Novice buying used 357

D

Doc Holliday 1950

New member
Okay. I can go out and buy a BNIB S & W 686 4" 357 or a Ruger GP100 4" 357. But how in the world do I know what to look for in getting a used one? I don't
have a relationship with any dealers. I really don't want to be taken for a ride and certainly don't trust any pawn dealers.
So, spend the extra bucks or not?
 
Well, used ones aren't a whole lot cheaper in these popular models. People will pay more, in fact, for a "pre-lock" Smith. But if you are going used, look for the obvious: rust, dings, damaged stocks. Put a light in the bore. Check the crown at the end of the barrel. A little damage can destroy accuracy. Check the function, particularly how the cylinder locks up. Should be tight side-to-side and front-to-back. If you deal with a reputable shop, you'll do fine.
 
If you don't trust your knowledge level yet…how about taking a friend who is more familiar with revolvers? Both of the guns you mention are quality revolvers that, unless abused or neglected, are as functional used as they are new.

So obvious signs of abuse, excess cylinder slop or timing issues might be a problem to keep an eye out for.

But, as I said, the two you are considering should not have those issues unless they were beat to death with stupidly hot loads [lots of them] or pretty obvious signs of neglect.

As both are stainless you won't be bothered or misled by honest holster wear.

Good luck.

Mike
 
Check the crown at the end of the barrel. A little damage can destroy accuracy
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I don't worry about that unless it's severe, since a few minutes work can easily restore a crown

Check the cylinder for "end play" and make sure it's locked up in line with the barrel when the trigger is held back

Otherwise it's largely based on condition of the finish
 
Novice buying new 357 vs old

Everybody, thanks. Great advice. Now I have some book learning. Next comes the actual hunt. Wish I could take a couple of you with me.
Doc
 
Wish I could take a couple of you with me.
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Might want to rethink that. Some, if not most, of the members of this forum are pretty notorious for convincing others here to buy anything they set their eyes on.
 
Quote:
"...and certainly don't trust any pawn dealers."
"Wow! You might want to rethink your prejudice there."

I agree. Pawn shop dealers have a business to run like anyone else. Some pawn shop owners might be very knowledgeable about guns but others may not. No one forces you to buy a gun from a pawn broker, but a reasonable offer should be made and if they ca't go down from their price then look elsewhere.

I bought a SAKO Finnbear Deluxe (A3, actually) in 7mm Remington Mag at a local pawn shop, in near new condition with a Leupold long range scope and for what I paid it's like I got the scope for free!

My advice is to find what you want online and if a local dealer has one for slightly more, then buy it!
 
Some, if not most, of the members of this forum are pretty notorious for convincing others here to buy anything they set their eyes on.
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Guilty as charged.

As for not trusting pawn shop dealers, well there are pawn shops and then there are pawn shops. I've had no luck with them but lots of folks here whose opinions I respect do quite well with them.

I think if I were you I'd buy new and avoid the uncertainty...you could still get a lemon but customer support for Ruger or S&W is pretty dependable.
 
Pawn shops can be great places for picking up used firearms at good prices. Just do your home work before going in. Have an ideal what you want and what you would consider a fair price. Follow the revolver sticky test posted on this website and the info. on the other posted links.

If you find a piece you like look at the price on the tag and then ask the pawn shop employee what is your best Out The Door OTD price, which should include any taxes/fees/etc... Next is the price quoted fair. I have been quoted fair prices right off the bat and accepted and, in between prices and I have been quoted outrageous prices. Be prepared to counter and have cash on hand. If the revolver you are wanting is selling in the $350-$450 range in your neck of the woods put $375 in your wallet and make an offer of $350, if they balk let them see you pull all of it out your remaining $25 with nothing left in the wallet and see it is empty and see if they bite.

If they balk and stick to their price then thank them and walk, being polite goes a long way, being a jerk will not get you anything but contempt and no deals ever. Come back in two or three weeks or a month or two and see if the desired firearm is still on the shelf, if so try and work the same employee and see if they are willing to sell at your price.

Some pawn shops know how to price to their market, some don't have a clue about firearms and you will find wildly inaccurate prices on their guns, some will mark even the most rusted and beat up piece of crap like it was a brand new Kimber with all the bells and whistles. Do your homework...
 
Yes, pawn shops can have real buys, but you have better know your guns well.

See, lots of people dump there clunkers at pawn shops to.

Deaf
 
Excellent information available on this forum...

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57816
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Read this. Then go to shop and ask to look at a NIB revolver and run the tests on it. The chances are good that the gun will pass with flying colors. This will give you a baseline for what it should feel like.

From there you will be able to "feel" the difference if a used gun feels off. The other is to do the same test on a friends revolver that you know if good to go.

From there you can then start to shop the pawn shops and used shops. The more you handle the more you know how to spot the problems and how to tell if you have a winner in your hands.

I am new to the game but from reading here asking people who know. Reading the link above I have been able to acquire 3 nice .357s.

Good luck on your search.
 
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