No. 209 Primers
- Thread starter laea7777
- Start date
If this is what you mean by a 209 primer pistol,
A 209 battery cup primer is a shot shell primer that has been used with modern in-line muzzle loaders.
There are magnum primers and several 209 size primers designed just for muzzle loading, but they are all basically the same and can be used.
A 209 battery cup primer is a shot shell primer that has been used with modern in-line muzzle loaders.
There are magnum primers and several 209 size primers designed just for muzzle loading, but they are all basically the same and can be used.
laea7777, I sent you over here hoping someone would answer your question. I see it hasn't happened. So I'll take a stab at it.
What I have read on the inlines that use the 209 ignition system is; you have to use a low powered 209 primer. The theory is that the higher powered primers can actually kick the whole charge, bullet and all forward before it ignites the powder/ pellet(s). I have no personal experience, just what I "have heard". My Ruger inline uses either #11 or musket caps. The TC primers you found are probably a special low powered primer that will ignite the powder, but not be strong enough to unseat the charge.
Remington made a special low powered primer for the .410 shotguns, designated the 209-4. It was made for the same reason as the recommended low powered primers for inlines. Standard force primers would kick the light payloads of the .410 down the bore before the small charge of slow powder could ignite. I suspect the "special" inline 209's are the same as the 209-4.
What I have read on the inlines that use the 209 ignition system is; you have to use a low powered 209 primer. The theory is that the higher powered primers can actually kick the whole charge, bullet and all forward before it ignites the powder/ pellet(s). I have no personal experience, just what I "have heard". My Ruger inline uses either #11 or musket caps. The TC primers you found are probably a special low powered primer that will ignite the powder, but not be strong enough to unseat the charge.
Remington made a special low powered primer for the .410 shotguns, designated the 209-4. It was made for the same reason as the recommended low powered primers for inlines. Standard force primers would kick the light payloads of the .410 down the bore before the small charge of slow powder could ignite. I suspect the "special" inline 209's are the same as the 209-4.
To add to what Snuffy is stating,
The 209 primmer is still a shotgun primer being used to substitute as a percussion cap in black powder guns. There are many different power levels available as Snuffy has pointed out and alluded to the reasoning's. There are also many variations in vent size in the breach plug. I have found vents from .025 inch to .085 inch.
Each manufacture has an opinion on what is right. Then add in all the difference's in primer power levels and we can see there is going to be muddied water's for years to come.
What one could do to make sense of all this is to simply switch to a flint lock ignition gun, Just kidding!
I would offer to you to experiment some by trying a few different primers and look to the results you get and then try hard to stay with the same components that give you good results, be it with a chronograph and targets, or just target groups.
Check out this link,
http://www.chuckhawks.com/winchester_777_primers.htm
The 209 primmer is still a shotgun primer being used to substitute as a percussion cap in black powder guns. There are many different power levels available as Snuffy has pointed out and alluded to the reasoning's. There are also many variations in vent size in the breach plug. I have found vents from .025 inch to .085 inch.
Each manufacture has an opinion on what is right. Then add in all the difference's in primer power levels and we can see there is going to be muddied water's for years to come.
What one could do to make sense of all this is to simply switch to a flint lock ignition gun, Just kidding!
I would offer to you to experiment some by trying a few different primers and look to the results you get and then try hard to stay with the same components that give you good results, be it with a chronograph and targets, or just target groups.
Check out this link,
http://www.chuckhawks.com/winchester_777_primers.htm
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