non crimped 223 or 5.56 ?

They've been reported in some commercial brass. But you can avoid them by looking at the cartridges before you buy them. Crimps will either be staked or there will be a recessed ring pressed into the brass around the primer. Look at some military cases to see what these look like. Also, if you are mainly going to reload, just buy brass that's unprimed new brass. It never has crimps, not even when it is military, because you can't apply the crimp before the primer is seated.

StakedCrimps_zpsdbb5bff9.gif
 
PMC (X-tac was the product line I think), American Eagle AR 5.56, and Wolf Gold most definitely do have crimped primer pockets. This I know from personal experience.
 
Most of the 5.56 surplus brass sellers will decrimp the brass for a very reasonable processing fee.

After doing the chamfer crimp removal route, paying twenty bucks per thousand is a dang good buy in my opinion.

Jimro
 
Both of those indicators that Uncle Nick posted along with the annealing marks make separating 223 from 556 brass easy. I sort before I tumble so I can pick up on the annealing mark (at least that is what I think the discoloration is from). Obviously the 556 requires the extra crimp removal process before reloading. I just sorted about 600 cases this weekend after shooting with a buddy, all his were 556 loads and mine were all 223. I did get all of his brass since he doesn't reload. That may change after I told him how much my cartridges cost vs. his 556 even with the great deal he got on the 556.
 
I am currently case prepping my 223 cases for a "reload afternoon" in a few weeks. The last of it is a mix of mil and civilian brass. I am hitting every case with a pocket reamer to get rid of any crimp. It is also kind of easy to spot - they are the annealed cases for the most part.
 
I don't crimp mine. Could never get the Lee FCD to work without crushing my cases. Come to find out, they don't need to be crimped. Same for my 9mm. No crimp unless it goes into my revolvers or lever actions.
 
I don't crimp mine. Could never get the Lee FCD to work without crushing my cases. Come to find out, they don't need to be crimped. Same for my 9mm. No crimp unless it goes into my revolvers or lever actions.
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You know how we know you didn't read anything but the title?

You get all your news from just the headlines, don't you? :rolleyes:
 
"...How do you buzz off the crimp?..." Make a sound like a bee while turning the chamfering or swaging tool. snicker.
The rich guys with power tools put those into hand drills. Hand drills buzz by themselves. HAHAHAHA.
 
I purchased about 5k of LC brass that had never been loaded and thus no crimp. I try to keep this separate from the rest of my mil cases by loading only one type of projectile and policing my brass.
 
Federal is now crimping their .223 primers. There may be others - so it is not just done with military loads. I've found crimped primers in a wide variety of brass, albeit MOST of that was 5.56 (military or foreign) stuf - but definitely not all.

I think it would be smart for everyone who reloads .223/ 5.56 to add a primer pocket crimp cutter to his/ her loading equipment. I did.....and I couldn't get by without one now.
 
I purchased about 5k of LC brass that had never been loaded and thus no crimp. I try to keep this separate from the rest of my mil cases by loading only one type of projectile and policing my brass.
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If I may ask where did you buy the brass ? I would order 1000.
 
I use the primer pocket cleaner/crimp removers made by Hornady, works like a charm and cheap.

Hornady primer pocket tool

I use them on all of my brass whether it has the crimp or not, makes primer install much easier. It creates a slight chamfer at the pocket opening

Just about all .223 range brass needs to be reamed. I seldom find any of the non crimped at the private range I belong to.
 
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