Nipples coming off

P

plumbernater

New member
I have a ruger old army and usaully when I have taken her out for a shooting session the nipples will split on the side and couse a jam till I shake the split fired nipple out. Is it the brand of nipples I use or what. Or am I just not holding my mouth right.
 
Beat me to it.

How about...

Never heard of "break-up" put so eloquently.

Seriously, it is more than likely the caps.
 
All jokes aside that is the nature of the current breed of caps since even the non magnum caps have been made hotter to ignite the subs. Irritating for us revolver shooters as they will blow apart even with no charge in the cylinder.

OK! I can't resist a joke. Probably puts you on Tresso's Christmas card list.
 
Jams

Yeah, trouble with jamming from split caps also with my Ruger OA. Today jammed from the Wonder Wad beneath the ball when charge busted part of wadding jammed between the cylinder and barrel throat. Not being a historical savvy guy on these firearms use in the 1800's I am thinking maybe the users had a very thin wad to protect the ball and caps that were less prone to explode apart on the nipple causing a jam jacking the next cylinder to battery. Anyone using the Wonder Wads try cutting the thickness in half to 1.)prevent jamming such as I experienced today and 2.) getting more powder in the hole?
 
Goffer

Welcome to the forum.

I have never used wads but am in the process of making some up. I read your post with great interest when you spoke of you ROA jamming up from wad remants.

Has this happened more than once?
 
Wad Jam

Doc Hoy

Thanks for the greeting Doc

per your inquiry about Wad Jam I experienced with my well used Ruger OA

No, it happended only the one time at my last session shooting the Ruger OA. It never happended when shooting a larger charge but my groupings were so wide with 35 grns so have reduced load to around 28 grains, do not know if that is a factor or coincidence. However in the case of a wad jam it only took a little more muscle to break the cylinder loose and dislodge the wad after picking at it with a plastic gun pick, so I suppose not a big thing unless shooting in a timed event which I do not. I do get frustrated with the busted caps jamming up the rotation of the cylinder, though I have always won out with a little patience, but once again not a good thing realibilty ways if time is a factor.
 
Goffer,

Thanks for the wink back.

I am going to proceed with wads but your input is welcome.

Have you chronied your ROA yet?


I am getting under 500 fps with 25 grains. Good groups but alarmingly slow.
 
Yes in hurts my nipples real bad. And my bad I did mean caps. My tenitus in my ears from shooting interfears with me hearing my thinking sometimes:) I have replaced one of my nipples on the OA awhile back I think in came from the hot loads I was using at that time. But the caps splitting is agrevating I was hoping someone might now a better made brand
 
Ruger OA Load

Doc Hoy

No do not own a chronograph so have no idea what the load is doing except that by lowering the charge the accuracy of my groups seemed to improve.


I have been advised that GOEX is best for accuracy, have no idea if that is true, but bought a can of it just the same. Also Triple 7. Presently shooting Pyrodex P. If GOEX is going to be more of a chore to clean it may be the last can of powder I ever buy. I have invested considerable amount of money for cleaning solvents and mineral oils and bore butter and etc. So far have had a lot of problems keeping rust out of the bottom of the cylinders. This last cleaning was better and also removed the nipples with a 5 mm socket all except one of course that was rounded off. I reckon it will stay in place for the duration until I am forced to "easy out" the plug and replace with one of those Treso nipples I have been hearing about on this forum. I put something called Buffalo Grease on the nipple threads and in the recess ports of the cylinder in hopes they would prevent the nipple from corroding into the cylinder.


But back to the subject of the forum, does squeezing the caps to prevent losing the cap prior to firing do any good with preventing jams after detonation? And how are shooters squeezing their caps used, with a pair of long nose pliers? I tried with my fingers and no way Jose' for this dude am I going to get a crimp in the itty bitty cap, matter of fact I lost a couple dropped on the ground trying like a fool to bend em. But I do not want a cap to blow in my hands either, those things throw sharpnel it appears.
 
The only thing that will keep caps from blowing apart is if the manufacturors go back to reducing the priming in the cap, fat chance. You might try some RWS1075 not the 1075+ they are not as bad except they are twice as expensive as CCI and Remington.
On cleaning the bottom of the chambers. I made a special jag that gets the patch to the bottom. Lacking this a q tip saturated with ballistol does a satisfactory job.
 
Denster + 1

Another technique is to get hold of some bottle brushes which have a diameter equal to about half an inch. Take the nipples out and run the brush through the empty nipple hole in the chamber. This also gets the gunk out of the nipple recess on the back of the cylinder. Do this while you are doing you end-of-shooting-day cleaning. I shoot my ROA more than any of my other pistols and the chambers look like new.
 
Unanswered part of question

Just curious how it's done. I haven't had to do any yet.

And how are shooters squeezing their caps used, with a pair of long nose pliers?
 
I try not to have to but when I do I just squeeze the mouth of the cap between my thumb and forefinger you only need about .003 of squish.
 
That is a problem without a resolution since the current production of caps are so much hotter, even the non magnum caps, that they split from the force of the priming in the cap. If you can find someone who sells RWS1075 not the 1075+ get some of those they will be twice as expensive but oh well.
 
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