon failure.

2. It must lubricate moving parts, including those
which bear a heavy load, and it must continue to
lubricate over long periods of time and use. At
the same time it must not be sticky or greasy so
as to attract dust, sand or dirt which would cause
malfunctions. As a weapons lubricant it must
function under all conditions - extreme heat or
cold, in mud, water, dust, etc.

3. As a corrosion preventative it must protect the
weapon and preserve it in a "grab-and-go"
condition in all climatic conditions - high
humidity, rain, snow, etc., and it must protect
the weapon against corrosion in field use, even in
extreme conditions such as salt water
environments.

The requirements were so severe that PD-48 became known as
the "impossible specification," and from 1971 nothing was found
to come even close to meeting its requirements, until BREAK-FREE
CLP was introduced.

The U.S. Military began testing BREAK-FREE CLP in 1976 and
for almost three years it carried out test after test in the
laboratories and in the field on weapons of all types from the
M16 rifle to 8 inch artillery howitzers, until finally, in 1979,
it was completely satisfied that BREAK-FREE CLP not only met the
"impossible specification," but even exceeded its requirements.
 
I now use Eezox for everything. It is the best gun care product I've ever used. I don't shoot lead, so I don't know how it works for that purpose.
 
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