i just got a 300win mag that had been in a case under a bed for like 5-7yrs.... its a pretty gun except for 1 area of surface rust, i always keep my guns cleaned and oiled and have never had rust.... i want the gun like new, like it had never had any rust.... its that bad enough to pit? what would work best (i see the common answer is that kroil).... what about renaissance pre-lim? before i do anything i just want to get some expert advice for my best options to make it look perfect.... any suggestions? (i have attached a pic of my problem)
noob question about rust
- Thread starter boom101
- Start date
Try this. Remove the barrelled action from the stock, and clean the pitted area well with alcohol. Then, use brass or copper wool (pot cleaner - make sure it is brass or copper, not plated steel) to rub the area. That will not harm the blue.
Now use a good cold blue (I like G96 Gun Blue Paste) on the area and rub with the brass/copper wool. Leave the gun sit for a day, then lightly oil the treated area.
This will NOT "remove" the pits (which nothing can do except polishing the rest of the metal to below the pitting) but it may make the rifle look more presentable. It won't ever be "perfect", no matter what you do, though.
Jim
Now use a good cold blue (I like G96 Gun Blue Paste) on the area and rub with the brass/copper wool. Leave the gun sit for a day, then lightly oil the treated area.
This will NOT "remove" the pits (which nothing can do except polishing the rest of the metal to below the pitting) but it may make the rifle look more presentable. It won't ever be "perfect", no matter what you do, though.
Jim
If you have a big enough container, you can boil the rust in distilled water which will turn some of it to magnetite, which is what bluing is. The excess is rubbed off with pads, as Jim described.
With all cold blues, when they have finished acting, I squirt them with Formula 409 or Greased Lightning cleaner to penetrate and neutralize their acids to prevent after-rust. After rinsing that off, I usually use a WD-40 hose-down to extract any water left behind. Then I use LPS-2 (same thing as Birchwood Casey Sheath) to remove the WD-40 and act as a rust inhibitor.
With all cold blues, when they have finished acting, I squirt them with Formula 409 or Greased Lightning cleaner to penetrate and neutralize their acids to prevent after-rust. After rinsing that off, I usually use a WD-40 hose-down to extract any water left behind. Then I use LPS-2 (same thing as Birchwood Casey Sheath) to remove the WD-40 and act as a rust inhibitor.
nice, i didnt know that, im probably gonna try the cold blue out and see how it turns out, if not my friend to me of a reputable gun shop that will clean it all off and reblue and polish, and they told me it would be around 250, so I figured that wouldnt be too bad after I save a little mad money, or if my cold blue dont work
Clarence M. Bates, a retired gunsmith told me about a simple product that is truly miraculous:
Go to your local health food store and buy a bottle of 100% PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil. (Gotta be 100% PURE and NATURAL) This is the most effective rust penetrant and remover that I have ever used in my life. Take the action out of the stock and gently clean the area with 0000 steel wool. When you are done, you should have no rust left and very tiny speckles that can easily be covered with high quality cold blue such as Birchwood Casey, which seems to be a little more duarble than other brands I have used.
Go to your local health food store and buy a bottle of 100% PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil. (Gotta be 100% PURE and NATURAL) This is the most effective rust penetrant and remover that I have ever used in my life. Take the action out of the stock and gently clean the area with 0000 steel wool. When you are done, you should have no rust left and very tiny speckles that can easily be covered with high quality cold blue such as Birchwood Casey, which seems to be a little more duarble than other brands I have used.
montelores
New member
I'll share my experience.
Light rusting on blued steel. The very competent person from my local shop walked me through the procedure and had the products (less than $20.00).
Flat - sided profile steel wool (S/S, I believe). It looks like fine Christmas tinsel crumpled up, NOT like standard steel wool. Lubricate affected area with Kroil or CRC Knock 'Er Loose (letting stand for more penetration beneficial). Rub lightly with the steel wool, and be gentle on corners and sharp edges. Proceed slowly, and wipe oil to check progress.
Afterwards, when I was satisfied with the cleaning, I wiped the entire surface with 70% alcohol to remove ALL traces of oil.
Next, apply 44-40 Instant Blue. Use small rag or patch to wipe on thin layer, then wipe to remove immediately. Repeat until color match obtained.
44-40: to see its effects, dip a nail or knife blade into it. It turns it black. When I removed the foil seal from the bottle, the tip of the blade blackened instantly. This gives one an idea of how it should be applied.
Regarding the use of steel wool, I first cringed at the thought. However, it was very effective and removed remarkably little of the original blueing. No noticeable scratches were left on the surface. Very surprising, and I was a bit aggressive (relatively speaking) on the main area of concern. The explanation is that only the flat sides of the (tinsel-shaped) wool contact the flat surface of the metal.
The penetrant seems to be more effective if allowed to soak in, but all traces of oil must be removed prior to bluing.
Hope this helps. I am new to this, but I am very satisfied with the outcome.
Monty
Light rusting on blued steel. The very competent person from my local shop walked me through the procedure and had the products (less than $20.00).
Flat - sided profile steel wool (S/S, I believe). It looks like fine Christmas tinsel crumpled up, NOT like standard steel wool. Lubricate affected area with Kroil or CRC Knock 'Er Loose (letting stand for more penetration beneficial). Rub lightly with the steel wool, and be gentle on corners and sharp edges. Proceed slowly, and wipe oil to check progress.
Afterwards, when I was satisfied with the cleaning, I wiped the entire surface with 70% alcohol to remove ALL traces of oil.
Next, apply 44-40 Instant Blue. Use small rag or patch to wipe on thin layer, then wipe to remove immediately. Repeat until color match obtained.
44-40: to see its effects, dip a nail or knife blade into it. It turns it black. When I removed the foil seal from the bottle, the tip of the blade blackened instantly. This gives one an idea of how it should be applied.
Regarding the use of steel wool, I first cringed at the thought. However, it was very effective and removed remarkably little of the original blueing. No noticeable scratches were left on the surface. Very surprising, and I was a bit aggressive (relatively speaking) on the main area of concern. The explanation is that only the flat sides of the (tinsel-shaped) wool contact the flat surface of the metal.
The penetrant seems to be more effective if allowed to soak in, but all traces of oil must be removed prior to bluing.
Hope this helps. I am new to this, but I am very satisfied with the outcome.
Monty
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oregon-john
New member
What I have been told, is that the 0000 steel wool will not harm the bluing. But you need to keep the steel wool clean. The rust you remove is now lodged in the steel wool and will scratch the blueing. Clean a little, then spray the steel wool clean with WD40, or just change out the steel wool every so often. John